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STED9R wrote:
Mediumrarechicken wrote:
Should I cerakote my exocet frame or have it powder coated? A huge pro is I can do the cerakote myself and save money. But I'm not sure of the durability of air cure cerakote, and I'd have to mix the color myself and getting the color where I want could be a headache. Powder coating has tons of colors, but would probably be 800 plus bucks, even more if I end up doing another color on top of a base.

Pull up Eastwood web site.
Buy a powder coating kit and powder for less than a bill
Hit CL for free stove.
Powder coating needs air pressure, low air pressure. Even a hobbyist air brush compressor will work.
Now, you can play.

The frame replaces a miata body.

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Sat Aug 20, 2016 7:37 pm
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Mediumrarechicken wrote:
STED9R wrote:
Mediumrarechicken wrote:
Should I cerakote my exocet frame or have it powder coated? A huge pro is I can do the cerakote myself and save money. But I'm not sure of the durability of air cure cerakote, and I'd have to mix the color myself and getting the color where I want could be a headache. Powder coating has tons of colors, but would probably be 800 plus bucks, even more if I end up doing another color on top of a base.

Pull up Eastwood web site.
Buy a powder coating kit and powder for less than a bill
Hit CL for free stove.
Powder coating needs air pressure, low air pressure. Even a hobbyist air brush compressor will work.
Now, you can play.

The frame replaces a miata body.

Buy a set of uv heat lamps.


Sat Aug 20, 2016 8:20 pm
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MadPick wrote:
I have a Lee .223 shell holder (#4) that I use in my Lee turret press, and the case seems to fit too loosely in the shell holder; when I seat a bullet, for example, I need to put my finger on the case to keep it completely upright. Has anyone seen this? If I buy a shell holder of a different brand, will it fit more tightly?


I have seen this. Other brands of shell holders will fit differently, also different brands of cases fit differently. Try the rcbs.

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Sat Aug 20, 2016 8:28 pm
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Thanks, Selador. I will try that.

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Sat Aug 20, 2016 9:15 pm
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deadshot2 wrote:
Perkins fuel inj troubleshooting vid

deadshot, that is a great vid and there were a bunch of excellent videos related to it. Going to be a lot of downloading and saving of some of those. Thanks!

STED9R wrote:
Fuel pressure issues. Fuel tank not venting.

Tried with cap off and same thing.

STED9R wrote:
To much case pressure.
Some self advancing fuel timing stuck.
Some compression release sticking, or gummed up valve guide.


Not sure what you mean by case pressure...
Fuel injection pump is one of the "hands off" items to me, other than linkages and simple eyeballing for obvious faults.
Could the "self advancing fuel timing" potential issue be tinkered from the outside? I had my son start it while I had my eyes on it, can see no exterior issues. Runs like a champ for 10 to 15 seconds.

STED9r wrote:
Old oil bath sir filter? Pull air filter completely off an see.


It is a double filter set up, no oil bath...
Which brings me to one of my favorite kinds of projects. The two air filters are a slight pain to get to. I have to raise the loader arms, install the safety strut, loosen and twist the coolant fill port, then I can start working on getting in to the double filters.

I'm considering replacing the extra spendy double filter set up with a standard air filter from a V8 of some type.
I'd cover the intake hose, strip out all the old parts, and weld/bolt the brackets on to install an aftermarket air filter body.
Any experience with modifying something as simple as an air filter? To my shade tree thinking, filtered air is filtered air, and as long as the new is able to pass the CFM of the old we should be golden. Too simple?

STED9R wrote:
Also if pump has ele fuel shut off on suction side could be issue.
Highly doubt there's a fuel tank lift pump, but check.

It has the electric fuel shut off on the HP side, so I am guessing that it dumps the HP fuel back to the LP side. (The elec leads are installed on a solenoid in between the injector lines on HP end of the pump.)
Gravity feed from tank through primary fuel/water separator filter, then up to one of those fancy 4-line fuel filters with clear bowl, then to injection pump.

Before I drop another $120 on two new filters (or rip out the old air filter system and replace it) I plan on removing both filters, cleaning the housing, and running the engine to see if it idles smoother for longer than 10 to 15 seconds.

Thanks for the advice sir.


Sun Aug 21, 2016 3:49 pm
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PMB wrote:
deadshot2 wrote:
Perkins fuel inj troubleshooting vid

deadshot, that is a great vid and there were a bunch of excellent videos related to it. Going to be a lot of downloading and saving of some of those. Thanks!

STED9R wrote:
Fuel pressure issues. Fuel tank not venting.

Tried with cap off and same thing.

STED9R wrote:
To much case pressure.
Some self advancing fuel timing stuck.
Some compression release sticking, or gummed up valve guide.


