|
|
|
It is currently Fri Apr 19, 2024 3:30 am
|
Help me get my Bronco started.
Author |
Message |
Stokes
Site Supporter
Location: Oly Joined: Thu Oct 4, 2012 Posts: 1341
|
Hey Guys, I've had this 1988 Bronco for 15 years, having gotten it from a buddy of mine that was having issues. I doubt I've put 1000 miles on it. Before he sold it to me, he had done tons and tons of work, including having the whole drivetrain, including the axles, rebuilt. All of that stuff has less than 10K miles on it. But, I haven't driven it now in 7 years. I had it parked in a carport, and during that time, my dirtbag brother started to 'part' it out for shit he needed for his truck. Little stuff, mostly, but he did pull the distributor out. I think I've gone thru and replaced everything he stole, and dropped a new distributor in. I did change the fuel filter, and while I had that out, I jumpered the fuel pump and drained all the old gas out and put five gallons of fresh in. But, I'm at the point that I'm getting crank, but no fire. I'm not even getting a cough. I have pressure at the fuel rail, and the plugs get wet. I have spark to the spark plugs. There is plenty of compression. I'm guessing now that I'm more than just one tooth off on distributor. I think I got it right, but I'm failing to see why I can't get this thing to fire. I would think that even if I was off, I'd at least get a cough, but I'm getting nothing. I also am getting myself confused (grasping at straws) on firing order (5.8L), but the firing order my dumbass brother left on the distributor cap matches at least one of the firing orders I've seen online. But, I've seen another that might possibly the right order. I've not tried that one yet. Anyone have any good ideas?
|
Sat May 29, 2021 9:51 am |
|
|
usrifle
Site Supporter
Location: RENTON Joined: Fri Mar 25, 2011 Posts: 20771
Real Name: John
|
Start over with the distributor making sure it was dropped in at the proper position. Then make sure of the firing order with the wires. If it has spark, fuel and air at that point, it will run.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
_________________ Mr. Q wrote: so basically, if you have to smoke some asshole, make sure they become fertilizer and then Bounce? got it.
Guntrader wrote: Huh, maybe I was an asshole.
NRA Member/RSO SAF 5 Year Donor GOA Member
|
Sat May 29, 2021 9:56 am |
|
|
Stokes
Site Supporter
Location: Oly Joined: Thu Oct 4, 2012 Posts: 1341
|
Thats the diagram I used, including firing order. And, I've re-dropped it a few times, just because I'm second guessing myself.
I just don't get how I'm not even getting a cough. I've been 180 degrees out before and gotten a cough. Finding one cyclinder out of eight to hit spark and fuel at the same time isn't normally too tough.
|
Sat May 29, 2021 9:59 am |
|
|
mcyclonegt
Site Supporter
Location: West Olympia Joined: Mon May 28, 2012 Posts: 6817
Real Name: Matt
|
I know these engines well and live close by. I can come by Tuesday or Wednesday and see if we can get her going.
_________________ "I'm Hub McCann. I've fought in two World Wars and countless smaller ones on three continents. I led thousands of men into battle with everything from horses and swords to artillery and TANKS! I've seen the headwaters of the Nile, and tribes of natives no white man had ever seen before. I've won and lost a dozen fortunes, KILLED MANY MEN! And loved only one woman, with a passion a FLEA like you could never begin to understand. That's who I am. NOW, GO HOME, BOY!"
"I know not with what weapons World War III will be fought, but World War IV will be fought with sticks and stones". Albert Einstein 1947
|
Sat May 29, 2021 10:02 am |
|
|
Selador
Site Supporter
Location: Index Joined: Thu Aug 23, 2012 Posts: 12963
Real Name: Jeff
|
mcyclonegt wrote: I know these engines well and live close by. I can come by Tuesday or Wednesday and see if we can get her going. Where IS that freaking LIKE button? Having a second set of eyes and hands, makes a world of difference. Even if that extra set knows nothing specific, just has a general understanding. Seriously, I don't know how many times I have had a friend over, and said friend was asking some of the stupidest questions. But something they said, jogged a brain cell or 7 in my head, and helped me to figure it out. So much the better when it is someone who actually knows what they are doing... Thank you Matt, for that offer of help. This is one of the things that makes this forum great!
