The WeenieWagun...

[TechnoWeenie]

Well, it's been a while since I updated about my truck...

It's part venting and part planning so, bear with me...

I have been making plans, but there have been a couple major obstacles.

1. Depression. I've never been depressed too much in my life, but this shit is fucking crippling. I look at all the shit that needs to get done and just say 'fuck it'... I have a lot of demolition to do (I'll go over that later), and that costs $0, but getting the motivation to do it has been, troublesome.

2. Money. Odd jobs and selling stuff keeps up with my credit card bills, very little money to actually sink into the 5 ton...

3. Parking.. 5 MPG and finding 'friendly' parking spots is becoming an expensive proposition..


But, with all the bullshit out of the way....

The M934 van, expansible, has expanding sides, but not a slideout like you think. When not expanded, the interior walls are actually the floor and ceiling of the expanded part. The exterior wall has the doors and windows. So, when enclosed, the floor and ceiling block the doors and windows... No bueno. This also means that NOTHING can be mounted to the floor,because it's actually the wall...making designing damn near impossible.

For this reason, I chose to remove the slide out, and permanently enclose it...




You can see the wood is heavily rotted in areas, some areas are no more than cardboard... This is because the nature of the 'seal' that they have.. which is to say.. none.. They have a drip edge, and they expect the drip edge to not allow water intrusion... Needless to say, that needs to be fixed...

So, the sides came out....



You can see the bottom and top pieces are hinged, meeting the outside wall to form the ceiling/floor... those were removed, and then the side slid back in....

The issue with the water leaking in is still present, although extremely minor, and it does need to be fixed... You can see what I mean in this next pic...




So, I have the aluminum strips to seal the gap, but not a place to do the work (tall, covered)... So, while it's dry inside, I get some water down the walls occasionally, which, isn't a big deal because I don't have anything on the wall..

The wall is stout, made of steel tubing....






So, I need to seal up the sides, strip the wood panels, and remove the fiberglass insulation and replace it with foam...


Not bad..


The ceiling doesn't leak, thankfully, but I've decided to pull the panels and replace the insulation. Fiberglass insulation loses R value over time, and might as well not be there, given that it's only 2" thick and now 30+ years old...




The biggest issue I'm running into is that the screws on the walls are countersunk, AND rusted in place... I tried pry bars, extractor bits, drilling,etc and all are too slow.. i think I'm gonna invest in a small reciprocating tool to cut around the screws to get the panel off, then shave the heads of the screw off once the panel is off...

I also mocked up a tenative interior design...


I've been bouncing back and forth between plastic 55gal water drums, and a custom water tank.

I think 100 gallons is the minimum I'd want to carry.

Drums are cheap.

I plan on using the overhang and building out slightly to fit a queen size bed. That'll leave about 2ft overhang.


I have 3 options, as I see it.

2 drums, ea ~3' tall and 22" in diameter, when placed lengthwise, would be ~6' and 22" away from the wall and 22" high.


OR

a 7' wide by 2' deep x 12" tall custom tank... Which would be covered and used as a step.

OR

3 drums, standing upright.


I like the idea of laying drums down, as I could have the top bung be for fill, and bottom bung for output, both teed, so they'd fill and empty evenly, keeping a lower center of gravity.

Obviously, IMO, the custom water tank would be better, but you'd be looking @ ~$500, vs ~$15ea for blue water barrels

Water is HEAVY.. 8.34lbs per gallon, so 2- 55 gallon drums = 110 gallons = 917.4lbs, and 3 drums would be a staggering 1,376.1 lbs!

I could easily build a holding rack for the barrels, and make storage pockets above the drums and below the bed....




I wanna have a small kitchenette setup, with a 2 burner propane stove and a small sink.

I also wanna have a shower, and I'm designing a composting toilet that would only require to be emptied every 2 weeks or so, with the waste being able to be disposed of in any trash can (Ie, not liquid/hazardous materials).. with liquid waste (pee) diverted to a 20+ gallon tank underneath.

[TechnoWeenie]

On my to do list....

• Remove rest of the aluminum panels on the ceiling, and remove the insulation.
• Add roof hatch (have the aluminum, need it welded)
• Fix open sides
• remove wall paneling
• remove wall insulation
• run new wiring
• install solar panels/batteries/fuse panels
• replace wall insulation
• decide on a wall cover (Pretty sure it's gonna be luaun wood stained olive drab)
• Design/install shower and toilet
• Design (or buy) kitchenette
• scrape paint off the windows (my fault, I oversprayed)
  

Among many others...


EDIT: For the water storage, I could also use slimmer 20 gallon tanks, and use more of them, and have the bed hinged on the overhang part so it's not in the way during the day....