Not sure what you mean by case pressure...
Fuel injection pump is one of the "hands off" items to me, other than linkages and simple eyeballing for obvious faults.
Could the "self advancing fuel timing" potential issue be tinkered from the outside? I had my son start it while I had my eyes on it, can see no exterior issues. Runs like a champ for 10 to 15 seconds.

STED9r wrote:
Old oil bath sir filter? Pull air filter completely off an see.


It is a double filter set up, no oil bath...
Which brings me to one of my favorite kinds of projects. The two air filters are a slight pain to get to. I have to raise the loader arms, install the safety strut, loosen and twist the coolant fill port, then I can start working on getting in to the double filters.

I'm considering replacing the extra spendy double filter set up with a standard air filter from a V8 of some type.
I'd cover the intake hose, strip out all the old parts, and weld/bolt the brackets on to install an aftermarket air filter body.
Any experience with modifying something as simple as an air filter? To my shade tree thinking, filtered air is filtered air, and as long as the new is able to pass the CFM of the old we should be golden. Too simple?

[quote="STED9R]Also if pump has ele fuel shut off on suction side could be issue.
Highly doubt there's a fuel tank lift pump, but check.[/quote]
It has the electric fuel shut off on the HP side, so I am guessing that it dumps the HP fuel back to the LP side. (The elec leads are installed on a solenoid in between the injector lines on HP end of the pump.)
Gravity feed from tank through primary fuel/water separator filter, then up to one of those fancy 4-line fuel filters with clear bowl, then to injection pump.

Before I drop another $120 on two new filters (or rip out the old air filter system and replace it) I plan on removing both filters, cleaning the housing, and running the engine to see if it idles smoother for longer than 10 to 15 seconds.

Thanks for the advice sir.[/quote][/quote][/quote][/quote]




Welp, with it being mechanical fuel injection and the filters being old(Years not hours(mileage)) then I'd guess a dried seal @ a filter or loose old filter that lets the injector pump draw in air.

lIKE DRINKING MILK THROUGH A STRAW...IT ALL WORKS UNTIL YOU POKE A PIN HOLE IN THE STRAW...THE INJECTOR PUMP FINDS IT EASIER TO DRAW AIR INSTEAD OF HEAVY DIESEL OIL.

cHECK ALL SEALS AT ALL FILTERS FOR SMALL CRACKS AND WheTHER THE fuel FILTERS OR filter CANISTERS ARE TIGHT.


Air in the diesel feed line.will make it run rough and stall.

It gets bad enough and it wont start.





Sorry Id fix the text...I accidentally hit caps lock but I'm tired.

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Sun Aug 21, 2016 5:55 pm
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Just purchased a 870 Express Tactical. So far I need to know:
1. What type of HD rounds do you recommend?
2. Any easy modifications that you recommend?
3. I'm not a fan of the synthetic and might want to switch out to wood. Will any wood furniture work or does it have to be specific?

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Sun Aug 21, 2016 8:51 pm
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pdrake wrote:
Great idea for a thread!

Somebody please help me. My elderly neighbor "gave" me his 20-year old Sears sit-down lawnmower. 16HP OHV Briggs & Stratton engine. He bought a new Deere machine, and figured I could use his. It's dead, of course. Flat tire. The older gentleman is kind of soft in the head, and had recently been changing parts (randomly). The folks at Sears were too happy to cooperate. He tried to start it, to show me it works. Well, it cranked, and then spewed gobs of oil on the driveway. I towed it to my place, where it has sat for months. I would dump it in the back 40, but the neighbor's wife tells me it was a gift from a family member.

I am no mechanic. What are the first 3 or 5 things you would do? Somebody suggested it might just have too much oil, and I should drain it and start again. Any advice welcomed!


Okay. I'm no mechanic but I do know my way around garden equipment.

With the 16 HP Briggs & Stratton (read: not crazy fast or effective at lawn mowing even out of the box), and given the age of the riding mower, I'd seriously consider selling it on CL or donating it to one of those places that take junker vehicles (yes, they'll take a riding lawnmower). That would be my first thing.

Barring that, replace the spark plug, oil filter, oil, and air filter, and drain any fuel it has in it now and replace it with ethanol-free fuel (ethanol is H-ll on small engines--you can buy the ethanol-free stuff at the grange). Replace the drive belt. Replace the oil. The parts can be ordered off of www.searspartsdirect.com; you'll need the model number, which is usually under the seat, and begins with three digits followed by either eight or nine more, I can't remember. So xxx.xxxxxxxx.

You want to make sure that the parts he put in it actually go with the actual riding lawnmower--and Sears stores themselves carry very few parts now, so if he misread the model number or just ordered random sh*t off of the site or over the phone, it may well be that he has the wrong parts in there. Anyway, that would be my second thing.

