I did the unthinkable. The impossible. I did what was out of the question. The inconceivable, the incredible, the unimaginable.
Well, it was, for 99.99% of the people out there with this problem, or who work on this problem.
I worked on the injector pump, myself. Refer back to a video that I posted earlier in this thread. The one person I know who was willing to crack open their IP and work on it themself. Meaning, without a whole shop full of specialized tools, reference charts, etc...
See everyone, everyone everyone who owns a diesel, with a DB2 pump... Every shop, every dealer... Everyone that I checked out, researched, even straight out asked.... Said that if the pump is not working you have to replace it. (300, used or ebay, up to 1800 new.) Because it is just chock full of 'secret' info! Everything inside has to be 'calibrated' perfectly. Then it has to be tested on secret 16 ton arcane machinery. Then all kinds of hexes chanted, goats sacrificed, etc... Or it will blow up, burn your truck down, maybe even cause a crossover between multiverses!
I looked at that video. Thought to myself, "self... That looks like that is probably what your problem is".
After I told myself to mind my own business, I thought, well if I take it apart and do screw it up... I am still in the place I am now... Having to replace it.
So, I gave it a go! I first took all the connections off of it, including the return line from the top...
Attachment:
IP 1.JPG
Never mind the angels in this shot, they were just trying to be helpful.
Then I took the top off the pump. (Here is where unicorns were supposed to die, and the sky fall...)
Attachment:
IP 2.JPG
As you can see, it is full of rust and crud.
There is a linkage, shaped like an upside down "L" in the bottom there. I ran a red line along the linkage. That linkage is supposed to slide freely forward and backward. In the direction of the red arrow to the left.
Attachment:
IP 3.JPG
That linkage was glued in place by all the crud. I simply slid it back and forth, forth and back, a couple dozen times. I kept that up, until I could slide it, and let go, and it would freely return.
Then I just buttoned it all back up. With a new fuel line on the top of it.
Attachment:
IP 4.JPG
Two other things I was concerned with were the leaky return lines, and the possibility that the batteries were not strong enough to turn the engine over fast enough.
The new return line on top of the IP took care of a large part of the leak.
I started up the camry, ran it over there, and put the jumpers from the camry to the truck. (My other truck won't start now. But it's because it needs a starter. LOL And yes, the camry is kind of small for that. But it has a brand new battery. And it was all I had to supplement the truck.)
Let the camry run for about ten minutes, connected that way, then it was time to try to start the truck.
Got in. Put in the key. Let the glow plugs cycle. Turned the key all the way... Engine turned over VERY fast... Turned over maybe 5 times, and boom! started right up!
I let it run for about 3 to 5 minutes, waiting for the 'lope' to smooth out... Then walked around and took that video of the tailpipe/smoke.
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_________________ -Jeff
How can I help you, and/or make you smile, today?
You are entitled to your opinion. You are not entitled to tell me what mine must be.
Do justice. Love mercy.
“I would rather have questions that can't be answered than answers that can't be questioned.” ~ Richard P. Feynman
Today was food delivery day. Delivering food to children and the elderly. I usually just take it easy the rest of the day, on these days. Today, I went and got some viton o-rings, afterward, but took it easy the rest of the day once I got home.
Tomorrow I am going to completely remove the fuel return system... Build a new one using this one as a model. And install all new o-rings, lines, and use actual screw type fuel injector clamps instead of those snap type that you use pliers to put on.
Hoping to eliminate the leaks in that system.
Also probably going to take the top off of the IP again, and this time, take the time to actually clean all that crud out of there. I only wanted to get it running, yesterday. Tomorrow I'll clean it up, to eliminate any other possible problems because of the crud.
I let it run for quite a while yesterday, then decided to use the tank switch and try the front tank. It continued to run.... Until it ran out of fuel. Switch apparently works fine. Front tank is borked. That's too bad. the front tank is the biggest tank. I'll be filling up more often until I get the problem worked out.
And yeah, I'm going to have to bleed the system again, to get it started., But that can be done before I button the system back up from replacing the return lines. In fact, that's why I decided to test the tank switch right then. Because I knew if it ran out of fuel... I'd know the front tank was bad, and having to bleed the system wouldn't bother me because I was about to take the injector caps off again, anyway.
In the fuel filter housing, there is a check valve. I'm pretty sure it is there to keep fuel from coming back out of the housing right there. It is the connection for the return fuel system. Well, mine lets the fuel flow out freely. That's why I lost so much fuel to the return line leak... Even though the truck wasan't running.
Good news, Rocket Scott gave me a filter and housing, and it has a check valve in it. I'll probably just swap them. While I am replacing the return lines anyway.
~~~
Ok, while it was running, I discovered a few things...
The shifter will shift into gears ok. Kind of stiff. And there is no indicator. But if you pay attention, you can tell when it falls into place.
But... The trans does absolutely nothing. No forward, no reverse, doesn't even feel like it is there.
Now, what I am hoping this is... Is low fluid. If the pan gasket leaks, then after sitting there for several years, the only fluid left is probably what is in the pan. I'll add some fluid and see if it starts to work.
~~~
In testing that, I was given a glimmer of hope on the brakes.
I had tied a rope to the brake pedal, so that while the engine was running, and the vacuum pump was producing vacuum to the brake booster... I could push the pedal down with my foot, then pull it back up, with the rope. I did that probably about a hundred times. Seemed like after a bit, it made a tiny difference, but I wasn't sure.
