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 Look what followed me home! 
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Location: Nisqually Valley
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Ebay has a tester like this from many vendors for $80-90.



Thu May 16, 2019 4:23 pm
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Ok, so today I worked on the headlights. As usual, I didn't take many pictures.

I started by looking through the wiring diagrams to trace the wires, and find the colors at each junction, etc. Made my own crude wiring diagram by cutting and pasting from the diagrams. Coloring the wires, etc.
Attachment:
hlightwire.png

There is one wire that runs from the headlight switch to the dimmer switch, on the column. That is red with a yellow stripe. Then two wires run from the dimmer switch out to the headlights. Red with black stripe is the lows. Green with black stripe is the highs. That's pretty much the circuit, right there. No relays or anything else.

Since I don't have a printer, I then just drew an even more crude version, and carried that out with me. I also included the pinout for testing the headlight switch and it's connector, etc. (Even though I'd tested that before.)

What I found...
Attachment:
dim.JPG

Power from headlight switch to dimmer switch is fine. Only on, when switch is on. Doesn't appear to be any grounding issues, etc.

Power out to the headlights: (Headlights do work now.)

Red line out to the lights seems to be fine.

Green line out to the lights... Works. But, back testing this line, I find a grounding problem. Not sure where. Just going to eliminate this line from the dimmer, out to the headlights, and replace with a new line.

So there is the headlight system. Tested and working, and ready to be upgraded. In the upgrade, I am considering just replacing both of those lines all the way from the dimmer switch out to the two relays I will put in.

~~~

I'll get to that wiring system, with my own diagram, later. First, the bad news...

I took the batteries out, to get easier access to the backs of the headlight housings and to do my tests. While I had those out I decided to take out the headlight housings, and the trim and all that, just to get an idea of what I am looking at for repairs.

The housings are going to have to be replaced. Can't be repaired.

*Both are cracked all over, so badly I'm surprised they haven't just fallen apart.
*There is a large chunk broken out of the drivers side housing. In one corner, where the housing mounts to the truck.
*Two mounting clips were missing. One was broken but barely holding on. And I lost one in the gravel and mud.
*They had the skankiest smelling water in them you can imagine. Well, you might be able to imagine it if you have ever smelled 20 year old gasoline/water mix that has been in a gas tank that long. I have smelled that. Took 4 years for the smell to begin to dissipate where it had been spilled. I kid you not. Gag a maggot, that stuff will... This smelled just like it. And I spilled some on my pants leg, so yeah, I'm still smelling it. LOL
*There is missing hardware. Missing screws. Missing bolts and nuts. Etc.
*There are large, complicated metal brackets of some sort, that are rattling around loose inside the housings.
Yeah, pretty much not worth trying to save them.

Probably should have just left them alone and pretended I had real headlights until I could get ahold of replacements. LOL

~~~

Now, I'll show a simple diagram I drew, to show how you install relays into an existing system, to take the load of the headlights off the switches and system.
Attachment:
basic.png

There are two relays. One for the high beams one for the low. Run a red wire from the dimmer to one of the relays. A green wire from the dimmer to the other relay. What happens is that that power, operates the relay. The relay is essentially a heavy duty switch. Once signaled, it closes it's inner switch, and lets power through that switch, on larger wires, directly from the battery to the headlights.

That is the standard way to set up relays in a headlight system.

If you want more of an explanation of how the relays work, just ask. Or google. LOL


I have decided to make a change in this basic system. The reason is that the way the dimmer works, either the brights are on, or the dims are on. They are not both on at the same time. I want only the lows to be on when I have it on low. But when I switch on the high beams, I want the lows to stay on.

To do that, I am going to add a line with a diode in it, that goes between the power that goes to the switch side of the high relay, and the switch side of the low relay.
Attachment:
basicd.png

With the diode in there, when the lows are on, no power can be fed back through that, to the high beam system.

But when the high beams are on, that green wire will not only switch the relay to the high beams, but it will also switch the low relay, causing the low relay to feed power to the low beams as well.

The only concern I have with this is that the low side of the dimmer switch will be back fed. I don't think that will be a problem, but you never know.

To get rid of that problem I could put in a second diode so that the power can only go one direction there. To the relay, and no back to the dimmer switch.

