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 1926 Model TT Restoration: Update 36 - Running Gear Test 
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MadPick wrote:
:bow:

This car's gonna run like a top when you're done, isn't it?!

Well, I’m sure hoping it runs! We will know in a couple of weeks!


Wed Mar 13, 2019 7:50 pm
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Nicely done

I picked my other friend with a model T up at the airport on Monday. His is a sedan, ‘27 I think he said. Last year they were made

Need to get the two of you together sometime



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Wed Mar 13, 2019 7:53 pm
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RocketScott wrote:
Nicely done

I picked my other friend with a model T up at the airport on Monday. His is a sedan, ‘27 I think he said. Last year they were made

Need to get the two of you together sometime



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That sounds like a good time to me, Scott! I’m in!


Wed Mar 13, 2019 7:58 pm
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I must have exceeded a thread size limit, because no more photos would post. Maybe a mod can combine these threads if that is not the case

Never mind, Madpick fixed it.


Last edited by Arisaka on Fri Mar 15, 2019 7:50 pm, edited 2 times in total.



Fri Mar 15, 2019 1:55 pm
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Running out of jobs until I get my radiator and gas tank. What I can do is fluid changes, which amount to engine, Warford transmission and differential. This is not too different from a modern car, except that a model T has no engine oil dipstick. Instead, it has these

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To get an accurate reading, you must make sure the petcocks are not plugged, so ramrod them with a coat hanger or something.

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The idea here is to keep the oil level between these two petcocks. I checked the existing oil level, and as you can see above it dropped out of the lower, but not the upper petcock. Perfect. If it was overfilled it would drip out of the upper; underfilled and it would not drip out of the lower. Here is the drain plug. Nothing new here. Drain the old oil first

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Then put in 4 quarts of 5W-30 here

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Then add oil slowly until it drips out of the top petcock.

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Next is the Warford transmission. A typical model T will not have a Warford. It is found mostly on the heavier duty Model TT trucks like this one. It gives you 6 speeds vs the 2-speed transmission in a standard Model T. Useful in hauling heavy loads up hills. Oil change here is like a differential. You check level using to top plug, like this

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Also full of oil, like the engine. Thank you Dad! You took good care of the old girl for me!! Some day your grandson will be taking care of her

Drain using the plug at the bottom of the transmission case, and fill with 85W-140 using the top plug again. All done.

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Last is the differential. The Model TT has a stronger worm drive differential, unlike the crown gear setup in the cars. This takes 600W gear oil. Thick stuff when fresh, but super thick when dirty. And blacker than Nancy Pelosi’s heart. It didn’t really drain. It more like pooped out.

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Here is the new stuff

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Chassis lubrication next time


Last edited by Arisaka on Fri Mar 15, 2019 7:51 pm, edited 1 time in total.



Fri Mar 15, 2019 2:08 pm
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Arisaka wrote:
I must have exceeded a thread size limit, because no more photos would post.


:bonghit:

I'm gonna suggest a respirator next time you're getting up close and personal with transmission fluid....

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Leave it cleaner than you found it.


Fri Mar 15, 2019 7:22 pm
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Went through the chassis from front to rear, lubing all service points.

Started with the front axle. This is the oil cup for the front axle spindle joints and the oil hole for the front spring hanger

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Grease cup on steering post bracket

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Grease cups are old time zerk fittings. You fill up the base with grease, and then fill up the cup

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Then you screw down the cup, which forces grease into the joint

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Lubed the fan, and the distributor. Next is the often forgotten steering gear box. It gets cleaned up and re-greased

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There are a couple grease cups on the front driveshaft bearing and universal joint. They are a bear to get to unless you pull out the seat and gas tank. So my dad replaced them with 90 degree zerks.

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Last stop is the rear axle. The axle bearings are lubed by jumbo sized grease cups.

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The rear spring hanger has an oil hole only

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There are several other lubrication points I didn’t bother to photograph. 35 locations in all. This chart was helpful

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Next up is building a foot throttle, and restoring some 90-year old Model T tools


Last edited by Arisaka on Thu Mar 28, 2019 6:33 am, edited 1 time in total.



