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 Looks like meat is back on the menu boys 
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sportsdad60 wrote:
Perhaps PMB has a better cut of black walnut (recent) he would like to sell?

It will be show cased in the Parade of Homes in Kalispell, MT in Sept 2019. :)


What?! That one wasn't good enough?! I won't lie. It hurts. :bigsmile:

Couple of things... I tried to make sure that the most of the wood I PIF'd was bone dry, or under 10%. There were some big Doug Fir slabs that were a bit higher. (Sorry to the Doug Fir recipients, it was all that I had in the big pieces. I think they were at about 15%. ) The "new" Black Walnut logs have close to 20% MC.

The second part of the coupla things - I am genuinely not sure that I will be able to operate the mill until after some surgery and recovery.

Oh boy. I just realized that I may be permabanned by one of the Red Fellows who run this place if I don't complete a big project.
I see relative peace and quiet in WaGuns' near future if he follows through.


Sat Oct 13, 2018 7:06 pm
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PMB wrote:
sportsdad60 wrote:
Perhaps PMB has a better cut of black walnut (recent) he would like to sell?

It will be show cased in the Parade of Homes in Kalispell, MT in Sept 2019. :)


What?! That one wasn't good enough?! I won't lie. It hurts. :bigsmile:

Couple of things... I tried to make sure that the most of the wood I PIF'd was bone dry, or under 10%. There were some big Doug Fir slabs that were a bit higher. (Sorry to the Doug Fir recipients, it was all that I had in the big pieces. I think they were at about 15%. ) The "new" Black Walnut logs have close to 20% MC.

The second part of the coupla things - I am genuinely not sure that I will be able to operate the mill until after some surgery and recovery.

Oh boy. I just realized that I may be permabanned by one of the Red Fellows who run this place if I don't complete a big project.
I see relative peace and quiet in WaGuns' near future if he follows through.


I think the bigger, thicker piece will work just fine, seriously.
You had surgery! :whatthe: I missed that thread! I hope you heal quickly!

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Sun Oct 14, 2018 5:40 am
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Have not had surgery yet. Appointment tomorrow afternoon to find out the options.
Could turn into a "lazy" winter.


Sun Oct 14, 2018 8:09 am
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This one is going to take awhile. Check back in about a month!

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Sun Oct 14, 2018 2:07 pm
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Hahahaha holy shiite. Funny I started into my doug fir (pictured after 80 grit belt)............ended up at 220 grit with orbital. Now already hold my printer.

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Sun Oct 14, 2018 2:44 pm
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Sanded and in place. Will finish next year. There were some bug holes, and very interesting pattern.

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Sun Oct 14, 2018 6:02 pm
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Love it.
I'm partial to a reddish brown oil finish on Doug Fir. I also like to feel the grain, and not a big fan of the polyurethane or plastic top layer. The thick clear layers look so nice at the beginning, but a few years of kids driving their hot wheels or sliding their dishes across it leaves it with a nasty scratched up finish. There are ways to fix that, but I just opt for simple oil finish.


Sun Oct 14, 2018 6:07 pm
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PMB wrote:
Love it.
I'm partial to a reddish brown oil finish on Doug Fir. I also like to feel the grain, and not a big fan of the polyurethane or plastic top layer. The thick clear layers look so nice at the beginning, but a few years of kids driving their hot wheels or sliding their dishes across it leaves it with a nasty scratched up finish. There are ways to fix that, but I just opt for simple oil finish.



I am partial to Oils as well for finish, though with the bark on Live edges how do you keep that in place without a Poly or the like?

One of the Slabs i won has some really cool worm channels in the Live edge. The bark came off there and i really want to stabilize the bark on the opposite side as well as the Worm channels.

Idea's?

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Sun Oct 14, 2018 6:15 pm
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So now 3 sanded, the more I want to do. Each piece is some different treatment, each one requiring some special love technique. I will resand, yeah some stain.

I believed a fixatif spray or dilute varnish can be used on cleaned dusted edge.

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Sun Oct 14, 2018 6:26 pm
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Bark is like a hole in a school bus seat. People will pick at it when nobody is looking.


Sun Oct 14, 2018 11:10 pm
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Looks great Pablo!!!

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Tue Oct 16, 2018 4:34 am
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Shellac or lacquer are both relatively easy to apply, as well as repair (the new finish melts into the old and creates a solid bond). I like using both for furniture because they're easy to fix and it doesn't take a pro to make the fixes, the homeowner can do it themselves with pretty good success. However, shellac is vulnerable to alcohol, so if someone spills booze on it, it's going to show. Not so much with lacquer, plus it's tougher all around.

Both would help to keep the bark in place.

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Tue Oct 16, 2018 7:09 am
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Ordered these legs for my printer table: https://www.etsy.com/listing/274915922/ ... de-hairpin

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Tue Oct 16, 2018 6:09 pm
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Pablo wrote:
Ordered these legs for my printer table: https://www.etsy.com/listing/274915922/ ... de-hairpin

Nice! that's what I used for my RV Laptop table. They are very sturdy.

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Fri Oct 19, 2018 2:28 pm
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I agree with the lacquer for a finish, but which lacquer? Obviously, application of the piece may dictate (marine, hard use etc.) For me in general, notrocellulose based lacquer gives the best appearance. It has it's downsides though. It has a long outgassing period, and is fairly soft during this process. In addition it is not as UV resistant as other lacquer such as acrylic. I prefer the oily, deep look of it however. In addition, I like natural oil or clear stains. If you build something in Maple and stain it in Walnut, why not build in Walnut with a clear oil finish, unless you are reproducing a historical finish, or matching a new piece to existing pieces.
You can use an oil finish such as Watco and lacquer over it, but real care must be taken that ALL excess oil is removed, and that ample time is given for the oil to harden before applying sanding sealer and lacquer.
Note: lacquer is meant to be sprayed, not brushed. Have not verified, but my grandfather (a 4th generation woodworker) used to say that modern notrocellulose based lacquer was developed after WW2, when we had huge warehouses of gun cotton sitting around, and no one knew what to do with it. Eventually they found it would dissolve in acetone...lacquer! If anyone knows the truth of this, let me know.


Fri Oct 19, 2018 3:11 pm
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