So, while testing the shifting stuff, I instinctively had my foot on the brake. When I was finished the final time, and put the lever back into park, and let my foot off the brake, the truck moved far enough, before being caught by the parking pawl in the trans... To let me know the brakes had been holding it in place while I tested the shifter.
This does give me hope. I am hoping that I will be able to just bleed the entire system, and get them working again.
It makes sense that if there is no other leak in the system other than the one at the back of the master cylinder, then I will only have to get the old fluid out of the system, and get the air that is now at the back of the MC bled down, in the doing of it.. And it should work.
~~~
One final thing.
There is another problem that some people have had with the injection pump. Or rather the system there.
That other electrical connection on the top there is a 'fast idle circuit' It controls a solenoid that is only open when the engine is cold. It allows extra fuel through.
What happens if it malfunctions is that if you push the pedal to say 2000rpm... the system takes off on you, and it surges to 3000rpm or more, all on it's own.
Yeah, mine is doing that. (And it quit once the engine was VERY warm.) Fortunately the solution for now is to just disconnect that electrical connection, and "nurse the idle' for a minute of so when it is cold.
Well, that's all the news what's fit to share for now.
Maybe I'll have a better report tomorrow or the next day.
_________________ -Jeff
How can I help you, and/or make you smile, today?
You are entitled to your opinion. You are not entitled to tell me what mine must be.
Do justice. Love mercy.
“I would rather have questions that can't be answered than answers that can't be questioned.” ~ Richard P. Feynman
Wed May 08, 2019 8:04 pm
MadPick
Site Admin
Location: Renton, WA Joined: Sun Mar 13, 2011 Posts: 51917
Real Name: Steve
Something that I have discovered along the way is that if this truck had a manual transmission, then if SHTF... I could probably, with the use of a drill, and a couple coat hangers, Or maybe a bicycle brake cable... And a nice hill or someone to push the truck... Get this thing started and running. Not even an EMP would keep that from happening.
And while everyone else would have all the abandoned cars drained of gasoline... I could still go around, and drain the oilpans and transmissions on those cars and use the used oil and ATF for fuel...
_________________ -Jeff
How can I help you, and/or make you smile, today?
You are entitled to your opinion. You are not entitled to tell me what mine must be.
Do justice. Love mercy.
“I would rather have questions that can't be answered than answers that can't be questioned.” ~ Richard P. Feynman
Wed May 08, 2019 10:05 pm
scorpion rider
Site Supporter
Location: 40 acres of 2A sanctuary Joined: Sun Apr 7, 2013 Posts: 919
It may smooth out with use, or at least run a tad better as it degums. New fuel solubulizing the old crud.
Neato documentation.
Quite likely that it will smooth out.
There are, though, a few more clicks and clacks in there when it is running, than I am comfortable with. We'll see...
~~~
Today's progress...
I replaced the fuel return system. Well, the part of it that is on top of the engine. LOL
Here are the tools and parts I needed, to start out with.
Attachment:
needed.JPG
That red handled pliers looking thing on the right is a set of "anvil" cutters I bought at ace hardware for about three bucks, more than 30 years ago. Made for trimming things in the garden. BEST tubing cutters EVER!!!! I can cut rubber washers out of rubber hoses with those things! They'll cut 10ga copper with ease. I have cut 2ga aluminum cable with them. I have had them completely apart and sharpened the blade three times now. They are still going strong! I used those for the rubber injector hose for this, of course.
The petroleum jelly. Funny story. I bought that on monday at wal mart. I asked an employee where I would find it. She said wait here. (I was using an electric cart.) She went and got that bottle and brought it to me.
When it was time to check out, the 20 something girl at the checkout picked it up and gave me a look like she had just caught me doing something disgusting. She asked me what I was going to use that for. I told her that I was going to use it to lube the o-rings on some diesel injectors. She looked back at the register, then turned back to me and asked, "Why did you get the baby smelling stuff?" Like she had caught me in a lie. I then told her that the other employee brought me that one, I hadn't chosen it. She just continued to look disgusted the entire time I was checking out and leaving. LOL
Some people's kids...
The pick was to get the old o-rings off.
The o-rings were bought separate from any kit.
5/8 wrench for removing the injector tops.
Vise grips for clamping the gas line down at the lift pump to keep the fuel from flowing.
And the hose clamps are fuel injector type. (I HATE those spring kind that you use pliers to remove and replace.) And the driver fits them, so I don't have to fiddle with a screwdriver.
~~~
When it came to taking off the injector caps, the front one on the passenger side was really weird. It was taller than the rest, and I couldn't figure out how to get the cap off. Almost cracked the cap, trying.
Finally figured out that the injector had an "extension" on top of it. When I took that extension off, the cap came off as easily as all the rest had.
Attachment:
extension.JPG
~~~
Once I had the lines off, as a unit, I laid them out.
Attachment:
before.JPG
And then used them as patterns to make the new ones.
Attachment:
after.JPG
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_________________ -Jeff
How can I help you, and/or make you smile, today?
You are entitled to your opinion. You are not entitled to tell me what mine must be.
Do justice. Love mercy.
“I would rather have questions that can't be answered than answers that can't be questioned.” ~ Richard P. Feynman
Thu May 09, 2019 6:22 pm
Arisaka
Site Supporter
Location: Tacoma Joined: Sat May 4, 2013 Posts: 6194
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