_________________ -Jeff
How can I help you, and/or make you smile, today?
You are entitled to your opinion. You are not entitled to tell me what mine must be.
Do justice. Love mercy.
“I would rather have questions that can't be answered than answers that can't be questioned.” ~ Richard P. Feynman
|
Sat May 29, 2021 10:15 am |
|
|
Jeffro
Site Supporter
Location: Camano Island, WA Joined: Fri Mar 18, 2011 Posts: 740
Real Name: Jeff
|
Did you try to 180 the distributor? Or are you 100% sure you are on TDC for #1
_________________ The Dude Abides
|
Sat May 29, 2021 1:37 pm |
|
|
mustangfreek
Site Supporter
Location: Lk stevens area Joined: Sun Aug 19, 2012 Posts: 1919
Real Name: Jason
|
Yep Start with Tdc Pull pass side first plug and confirm compression stroke and watch balancer , I set it to 10 btc Drop in dizzy so rotor ends up at #1 spot on the cap (mark with pen or such)
Hear fuel pump come on? Positive it’s a 351? As 302’s in that era had a different firing order How are u checking spark? Does the tach move when cranking?Id think it would if the distributor pickup is working correctly
|
Sun May 30, 2021 3:26 am |
|
|
Arisaka
Site Supporter
Location: Tacoma Joined: Sat May 4, 2013 Posts: 6214
|
Ally of guys here sure know their way around an engine!
|
Sun May 30, 2021 7:06 am |
|
|
Stokes
Site Supporter
Location: Oly Joined: Thu Oct 4, 2012 Posts: 1341
|
Im pretty sure I was on TDC when I dropped the distributor is, but I'm going to go thru that proceedure again just to make sure. In fact, before I take it out, I'll find TDC again, and then pull the cap to see where the rotor is pointed before pulling the distributor, just to make sure.
Also, I'm assuming it's a 351 and not a 302. It came equipped from teh factory with the 351, the intake says 5.8L, all the badging says it as well, and the distributor boss sits about an inch lower than the deck, not flush. I'd bet that it's got punched to 355 or something during rebuild, but I seriously doubt it's a 302.
I'm checking spark by putting a test bulb between the spark plug wire and the spark plug. I do have a gap tester I could use, but seems unnecessary if I'm lighting a bulb right next to the plug. The tach is acting crazy when I crank it. It even did a full circle.
I'm hoping my issue might be that I need to work thru shit gas that is left over in the fuel rails.
I have not purposefully set the distributor to 180 out.
|
Mon May 31, 2021 8:50 am |
|
|
Arisaka
Site Supporter
Location: Tacoma Joined: Sat May 4, 2013 Posts: 6214
|
Might try installing a new distributor, and if that doesn’t help, return it.
|
Mon May 31, 2021 9:28 am |
|
|
Jeffro
Site Supporter
Location: Camano Island, WA Joined: Fri Mar 18, 2011 Posts: 740
Real Name: Jeff
|
To make sure you’re on the compression stroke, most of the time, you have to pull the valve cover, or the timing cover,to confirm both valves are closed, or the timing marks are aligned. Valve covers are easier. Check the set up you have, if it doesn’t work, reset the distributor 180 degrees. You never know....
Edit : do you have a timing light? Voltage tester?