Or I might just eliminate the diodes all together and use a third relay to do the job, instead. If I do the third relay, I'll draw something up to show how I did that...


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How can I help you, and/or make you smile, today?

The problem with being on social media, is that you know too many people that you don't know.

Joy is not a feeling. It is a strength. Some people are stupid, that's all there is to it. (And sometimes that stupid person is me/you.) Sometimes you just have to let stupid people be stupid. Don't let stupid steal your joy.

Holding onto unforgiveness and resentment is like drinking poison and expecting that other person to die. Anger will eat you up.


Sat May 18, 2019 10:13 pm
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This is what the front of the truck looks like right now, LOL

Attachment:
barelights.JPG


Looks like there is a trip to the junkyard in my future. :bigsmile:


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How can I help you, and/or make you smile, today?

The problem with being on social media, is that you know too many people that you don't know.

Joy is not a feeling. It is a strength. Some people are stupid, that's all there is to it. (And sometimes that stupid person is me/you.) Sometimes you just have to let stupid people be stupid. Don't let stupid steal your joy.

Holding onto unforgiveness and resentment is like drinking poison and expecting that other person to die. Anger will eat you up.


Sun May 19, 2019 12:55 pm
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Hitching a ride to town with a friend today.

I have a couple of diesel shops in mind to stop at.

Hoping that I will be able to find a used injector line. Only need one, but need the full line.

Plus the fittings... And then I'll try to make up my own injector tester.
Attachment:
injtester.JPG

Checked out the vids and pages that I could find, or were shown... About building your own tester.

One thing in common for the ones that call for a bottle jack like this, as a starting point... They all call for doing some kind of work to the top nut, and to the pipe, then putting the top nut back on.

But I've thought a little more out of the box. I don't think I actually need that top nut. And because I don't need the top nut, I don't need to alter it. As in having to thread something. Or weld something. Or both.

I think I can either replace that center pipe with a longer one, or I can cut the housing down some, and use a coupling on top of the pipe.

The housing has zero pressure on/in it. It simply holds the fluid. The pipe is where all the pressure occurs.

I can put a coupling on the pipe, then use adapters down to the size of the fittings I will use. It WILL hold the pressure that way. If it wouldn't, this bottle jack would, itself, explode. I may not be an engineer, but I am a bit smarter than the average idjit. And some things are obvious once you take them apart...

As for the housing, cut it down some, and if the coupling doesn't quite reach it, use a thick piece of plastic, or a washer or something to shim between them. The point is not to hold the housing in place, but to seal it from leaking over. I can jbweld the housing in place, that's no biggie. I just don't want the fluid to be pouring over the top.

For that matter, you see that little bump on the side of the pipe, down at the bottom right side? That's not the pipe. That is a screen behind it. That screen is poked into a hole in the base. That screen keeps dirt from entering that hole. That hole is where the fluid goes into the base, to get pumped into the pipe at pressure.

I could take the screen out. Drill the hole bigger. Thread the hole. Then plumb a fluid supply directly to the hole.

But I think it's going to be easier to just epoxy the housing in place, then figure out a way to seal the top so it doesn't flow over. That could, of course also be as easy as getting the housing and the coupling as close as possible, and then jbwelding that joint, as well.

Anyway, today, trying to get an injector line that will fit my injectors, and some fittings and the gauge, etc...


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How can I help you, and/or make you smile, today?

The problem with being on social media, is that you know too many people that you don't know.

Joy is not a feeling. It is a strength. Some people are stupid, that's all there is to it. (And sometimes that stupid person is me/you.) Sometimes you just have to let stupid people be stupid. Don't let stupid steal your joy.

Holding onto unforgiveness and resentment is like drinking poison and expecting that other person to die. Anger will eat you up.


Mon May 20, 2019 10:48 am
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Bought a gauge that goes to 5000, a while back. To use when I build my pop tester.

Should have bought one that goes to 500, first.

Not ready to build the pop tester, just yet, but I did a compression test today.

Thing is, my compression tester only goes to 300. That's not near enough for a diesel.

Not even sure if 500 would have been enough, but it would have been better than 300.

Removed the 300 gauge from my compression tester and replaced it with the 5000.

Did the test, taking pics of the gauge every time it reached it's peak.I figured that as difficult as it is to read the gauge for numbers smaller than 1000... Maybe the pics would help.