Third thing, f*ck if I know.

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Mon Aug 22, 2016 4:43 am
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BadKarma wrote:
Just purchased a 870 Express Tactical. So far I need to know:
1. What type of HD rounds do you recommend? 2 3/4" #8. At close range it might as well be buckshot, but half the cost.
2. Any easy modifications that you recommend? Aside from a sling, no...it's good to go right out of the box. Just give it a good break-in.
3. I'm not a fan of the synthetic and might want to switch out to wood. Will any wood furniture work or does it have to be specific? Specific to 870, I would think. Check Gunbroker or eBay.


Mon Aug 22, 2016 7:21 am
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Selador wrote:
pdrake wrote:
Great idea for a thread!

Somebody please help me. My elderly neighbor "gave" me his 20-year old Sears sit-down lawnmower. 16HP OHV Briggs & Stratton engine. He bought a new Deere machine, and figured I could use his. It's dead, of course. Flat tire. The older gentleman is kind of soft in the head, and had recently been changing parts (randomly). The folks at Sears were too happy to cooperate. He tried to start it, to show me it works. Well, it cranked, and then spewed gobs of oil on the driveway. I towed it to my place, where it has sat for months. I would dump it in the back 40, but the neighbor's wife tells me it was a gift from a family member.

I am no mechanic. What are the first 3 or 5 things you would do? Somebody suggested it might just have too much oil, and I should drain it and start again. Any advice welcomed!

It cranked. That's good news.

1.) Drain the oil. Then fill it with the correct amount of the right oil. Check the manual to see how, and what.
2.) Pull the plug. First look to see if the plug is oil fouled. If so, clean it, but do not replace it yet.
3.) Do a spark test. Ground the body of the plug somewhere on the body of the engine. Crank it over. Watch to see if a spark jumps the gap on the plug. If no spark, check the coil and/or magneto.
4.) Once you have changed the oil, and have a spark, replace the plug and try to start it. If it doesn't start, spray some starting fluid in the carb and try again. If it starts, but dies pretty quickly, you have a fuel delivery problem.

Edit: Should have said at the end of 2.)... If you have already changed the oil, and know there is not too much oil in the engine, crank it over a few times with the plug still out, to clear any oil in the cylinder.


For the fuel delivery problem (if it has one) change the fuel filter. Most overlooked item on most "yard equipment". Could be something as simple as a screen inside a sediment bowl but when plugged-----NO GO.

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Mon Aug 22, 2016 7:24 am
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PMB wrote:
I'm considering replacing the extra spendy double filter set up with a standard air filter from a V8 of some type.
I'd cover the intake hose, strip out all the old parts, and weld/bolt the brackets on to install an aftermarket air filter body.
Any experience with modifying something as simple as an air filter? To my shade tree thinking, filtered air is filtered air, and as long as the new is able to pass the CFM of the old we should be golden. Too simple?



The dual filter system is designed to handle severe dusty conditions. The "low flying crows and corncobs" are filtered by the first and the extra fines by the second. Diesel engines eat a lot of air and DO NOT like any abrasive dust. ANYTHING that can cause wear and lower the compression is BAD MOJO (or Ju-Ju if you wish).

Consider checking out the Farm Tractor, Truck, or Construction Equipment junk-yards. Find a large filter unit that you can mount elsewhere on the tractor then Run pipe from the intake to the new filter location. Some tractors used in Ea. Washington have engine air filters mounted on top the cab and the piping looks like a Military Fording Kit on a Deuce and a Half.

You could also rig something like this:

Image

Check out off-road shops, Milsurp, or used tractor part sources online.


ALSO----

Is there an electrical line to the top of the injector pump? If so there is a fuel shut-off solenoid that tends to stick. First check for voltage when switch in Run position. If there, cycle run switch on/off and feel/listen to see if solenoid is functioning. Since rig sat some time it may be stuck. If your engine uses a manual STOP lever/handle it may not have the solenoid. If it does, the only wire on the pump will be for the solenoid.

Also, check fuel return line on injector pump. There's a check valve installed at the pump. Could also be plugged/stuck.

Check online parts diagrams (should be plenty for YOUR engine) for location and what these items look like. Some cures are as simple as cleaning with Carb Cleaner or Brake-Kleen to get rid of gum/goo/sludge.

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Mon Aug 22, 2016 7:36 am
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Guns4Liberty wrote:
BadKarma wrote:
Just purchased a 870 Express Tactical. So far I need to know:
1. What type of HD rounds do you recommend? 2 3/4" #8. At close range it might as well be buckshot, but half the cost.
2. Any easy modifications that you recommend? Aside from a sling, no...it's good to go right out of the box. Just give it a good break-in.
3. I'm not a fan of the synthetic and might want to switch out to wood. Will any wood furniture work or does it have to be specific? Specific to 870, I would think. Check Gunbroker or eBay.