Edit 2: Starting, It’s a two person operation, someone needs to move the distributor while trying to crank, if you’re only a tooth off , you’ll at least get a sputter, if not flip it and try again. Just make sure to stay away from high voltage wires! Good luck
_________________ The Dude Abides
|
Mon May 31, 2021 9:44 am |
|
|
Arisaka
Site Supporter
Location: Tacoma Joined: Sat May 4, 2013 Posts: 6214
|
A Model T tip I learned was to tape a piece of toilet paper or Kleenex over the #1 spark plug hole. If you are on the compression stroke you will see the tissue flutter outwards
|
Mon May 31, 2021 10:32 am |
|
|
Stokes
Site Supporter
Location: Oly Joined: Thu Oct 4, 2012 Posts: 1341
|
There is no doubt when this thing is on a suck stroke or a blow stroke. I don't think this is the issue. And, this distributor is brand new.
I do have a timing light and voltage tester. Those don't do me much good before I get it fired up.
|
Mon May 31, 2021 12:56 pm |
|
|
usrifle
Site Supporter
Location: RENTON Joined: Fri Mar 25, 2011 Posts: 20771
Real Name: John
|
Are you sure you actually have a Spark at the Plug? You pulled one and grounded it to look?
_________________ Mr. Q wrote: so basically, if you have to smoke some asshole, make sure they become fertilizer and then Bounce? got it.
Guntrader wrote: Huh, maybe I was an asshole.
NRA Member/RSO SAF 5 Year Donor GOA Member
|
Mon May 31, 2021 2:00 pm |
|
|
RocketScott
Site Supporter
Location: Kentucky Joined: Fri Jan 16, 2015 Posts: 11088
|
I'm trying to email you a manual. Maybe it's too big of a PDF Here's the 'cheat sheet' I wrote up to make it easier to go through the ignition system step by step: Quote: Ignition Coil Secondary Voltage Check for spark with a spark tester
Ignition Coil Primary Circuit Switching Connect grounded 12v test lamp to coil negative and crank engine If test lamp flashes proceed to next test If test lamp lights but does not flash process to Wiring Harness test If the lamp does not light at all, proceed to the Primary Circuit Continuity test
Ignition Coil Resistance Primary resistance (measured between low voltage terminals, disconnect plug) 0.3 - 1.0 ohms Secondary resistance (negative primary terminal and secondary terminal) 8,000 – 11,500 ohms
Wiring Harness Disconnect TFI module connector Attach negative lead of a volt meter to the base of the distributor Switch ignition to RUN Pin #1 and 2 should be 90% of battery voltage Pin #3 should be 90% of battery voltage with the ignition switch in the START position If voltages are ok proceed to the Stator Assembly and Module test
Stator Assembly and Module Remove distributor from engine Remove TFI module from distributor Measure the resistance of the stator assembly If 800-975 ohms the stator is ok but the TFI module must be replaced If out of range the TFI module is ok but the stator module must be replaced
Primary Circuit Continuity Same as wiring harness test. Switch ignition switch to RUN. #1 terminal on TFI connector should be 90% of battery voltage. If not proceed to Ignition Coil Primary Voltage test
Ignition Coil Primary Voltage Turn the ignition switch ON and measure voltage between distributor base and negative coil terminal. It should be 90% of battery voltage. If not inspect the wiring between the ignition module and the negative coil terminal and proceed to the Ignition Coil Supply Voltage test
Ignition Coil Supply Voltage Turn the ignition switch on and measure the voltage between the positive ignition coil terminal and the distributor base. If the voltage is at least 90% of battery voltage, yet the engine still will not run; Check the ignition coil connector and terminals Replace the ignition switch if the connector and terminals are ok
The test light is one of these from harbor freight: https://www.harborfreight.com/circuit-tester-set-3-pc-63612.htmlThe timing light will still flash even if the engine isn't running. That's a good way to tell if you have spark and also will tell you if you're close to correct timing or 180 out
_________________ You may be right, I may be crazy, but it just may be a lunatic you're looking for
|
Mon May 31, 2021 3:02 pm |
|
|
|
Who is online |
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 49 guests |
|
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot post attachments in this forum
|
|