Well, the gauge went pretty much to 500, almost every time. But I still couldn't be sure.

And my camera being what it is, the pics were absolutely worthless. So I really don't know much more than I knew yesterday.



The only bright side is that it was obvious that none of them would be below 300.

But not knowing what the real spread was, is almost worthless. If most go to say 490, but a couple go as far down as 300, then I have a problem. Right now, I still have no idea...

I'll get another gauge. One that reads 500 or maybe 600. Probably some time toward the end of next week. Then I'll do the compression test again.


Right now, I am just reminding myself to be happy none of them were zero! LOL

The second glow plug back on the driver's side, was wet. (You remove the GPs to test the compression, since there are no spark plugs.) And the third one back on the passenger side. Those were the two that also had the lowest compression, I believe.

The third one back on the driver's side was only finger tight. I recently replaced these myself, and I am positive I tightened all of them. Made double sure, when I put them back in, today. Also, recently got some more antiseize, (I was all out, before.), and this time I put that on the threads of the glow plugs.


What I guess I do know now, is that it is unlikely that the running problems are because of compression issues.

I'll be glad when I can do the test again, and be more sure of it.


Didn't get any pics that were worth posting.

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How can I help you, and/or make you smile, today?

The problem with being on social media, is that you know too many people that you don't know.

Joy is not a feeling. It is a strength. Some people are stupid, that's all there is to it. (And sometimes that stupid person is me/you.) Sometimes you just have to let stupid people be stupid. Don't let stupid steal your joy.

Holding onto unforgiveness and resentment is like drinking poison and expecting that other person to die. Anger will eat you up.


Fri May 31, 2019 9:36 pm
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Made a video today of what it runs like while cold.

It's not just a "rough idle". It's a loping idle. And the lope never goes completely away, but the hotter it gets, the less it lopes.

The smoke is white, not blue. And it smells acrid. The kind of stuff that makes you cough. Not sweet. So it's fuel, not coolant.

The white smoke never really goes away, no matter how well it gets warmed up.

I put that clear tube on there, in a loop like that, intentionally. This is so that if there were bubbles incoming to the fuel filter, they would show up at the upper part of that loop. I will put the line back to the way it was before, when I am finished.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fk3OqTYQB4o

I am also going to be moving that line, and/or another clear line, to different positions around the top of the engine there, for the same reason. To see if air is entering the fuel system anywhere.

Air getting into the system, is the leading cause of white smoke of that type.



As I said in another post, by the end of this week, I will have a better gauge, and will do a better compression test. I don't feel like I can move forward until I am sure of the compression readings.


I located the timing mark on the injection pump today. It is located where the body of the pump meets the gear covering on the front of the engine. It has been ground mostly away on the body of the pump. But I think I located a bit of a remnant of it. If I am correct the pump is sitting very slightly retarded. Retarded timing on the injection pump is the second most likely cause of that white smoke.


The extreme lope in the idle, I am not sure of. But I think it is possible that it is because of the injectors.


Tomorrow, I am going to TRY to go to the junkyard and get some headlight housings, the gear shift indicator assembly, and possibly another injector pump. And whatever else I see while I am there.

On the way to or from, I am going to try to get a part welded, so that I can get my injector pop tester built.


If I can get the tester built... I'll test the injectors that Scott gave me. If they are anywhere close to matched, I'll remove mine, and install those.If they aren't matched, I'll remove mine, then make an executive decision about which set to put back in. I'll tear the other set apart, to get the parts needed to make a complete set of matched injectors. Then I'll install the matched set.

If I get the IP tomorrow, I'll clean it up. Take it apart as far as I dare, and check the operation of a couple different valves.

Before I replace mine with it, I'll get the work done on the injectors, and the rest of that system. If it still lopes and smokes, I'll try changing the timing on the IP. If that doesn't fix it, I'll just replace the IP.


Hopefully, I'll have better news by next weekend.

It's nice that it starts up so easily now. (I think the problem WAS that it was getting air intrusion. But I have that all sealed up now. The clear lines for testing will probably prove that.)

But I still don't feel like I can take it even out of the driveway yet.

_________________
-Jeff

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How can I help you, and/or make you smile, today?