Wed Mar 20, 2019 6:07 pm
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Holy Cannoli!

Every time I log on, I see movement on this great project, and you just got the thing!

I'm going to have to file a formal grievance with The Procrastinator's of America...

You're making all of us look bad...


Wed Mar 20, 2019 9:03 pm
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NWGunner wrote:
Holy Cannoli!

Every time I log on, I see movement on this great project, and you just got the thing!

I'm going to have to file a formal grievance with The Procrastinator's of America...

You're making all of us look bad...

I’m chipping away at her Steve! Want to drive the old girl this summer.


Wed Mar 20, 2019 9:30 pm
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Arisaka wrote:
NWGunner wrote:
Holy Cannoli!

Every time I log on, I see movement on this great project, and you just got the thing!

I'm going to have to file a formal grievance with The Procrastinator's of America...

You're making all of us look bad...

I’m chipping away at her Steve! Want to drive the old girl this summer.


Very, very, impressive, my friend!

Car show in Burien in mid-June...small scale...if you're not driving by then, maybe make some connections for parts, places to get things machined, etc., ... :thumbsup2:


Wed Mar 20, 2019 9:48 pm
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I love car shows! I think I will wander up there.


Wed Mar 20, 2019 10:06 pm
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I knew the radiator in my truck was sketchy. It used to overheat constanty. Dad put a water pump in the truck, and while that helped it didn’t fully solve the overheating problem. A factory Model T cooling system does not have a water pump. That’s the belt-driven water pump on the front fender.

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At the annual Early Bird swap meet in February, I picked up a used radiator for $60. This is always a gamble, as you can’t tell from looking if the radiator is any better than the piece of crap you already have.

So I took both radiators into a shop to have them tanked and leak tested. I was hoping they could make one good radiator from the pair. Turns out that they were both beyond repair. The swap meet radiator was the real deal factory item

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Unfortunately the tank was full of fatigue cracks and leaked like a sieve

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So, a re-core was not in the cards for this radiator

The radiator that was in the truck turned out to be, according to the shop guy, “some kind of Monkey Wards bullshit”. Aka, a low quality replacement part.

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Once the grease was cleaned off, you could see that the inlet neck was only 1.75 inch diameter, instead of 2 inches diameter. It was built out to the required 2ninches with exhaust pipe and bondo. Here is a pic

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The rest of the radiator was In sad shape, and not worth re-coring. Plus that would cost 400-600 bucks and there are no guarantees it wouldn’t blow out next month.

I don’t know what to make of this, but it’s a good example of how Model Ts were repaired using what was at hand. And since this is a nonpressurized system, it apparently worked.

Image

Did some poking around on the model T boards, and found that the way to go was a Bergs radiator. $900. Called the guy and he said he is back ordered. Not sure when I will get my radiator, so I’m pretty much on hold. Also waiting on a new gas tank, so I can mount that under the seat and run steel gas lines from the tank, to the fuel filter and low pressure fuel pump, and then to the carb.

Next up is building and installing a foot throttle, and replacing the floor boards.


Sat Mar 23, 2019 3:41 pm
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Instead of those funky large coolant hoses I use copper pipe and short connecting hoses for my Studebakers.


Sun Mar 24, 2019 12:52 pm
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hartcreek wrote:
Instead of those funky large coolant hoses I use copper pipe and short connecting hoses for my Studebakers.

Yes, that is also the Model T factory configuration for the water inlet. Two short sections of red hose with a steel water pipe in between. That’s what I will be using, and I will be deleting the water pump as the new radiator should provide sufficient cooling


Sun Mar 24, 2019 12:59 pm
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My radiator on the shelf has "ballard ratiator xx/xx/1962" on it. I wonder i they have a unconditional warranty on it? I'm not looking to sell btw, it's probably going infront of my v-8 60


Tue Mar 26, 2019 6:56 pm
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