I have seen it milky or clear. No I do not pay for it. My dad likes it so when the propellant is all gone and he is frustrated and pulls out a new can I poke the old can with a nail and dribble it into a solvent safe plastic bottle. I have been using it to lubricate the motors in my pellet stove for two deckades but only after the alcohol has evaporated. Yes it even is on my ar.
although I have been told by internet armchair commandos that I shouldn't, I have used WD-40 for years to displace the water on gun parts after I remove them from the rinse tank (post bluing). Never had a problem.
It is also great for getting an engine with wet ignition to start, used it quite a few times when I used to go mud bogging
as for the clarity, the WD-40 I use is usually milky, I think that is the norm (before shaking it up).
as for loosening a rusty bolt, I use heat and candle wax for that
First, a disclaimer: I always have WD40 in the garage... but Kroil and others are used for specific projects.
I always felt WD40 evaporated or degraded too quickly to be anything other than a quick fix of something that would then be addressed with a better solvent/lubricant later. Almost always use it for breaking something free quickly or removing gunk/old grease/oil.
I looked around a bit on the interwebz. WD-40 AU claims that colder weather can cause some of the corrosion inhibitors to separate. A good shake should put it back in good order.
hartcreek wrote:I have seen it milky or clear. No I do not pay for it. My dad likes it so when the propellant is all gone and he is frustrated and pulls out a new can I poke the old can with a nail and dribble it into a solvent safe plastic bottle. I have been using it to lubricate the motors in my pellet stove for two deckades but only after the alcohol has evaporated. Yes it even is on my ar.
I don't recall PMB saying WD-40 was the best--pretty sure he claimed fairly quickly there are better products for specific situations, but that in his (and many other's) professional craft trade opinion, it's a reasonable 'fits-all' solution around the homestead. The milky content was his main concern/question.
I've seen it milky and clear; per a WD-40 product rep it will happen during static (unused) storage at certain temps. SHAKE WELL has been on the product since the 50s for a reason. They won't say what the formula is; I've been in a chemistry lab that has sampled it among many other chemicals and they've narrowed it down to a few possibilities. WD-40 will not conform nor deny if the lab got it correct.
Being as the first use for it was to prevent redox corrosion of the Atlas missles (hence the original name Rocket Chemical Company) it makes a great tool cleaner and rust preventer in the service truck boxes. I have quite a few cans of it around and consider myself a pro fesh null craft trader too.
WD-40 is great for cleaning firearms, especially semi-autos like Glocks and ARs that tend to get more carbon fouling in the action, and that can handle being wet with solvent. I just hose down the dirty areas, maybe let it soak for a minute, and blow everything off with compressed air. That method removes most fouling, and as long as you blow all the excess out it doesn't cause any of the issues people worry about with WD-40. I re-lube with gun oil afterwards. Of course you can do the same thing with kerosene, but WD-40 is convenient and works well.
It's also an excellent cutting oil for machining aluminum.
Using it as a gun lube is a mistake, but I think most people have gone past that now. But IMO, the total fear of it and the "never never use WD-40!" attitude some have is just as much of a mistake, and both are based in ignorance of how to use something correctly.
` WD40 is hydroscopic, meaning it absobs moisture. This is what the OP is seeing in his jug. It is best used on metals as an initial solvent, wiped off and replaced with a true oil. I use synthetic motor oil on most gun surfaces
I may have, cough cough uhm, used it as bait many years back when it way legal. Seriously, setting up a bear or cougar kill zone, WD40 is the go to. Spraying on items to get them out in the open works absolute wonders. Much easier to pack around and helluva lot cleaner than using tuna in oil and getting the oils on you and having to pack the tuna tins out.
These days I only use it for quick hinge lubing, or wiping down the rifle before I go out in the woods as that's not considered baiting.
Capn Blood wrote:` WD40 is hydroscopic, meaning it absobs moisture. This is what the OP is seeing in his jug. It is best used on metals as an initial solvent, wiped off and replaced with a true oil. I use synthetic motor oil on most gun surfaces
It is not hygroscopic and does not absorb moisture. The milky look is normal and happens at certain temperatures and heat cycles.
Thanks. I do have tight nuts and a rusty tool. Think that's why my wife left. Give it a shot, or two. I'll be sure to get the man size pressure pack. Good gravy, I could make comments all day on this ad. hahaha. No way that's real!