The problem with being on social media, is that you know too many people that you don't know.

Joy is not a feeling. It is a strength. Some people are stupid, that's all there is to it. (And sometimes that stupid person is me/you.) Sometimes you just have to let stupid people be stupid. Don't let stupid steal your joy.

Holding onto unforgiveness and resentment is like drinking poison and expecting that other person to die. Anger will eat you up.


Sun Jun 02, 2019 7:21 pm
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I started another thread on a diesel forum.

https://www.oilburners.net/threads/my-build-thread.85639/#post-1025066

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-Jeff

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How can I help you, and/or make you smile, today?

The problem with being on social media, is that you know too many people that you don't know.

Joy is not a feeling. It is a strength. Some people are stupid, that's all there is to it. (And sometimes that stupid person is me/you.) Sometimes you just have to let stupid people be stupid. Don't let stupid steal your joy.

Holding onto unforgiveness and resentment is like drinking poison and expecting that other person to die. Anger will eat you up.


Mon Jun 03, 2019 7:57 am
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Ok, I finally got the injector 'pop' tester built. Got the bugs, (leaks. LOL), worked out of it. And got my replacement injectors tested.

Gotta say thank you once again to Rocket Scott, for the injectors! They all tested out good. Strange spray pattern on a couple of them, but I think that will get better as they get used.

All popped at 1800 to 1900 pounds of pressure.

I've already shown the bottle jack that I started with.

Well, I was wrong about the top nut, and the pipe. Turns out the pipe is some sort of strange Chinese "in-house-only" thread. The pipe is neither 3/4" nor 1". The closest thread to what you see there is something like 31mm by 1.25. That... is too loose, to use.

So, it was back to doing something with the nut that came off of it.

Here is what I did.

Attachment:
test2.png

Top left is the "nut" with a 3/4" to 1/4" black pipe adapter. Top right is the adapter dropped in.

Bottom left is the adapter welded on. Bottom right is the whole thing turned over.



I decided to have a shop weld it. Took the two pieces to a fabrication shop in Sultan,. Next to the Mc Donalds. They said 25 bucks, and come back tomorrow, because all their welders had taken the day off.

I came back 2 days later. They STILL hadn't welded it. So I just gave them a disappointed look, and asked for the parts back.

Took them instead to a shop in Monroe. "Dean's Specialty Welding". On Tye street. Guy met me at the door, after seeing me drive up and park. (And make my way slowly to the building. LOL I don't walk so good any more.)

I showed him what I wanted done, and he said "SURE! Let's do it!". After he had welded it, I asked him "how much"? He said, 5 bucks. I gave him the 25 that I had in my pocket instead. (What I was going to pay the other shop.) Both of us were very happy with the outcome! I'll go back there again, if I ever need anything else welded. (I could have welded this myself. But I wouldn't trust my own welding for holding this kind of pressure.)


Now, look at that bottom right again. I took the pic in such a way that you can see the channel cut into the side, in the threads. The purpose of that channel is... If the hydraulic oil somehow makes it up past the seal on the bottom lip of the piston that rides in that pipe, (the piston is what pushes up and picks up what you are trying to raise.), that channel will allow that fluid to be pushed out of the pipe and back into the reservoir.

Well, I removed the piston. I am doing this without the piston in the pipe. If that channel remains, I'll just be pumping the fluid from the pipe, into the reservoir all day long. So, when it was time to put that nut back on, I filled in the entire "moat" you can see between the adapter fitting, and the top nut... With JBWeld. Now, that took care of that leak, and it also gave me extra assurance that the welded connection wouldn't leak. If I ever have to take this apart, I'll be able to break that bond. But it isn't going to break on it's own, or leak from the pressure.



The hole in the side of the body, that had a rubber plug in it...

I tapped that hole out to 1/8" NPT. Then installed a street elbow. This doesn't gat any pressure at all. It just gives me a way to hang a bottle of some kind, with diesel fuel in it, and let the fuel run down into the body of the jack and it then gets pumped through the injector. I then sealed around that with JBWeld.
Attachment:
test5.JPG




The hardest part to find was the adapter that would fit the steel injector line, to a standard pipe thread.

This tiny part, cost me 14 dollars after shipping and tax! icon_eek It goes from 1/8" NPT to 12mm x 1.5.