I hesitated to recommend the #8 bird shot because it seems unconventional, but that's what the first couple of rounds in my HD shotguns are. The energy transfer is near 100%.
Glad I'm not the only one. :cheers2:


Sat Aug 27, 2016 10:10 am
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WaJim wrote:
Welp, with it being mechanical fuel injection and the filters being old(Years not hours(mileage)) then I'd guess a dried seal @ a filter or loose old filter that lets the injector pump draw in air.


I thought I was in the clear regarding air in the fuel lines... Then I found a small wet spot downstream of the primary fuel/water separator.
To paraphrase an old saw, where there's smoke there's air.

Jim wrote:
lIKE DRINKING MILK THROUGH A STRAW...IT ALL WORKS UNTIL YOU POKE A PIN HOLE IN THE STRAW...THE INJECTOR PUMP FINDS IT EASIER TO DRAW AIR INSTEAD OF HEAVY DIESEL OIL.

cHECK ALL SEALS AT ALL FILTERS FOR SMALL CRACKS AND WheTHER THE fuel FILTERS OR filter CANISTERS ARE TIGHT.


gawdam man, why yell at me?


Jim wrote:
Air in the diesel feed line.will make it run rough and stall.

It gets bad enough and it wont start.


That could explain the "runs great for 15 seconds" if the bubble takes that long to get down to the injectors... My understanding was that if there was a bubble big enough to build up like that it would stop all injection in that cylinder - just act like a bubble-spring in the injection line.





Jim wrote:
Sorry Id fix the text...I accidentally hit caps lock but I'm tired.


Thank goodness. I thought you were angry at me for being such a dork mech. hahah :bigsmile:


Sat Aug 27, 2016 10:21 am
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PMB wrote:
Guns4Liberty wrote:
BadKarma wrote:
Just purchased a 870 Express Tactical. So far I need to know:
1. What type of HD rounds do you recommend? 2 3/4" #8. At close range it might as well be buckshot, but half the cost.
2. Any easy modifications that you recommend? Aside from a sling, no...it's good to go right out of the box. Just give it a good break-in.
3. I'm not a fan of the synthetic and might want to switch out to wood. Will any wood furniture work or does it have to be specific? Specific to 870, I would think. Check Gunbroker or eBay.


I hesitated to recommend the #8 bird shot because it seems unconventional, but that's what the first couple of rounds in my HD shotguns are. The energy transfer is near 100%.
Glad I'm not the only one. :cheers2:

Play-Dough. Amazingly works great for close distance. It will put a person down wearing heavy clothing. If he gets up, the second is #2.
Easy to load Play-Do. Open shell, dump shot, start putting in pieces of dough, pack hard and recrimp.


Sat Aug 27, 2016 10:25 am
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deadshot2 wrote:
The dual filter system is designed to handle severe dusty conditions. The "low flying crows and corncobs" are filtered by the first and the extra fines by the second. Diesel engines eat a lot of air and DO NOT like any abrasive dust.


I'm careful with air filtering. A diesel runs with the intake wide open, so it pumps a lot of air. That should be the only difference between gas and diesel on the air filtering as far as I know.
The "severe dusty" is right on the money - tractors are like Pigpen in the old Peanuts comic strip.

deadshot2 wrote:
Consider checking out the Farm Tractor, Truck, or Construction Equipment junk-yards. Find a large filter unit that you can mount elsewhere on the tractor then Run pipe from the intake to the new filter location. Some tractors used in Ea. Washington have engine air filters mounted on top the cab and the piping looks like a Military Fording Kit on a Deuce and a Half.


That's about what I did to test out the air restriction theory... Took a diesel engine filter housing and new filter and ran it up into the cab... Had the exact same issue so I am going to jump on the pin-hole in the low-pressure side of the fuel system.

Quote:
Is there an electrical line to the top of the injector pump? If so there is a fuel shut-off solenoid that tends to stick. First check for voltage when switch in Run position. If there, cycle run switch on/off and feel/listen to see if solenoid is functioning. Since rig sat some time it may be stuck. If your engine uses a manual STOP lever/handle it may not have the solenoid. If it does, the only wire on the pump will be for the solenoid.

Also, check fuel return line on injector pump. There's a check valve installed at the pump. Could also be plugged/stuck.


The solenoid seems to work fine, but of course I can't see the internals.
Funny that you should mention the check valve on the fuel return line. You would have saved me almost 6 months of off and on frustration with my John Deere 410C if I'd have asked this back then. That darned check valve is tiny, and the fix was to break the little glass ball that acts as the check.


Sat Aug 27, 2016 10:34 am
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