Right now, I have a couple storage bins of clothes... Rubbermaid... A twin mattress, and a wood bed frame I made from 4x4s and 3/4 underlayment. And lots of blankets. Haha

[Traut]

To get around the rusted countersunk screw problem, can you maybe use something like a small, say 1/2" holesaw and just encircle the screw head? Once you pull the panel off, you'll have a bunch of 1 /2" disks left, but the would be easy to get a hold of and unscrew or knock off. Im not explaining it well, but it's sort of like drilling out spotwelds.

Last edited by Traut on Fri Nov 23, 2018 11:59 pm, edited 1 time in total.

[TechnoWeenie]

To get around the rusted countersunk screw problem, can you maybe use something like a small, say 1/2" and just encircle the screw head? Once you pull the panel off, you'll have a bunch of 1 /2" disks left, but the would be easy to get a hold of and unscrew or knock off. Im not explaining it well, but it's sort of like drilling out spotwelds.

Holy shit.

This is what I get when I overthink shit.

Mother of God, thank you..

I completely did not think about using a small hole saw.. And that would be so much quicker and easier than using a reciprocating tool..

I could probably measure the size of the screw head and get a hole saw bit a hair bigger.

Seriously. Thank you.. I feel like an idiot for not thinking about that.

[KeystoneCowboy]

I like the water barrel idea. Great way to save some money. Make damn sure they are secure though. I know you're looking to save some money on this by diy and whatnot. My opinion I would scrape and save and just buy an available compostable toilet. Lots of options available.

[deadshot2]

I like the water barrel idea. Great way to save some money. Make damn sure they are secure though. I know you're looking to save some money on this by diy and whatnot. My opinion I would scrape and save and just buy an available compostable toilet. Lots of options available.

Rather than using water barrels I'd consider rectangular tanks like those used in RV's. Less wasted apace and a rectangle the length and width of a barrel would hold almost twice as much water. Either more water in same space or less space used for the same amount. Multiple tanks are a good idea. Filling and venting can be done through a manifold for each function but using individual usage outlets lets one know when they're almost out of water.

When you get ready to put in batteries, better have saved your money. Most efficient for weight/power stored are the LiFePo batteries. Half the weight of Lead Acid, take a charge faster, and you can use ALL of the battery capacity rather than just 50% like with flooded lead/acid. Save LOTS of money as a 100 Ah LiFePo battery runs around $900 now. RV owners all over the nation are changing over to them for longer run times on their TV's, lighting, etc. 3 hour charge times versus 6-12 hr charging with SLA's.

[TechnoWeenie]

I like the water barrel idea. Great way to save some money. Make damn sure they are secure though. I know you're looking to save some money on this by diy and whatnot. My opinion I would scrape and save and just buy an available compostable toilet. Lots of options available.

Rather than using water barrels I'd consider rectangular tanks like those used in RV's. Less wasted apace and a rectangle the length and width of a barrel would hold almost twice as much water. Either more water in same space or less space used for the same amount. Multiple tanks are a good idea. Filling and venting can be done through a manifold for each function but using individual usage outlets lets one know when they're almost out of water.

When you get ready to put in batteries, better have saved your money. Most efficient for weight/power stored are the LiFePo batteries. Half the weight of Lead Acid, take a charge faster, and you can use ALL of the battery capacity rather than just 50% like with flooded lead/acid. Save LOTS of money as a 100 Ah LiFePo battery runs around $900 now. RV owners all over the nation are changing over to them for longer run times on their TV's, lighting, etc. 3 hour charge times versus 6-12 hr charging with SLA's.

Yup. I calculated and mocked up a 100 gallon custom tank too...




But cost is a major factor.

Same reason I'm going with GC2s.... And they're rated for 80% DoD.. Not just 50%...

Yes, longer charge time, but I think I was looking at ~2kwh for 200$...that'd run my lights and chargers and stuff for a week plus with no charging... And I plan on 1kw of solar and alternator tie in.

[TechnoWeenie]

I like the water barrel idea. Great way to save some money. Make damn sure they are secure though. I know you're looking to save some money on this by diy and whatnot. My opinion I would scrape and save and just buy an available compostable toilet. Lots of options available.

I think I'm gonna go with a larger number of 20ish gallon tanks, as they're only ~14" instead of over 2'... That will minimize lost space..

The compostable toilets I've seen are in the grand range.... I'm thinking, peat moss or sawdust, a waterproof bag, and a home depot bucket, with a 24hr a day small vent van to outside, in a small enclosure..... Less than $100 instead of over a grand...

Something like this, maybe?

[deadshot2]

Same reason I'm going with GC2s.... And they're rated for 80% DoD.. Not just 50%...

Yes, some claim 80% DoD on the Golf Cart Batteries but doing that cuts the number of potential cycles by a huge factor. Also, if you draw down ANY lead acid battery and leave it that way for any length of time, it's number of lifetime cycles is drastically reduced. Sulfation occurs with every discharge and if it remains discharged for any time at all, the sulfated lead turns into hard crystals.