The first time I ordered it, they sent me a 12mm by 1.25. Yeah, almost, but no ceegar! But the first one had a chamfer on the 12mm side. That was a good thing. The new one didn't have that. The end of the steel line, is shaped like a cone. It has to sit down inside the chamfer, to seal.

Attachment:
test3.png


The one on the left is the right size, but has no chamfer. The one on the right, has the chamfer, but is not the right size.

I used an ordinary countersink bit, to put in the chamfer. (Ok, to put in the countersink. LOL)

The top left is the pic of both, in their original form. The top right is after I countersunk the fitting. The bottom is the flare that has to fit into the countersink.


Now, here is the fitting, screwed onto the steel line, without the countersink, (top), and with the countersink. (bottom.)
Attachment:
test4.JPG


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-Jeff

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How can I help you, and/or make you smile, today?

The problem with being on social media, is that you know too many people that you don't know.

Joy is not a feeling. It is a strength. Some people are stupid, that's all there is to it. (And sometimes that stupid person is me/you.) Sometimes you just have to let stupid people be stupid. Don't let stupid steal your joy.

Holding onto unforgiveness and resentment is like drinking poison and expecting that other person to die. Anger will eat you up.


Thu Jun 13, 2019 5:46 pm
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And here is the tester, all bolted down, and the last of the extra injectors on it, to be tested.
Attachment:
test6.JPG


Tomorrow I will swap the injectors. Being careful to keep the old ones in order.

I want to test them, as well, to get a better picture of what was going on inside this engine.


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-Jeff

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How can I help you, and/or make you smile, today?

The problem with being on social media, is that you know too many people that you don't know.

Joy is not a feeling. It is a strength. Some people are stupid, that's all there is to it. (And sometimes that stupid person is me/you.) Sometimes you just have to let stupid people be stupid. Don't let stupid steal your joy.

Holding onto unforgiveness and resentment is like drinking poison and expecting that other person to die. Anger will eat you up.


Thu Jun 13, 2019 5:50 pm
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I nominate you WaGuns Professor

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If it has Tits, An Engine, or a Point of Ignition, I'll probably be willing to have a look.


Thu Jun 13, 2019 6:38 pm
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Jeff that’s pretty awesome. I don’t like to give advice b-cuz it normally ends badly for me but just for fun....I know that old girl fairly well. Notice when you rev her up a bit she kinda smooths out?

Take her out and put her under load. Just once. Real quick. You might be surprised.


Thu Jun 13, 2019 6:44 pm
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Chains wrote:
I nominate you WaGuns Professor

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Well, it's not quite radios made out of coconuts, but I have been nominated several times as the one most likely to survive after an apocalypse. LOL

dan360 wrote:
Jeff that’s pretty awesome. I don’t like to give advice b-cuz it normally ends badly for me but just for fun....I know that old girl fairly well. Notice when you rev her up a bit she kinda smooths out?

Take her out and put her under load. Just once. Real quick. You might be surprised.

That's in the plan.

I just want to take care of the few things that I can, before doing so. Just wanting a bit more peace of mind.

If I didn't have the injectors I'd probably just go ahead and try it now. But I do have the injectors and a few other things to do, so I'll go ahead and do them.

My gut tells me that changing the injectors is going to help. Then possibly timing the injection pump.

Should get the new headlight housings tomorrow as well.

I hope to be driving it by sometime next week.

Won't matter, today or next week. I can make one test drive, then it'll probably sit until next month, when I'll have fuel budget to start driving it.

_________________
-Jeff

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How can I help you, and/or make you smile, today?

The problem with being on social media, is that you know too many people that you don't know.

Joy is not a feeling. It is a strength. Some people are stupid, that's all there is to it. (And sometimes that stupid person is me/you.) Sometimes you just have to let stupid people be stupid. Don't let stupid steal your joy.

Holding onto unforgiveness and resentment is like drinking poison and expecting that other person to die. Anger will eat you up.


Thu Jun 13, 2019 7:11 pm
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Yesterday, it rained, so I sorted tools, instead.

Found out I didn't even have the right size socket for the injectors anyway. I was sure I did.

So I went and got the socket.



Today, I replaced the injectors. New copper washers, new caps, etc. No leaks. No air intrusion. Still runs exactly the same.

