I don't know how long it would take.

But it doesn't have to dissolve the entire thing.

It will eat away at any steel surface in contact with the alum solution.

As it does so, it will work down the sides of the stuck bolt faster than it will eat away at the heart of the bolt.

Yours being loose in there, already, means the solution should get down and around the bolt, easily.

I'm thinking it will drop, or be easily pulled right out of there, fairly quickly.

If you do it, pay attention, then you tell US how long it took.

I leaned towards least destructive (alum) but the impatience set in so I broke out the drill.
I didn't immediately jump on the drill idea because I was worried that it might be a hardened bolt. Those suck to drill.
1/4" after trying to get the punch in the very center of the bolt:

Spoiler: show

Spoiler: show

Not terrible on the centering.

Spoiler: show

I went to 23/64 thinking that that might leave me thin enough walls to crunch out... It's kind of tough to drill through a bolt perfectly centered freehand, and the impatience had an effect on setting up the perfect jig for the drill press.

Spoiler: show

The remaining steel walls were still a bit too thick for easy crunching it out.... So I stuck in the 29/64 and it popped right out.

Spoiler: show

I gave it a scrub-a-dub-dub to get all the oils out and am heating it up on the woodstove to dry it out and get it ready for some soldering.

At least once a year I am test running an engine off of a temporary fuel tank.
Sometimes it is because the engine is on the stand and has no tank with it, and occasionally because I am tasked to fix an engine with a fuel feeding problem.

Each time that I have to do it, I cobble together a small tank from whatever occurs to me at the time. In the past these cobbled tanks have been from a piece of pipe with a nipple threaded in, a Briggs tank, and a few times I've even used a milk jug and hot glued the nipple near the bottom or glued into the lid and used upside down.

I'm looking for a better solution to the need for a portable fuel tank. Portable between engines... Anybody have a good set up?

I'd tend to lean towards the 8" steps. Normal rise on interior steps is 7 1/2". 7 3/4" is also pretty common. I doubt you'll notice the extra 1/4". Tread depth should be 10" for a flush nose, 11 1/4" to 11 1/2" with 1 1/4" to 1 1/2" overhang if you want an overhung nose.

If your rise is 24" then you're only looking at 2 actual treads with the 3rd step being up into the house. Less steps is preferable IMO. It'll also take up less real estate in the garage having 2 steps protruding from the doorway as opposed to 3. That's my line of thinking anyway.

...

Wow. That outboard tank is exactly the solution. Has the feed tube that drops to near the bottom of the tank and the hand pump to get the fuel to the motor.


I was picturing TIG welding something up.
Thank you Dan. Probably saved me a full day's worth of running around and buying stuff and putting it together... And it wouldn't have been as handy as this.

A buddy of mine from HS is struggling with his middle school daughter's new preferred identity, and he has been asking for advice. They live in Alaska, and he and his wife have raised her and her sister to be independent and self sufficient. She helps do repair work around the house and on vehicles, they go hunting and fishing together all the time. His daughter has always been a bit of a tom boy, but I knew a lot of girls growing up in AK who were. As someone who works with kids I still see a lot of tom boy girls, it's pretty common. However, over the past months his oldest daughter has been feeling like she likes both boys and girls, and very recently wanted to be called by boys name she has selected for herself. He is really struggling because he wants to be supportive, but doesn't really know how to deal with it. He feels this might just be a phase, but he is worried about her getting picked on at school and all that comes with switching sides.

I told him to support his daughter in her decision, it could be just a phase, but it could be more, and that he doesn't want to push away his daughter. Often times young people who make these decisions are not supported at home and/or by their peers and they could potentially run away or cause themselves self harm because they don't have someone to talk to or support them as a person.

What is this collective think tank's advice on this? Have you had to deal with this in your family?

And no 'a buddy of mine' is not code for me.

I guess this is not the advice thread I was looking for. Not really a DIY issue.

Anyone here know how to read a capacitor?

Sure!!!

It says: (And I even translated those little symbols!)
XENON
U60000X700C3G-
70 moof Starship Enterprise 5%b MK SH
320/480Vac.
50/60 Hz -25/70
MOTORE 220/240
TEMPO NSERIM. 1.5"
PERIODO RIPETIZIONE 6"
CE 02(something)2009 Russia

Yer welcome!

I am looking over the options for a fishing boat cover.

This is for a 14' long x 48" beam aluminum fishing boat, no canopy. I want it to be trailerable with the cover.
I'm considering building some stainless hoops to give it a roof shape, as I dislike finding rain covers turned into small ponds even worse than leaving a boat uncovered.

There are so many options that I am hoping someone here has found a good quality boat cover of the type that I am describing.
I really hate ordering something and receiving a low quality item that sounded good.

Build one first out of pvc pipe and a tarp.

Use that as a pattern, or example to build your own out of stainless steel pipe.

capacitors are rated in voltage and farads

70 microfarad, 480V

tempo inserim is Italian for 'temporary insert transfer'

and periodo repitizone is Italian for 'repetition'

I have a feeling it's referring to a duty cycle, which usually isn't put on capacitors.

It would appear to be a buffer capacitor for a motor, allowing it to start without drawing 4x the normal current. 70uF is a very common size for motor start capacitors..

I am building a tandem axle and another triple axle trailer and trying to figure out the right combination of hanger sizes. Anyone know how to figure out the ideal hanger sizes?

Some suspension kits come with all hangers the same height, and some come with a "taller" center hanger.
The axles are 6k, tires are lowboy 8-14.5 trailer tires.

Spring mounting hardware:
https://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Traile ... rings.aspx

I asked the customer service fellow that answered the phone and his reply was foolish.
"That's a question for a trailer manufacturer. We sell parts only to replace on a manufactured trailer."
Bullshit. The site is replete with new construction parts and advice, just not why there are differences in hanger heights.

Call HELWIG? (They manufacture springs and etc)

Hangar heights differ (and I'm guessing) because of the rate of flex for different stacks and weight capacity, as well as tire size?