Yes, you can discharge a GC-2 battery to 80% DoD but the question is "How many times". The answer is "Far fewer times than if you stopped and recharged at 50%.

BTW, don't forget that it takes 2 GC-2's to make ONE 12V battery.

[TechnoWeenie]

Same reason I'm going with GC2s.... And they're rated for 80% DoD.. Not just 50%...

Yes, some claim 80% DoD on the Golf Cart Batteries but doing that cuts the number of potential cycles by a huge factor. Also, if you draw down ANY lead acid battery and leave it that way for any length of time, it's number of lifetime cycles is drastically reduced. Sulfation occurs with every discharge and if it remains discharged for any time at all, the sulfated lead turns into hard crystals.

Yes, you can discharge a GC-2 battery to 80% DoD but the question is "How many times". The answer is "Far fewer times than if you stopped and recharged at 50%.

BTW, don't forget that it takes 2 GC-2's to make ONE 12V battery.

Did you forget who you're talking to?

Interstate GC2s are rated for 800 cycles @ 50% DoD, but only 500 cycles @ 80% DoD 215Ah IIRC.... .... The idea is to keep them topped up as much as possible....

Trojan T-125s are a hair more than Interstate GC2s, but are rated for 1000 cycles, 80% DoD, 240Ah...


I appreciate you trying to look out for me....

[Selador]

I like the water barrel idea. Great way to save some money. Make damn sure they are secure though. I know you're looking to save some money on this by diy and whatnot. My opinion I would scrape and save and just buy an available compostable toilet. Lots of options available.

I think I'm gonna go with a larger number of 20ish gallon tanks, as they're only ~14" instead of over 2'... That will minimize lost space..

The compostable toilets I've seen are in the grand range.... I'm thinking, peat moss or sawdust, a waterproof bag, and a home depot bucket, with a 24hr a day small vent van to outside, in a small enclosure..... Less than $100 instead of over a grand...

Something like this, maybe?

Please include the raw link when you post a youtube video. The bracketed links are not working for me any more.

That is a great idea for the toilet!

However, before you go to the trouble of building that box, you can still do it without the box.

The cheapest toilet seat at Lowes, fits a 5 gallon bucket perfectly. There are 4 bumpers on the bottom of the seat. I pried off the front two. Then, when ready to use it, I just sat the seat down on the bucket, and pulled it forward.

The two back bumpers stop it when they come up against the outside of the rim of the bucket. That lets you know the seat is centered on the bucket.

That is safe to sit on. And will support 300 pounds, easily. *With a good bucket. I'd steer clear of anything that seems kind of thin.

Just don't go shifting around on it. It is stable enough for some shifting. But don't treat it like it's bolted down.

[mp1977]

Same reason I'm going with GC2s.... And they're rated for 80% DoD.. Not just 50%...

Yes, some claim 80% DoD on the Golf Cart Batteries but doing that cuts the number of potential cycles by a huge factor. Also, if you draw down ANY lead acid battery and leave it that way for any length of time, it's number of lifetime cycles is drastically reduced. Sulfation occurs with every discharge and if it remains discharged for any time at all, the sulfated lead turns into hard crystals.

Yes, you can discharge a GC-2 battery to 80% DoD but the question is "How many times". The answer is "Far fewer times than if you stopped and recharged at 50%.

BTW, don't forget that it takes 2 GC-2's to make ONE 12V battery.

Did you forget who you're talking to?

Interstate GC2s are rated for 800 cycles @ 50% DoD, but only 500 cycles @ 80% DoD 215Ah IIRC.... .... The idea is to keep them topped up as much as possible....

Trojan T-125s are a hair more than Interstate GC2s, but are rated for 1000 cycles, 80% DoD, 240Ah...


I appreciate you trying to look out for me....

We’ve had good luck with Costco’s GC2 batteries. 4 of them wired in series and parallel lasted 7 years and would run a microwave, hair drier, electric percolator, furnace, etc. without complaint. 8th year, they started drawing down too quickly and were replaced with the same.

400 watts of mono solar in series and parallel via a MPPT controller keeps them charged. 70% is the lowest that they have ever been drawn down to. Usually 85% is typical, then back to 100% by noon, later if it’s raining.

Good batteries for $90 each.

[golddigger14s]

I went with the GC2's for my system. Two Duracells $93 (+core charge) ea at Sam's Club. 100 watt Renogy folding panel.

[Pablo]

TW - how does someone, say, make contact with you? I have at least one thing for your project. Not charity, just the guys, you know we always have extra tools and stuff. Maybe shipping address?

[Powderman]

That's an old military shop van, isn't it?

Those are sturdy and well built. They do have ONE problem, though---

I don't know if you've done any upgrading with the electricals, but the problem I always ran into was that they had a tendency to pass stray voltage...meaning, if you grabbed the rails to get into the van, you'd do the herky-jerky for a second or so.

Make sure that thing is well grounded.