Only difference that I saw, was that the smoke appeared darker today. At limes it was like streams of black smoke mixed into the white.

Still a very heavy lope when cool. Lope mostly goes away when well warmed up. But there is this loping rumble/shudder that you can feel if you run it at higher revolutions. Kind of like the lope has turned instead into a much longer lope.


The old injectors are "E" injectors. I'll test them tomorrow.

All of them were very easy to remove. Took quite a crack to break them loose, but once loose, they all could be spun by fingers.

Came right out. None stuck. All had their copper washers on them.

3 had carbon. But ALL of them were wet. Meaning the entire body of the injector was wet. The carbon was also wet and wiped right off.




So now I know that the problem is not air intrusion.

It is not injectors.

It is not compression.



As I said, tomorrow I am going to test the old injectors anyway. I just want to know what kind of shape they are in.


Then I'll try to get the old truck started, so I can get it out of the way.

Then I'll load up plenty of coolant, oil, and atf, and drive this one to a level spot, so I can check all the fluid levels and make them right.

If it doesn't show difficulty in the trans, and the brakes work right, then I might take it for a drive up the highway a few miles and see what happens.


If all that goes well, I'll have some more data. HOW it runs and drives. What kind of power does it have? Does it stumble? Does the tranny shift right? Etc.


All other things being equal, on monday I may try changing the timing on the injection pump and see what happens.

I can't start driving it to town and such, though, until I finally figure out that smoke. Can't be driving around leaving a cloud of smoke everywhere.


The headlight housings did get here yesterday.

I'll start working on all the wiring next week, regardless of whether I get it on the road yet or not.

Also, the panel that the headlights are mounted into, is broken on the driver's side. That's why it was just kind of hanging there loose.

Looks like someone tried to fix it with fiberglass body repair. They didn't get it thick enough, and it just got 'wallered out'. I'll make a pattern in cardboard from the passenger side. Flip that. Cut it out of some tin I have, and rivet or screw that onto the driver's side. That should give me a solid plate to mount the light to.


Also notice the vacuum canister. It's under the battery on the driver's side. It's badly rusted, and the side is caved in. I have to assume that it is leaking, and probably has been, for a while. Now I am wondering if that is part of the problem with the transmission.

I will probably just get some PVC pipe, and make my own canister. Set into the exact same place the old tin can canister was set, at the factory... It'll probably outlast the truck.

Or maybe make one out of a propane bottle or something.

Before anyone mentions it, the engine lope isn't because of a vacuum problem. This is a diesel. It doesn't create vacuum.

There is a vacuum pump set on the top of the engine that is run from the serpentine belt. That vacuum runs things like the brake booster, and the cruise control.

I don't know if there is anything about the transmission that needs that vacuum, but that wouldn't surprise me.

And I don't know if there is any kind of control on the engine that needs vacuum, and could therefore be causing the lope and smoke. I'll continue researching.

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Sat Jun 15, 2019 8:20 pm
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I second the Waguns Professor remark. Is that Bamboo and a coconut i see in that test setup?
You are the Man Selador. :bow:

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Sat Jun 15, 2019 8:36 pm
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The E4OD is electronically controlled. No vacuum modulator. The vac pump is for the brake booster, cruise control, and to make the blend doors easier to operate in the HVAC system

My vacuum pump went out on my drive up to Nanaimo two weeks ago. I drove all the way back this morning without a working brake booster. Tomorrow I’ll pull it and take it back to autozone for a swap (lifetime warranty). While I’m in there I’ll check for the vacuum reservoir. I can’t remember if the van has one or not. My gas truck had one that rusted out so I went without for years. Finally replaced it and didn’t notice a difference. There’s only a couple odd situations where the gas engine doesn’t provide enough vacuum to power everything. On the diesel the vac pump runs continuously so there’s not much need for the reservoir. The brake booster itself is supposed to hold enough for a few brake applications and has a check valve in case there’s a leak in the rest of the system

White smoke is probably coolant but it could also just be moisture in the pipes from sitting. My Peterbilt blows loads of white smoke when it gets back on the road after sitting on a job site working the crane and mostly idling. Maybe getting it out for a long drive would blow everything out


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Sat Jun 15, 2019 9:26 pm
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