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 1926 Model TT Restoration: Engine/Trans Rebuild 
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Real Name: chris
:thumbsup2: awesome job restoring this.

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Fri Apr 26, 2019 5:34 pm
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Too bad you're not very innovative...

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Helluva good job there, bud! :thumbsup2:


Fri Apr 26, 2019 5:38 pm
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Thanks guys! An engineer with tools and scrap is a dangerous thing


Fri Apr 26, 2019 5:50 pm
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Location: Snohomish Co
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Welp, just picked up anouther model t body today, that puts me a 3 roadsters including my dads. A local guy stopped by my garage, and mentioned he picked up a few pallets of model t tin. I picked out enough pieces for a '25 or earlier roadster with low firewall, gave him $300.

Should be pretty sweet behind my hot v-8 60 flathead. I'm shooting for under 1600lbs. BTW he does have the most of an early 2dr sedan body, it needs wood and assembly, also 2/3rds of a touring.


Sun Apr 28, 2019 4:25 pm
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shaggy wrote:
Welp, just picked up anouther model t body today, that puts me a 3 roadsters including my dads. A local guy stopped by my garage, and mentioned he picked up a few pallets of model t tin. I picked out enough pieces for a '25 or earlier roadster with low firewall, gave him $300.

Should be pretty sweet behind my hot v-8 60 flathead. I'm shooting for under 1600lbs. BTW he does have the most of an early 2dr sedan body, it needs wood and assembly, also 2/3rds of a touring.

How about some pics shaggy?


Sun Apr 28, 2019 5:57 pm
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Arisaka wrote:
How about some pics shaggy?

I'll get some when i get a chance, i dont have a smart phone. As you can imagine when the wood in t's rot out it's just a pile of unattractive tin, so i was fitting stuff up tonite. It's free of any rust holes minus a spot on turtledeck near where the factory solders it and was probably ground thin, and missing the panel behind the seat.

BTW he had a pair of pretty nice running boards, including a pair of the 12" long truck ones, incase you need, oh and some pretty solid fenders that needed some good hammer work.


Sun Apr 28, 2019 8:20 pm
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Thanks shaggy! As it turns out, my tin is solid but rough. Lots of small dents. But that’s just the way I want this truck to look. Like it has put in its time, and is still working for a living


Last edited by Arisaka on Mon Apr 29, 2019 4:22 pm, edited 1 time in total.



Sun Apr 28, 2019 8:39 pm
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Time to dive into the hydraulic brake installation. This is fairly big job, and will be a multi-part update

First order of business is unpacking and taking inventory. Here are the contents of the shipping box

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Starting from the upper left corner are the following components

Brake calipers

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Bolts to attach the brake discs to my rear wheels

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Brake discs

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Master cylinder

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Caliper and master cylinder mounting brackets

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Steel and flexible brake lines

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At one end of the flex line is a pressure switch, that will replace my unreliable mechanical brake light switch

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Finally, here is my brake pedal I sent in when I ordered the brake kit. It had a tab welded to the end, which accepts a clevis and rod that actuates the master cylinder

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First job is to reinstall my brake pedal. This is a tricky job as the added tab on the brake pedal makes is difficult to weasel the brake pedal into the transmission. With some fiddling around I got it figured out. Here you can see the pedal shaft half way into the tranny. That silver thing is a band clamp that keeps the brake band in place

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Then comes the spring, washer and nut

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You no doubt noticed all the rags stuffed into the transmission. This is to prevent a spring, washer or nut from dropping into the transmission. Doing so is a classic Model T screwup, and will get you lots of laughs and ribbing from other Model T guys. You can try fishing around with magnets and borescopes to get these little parts out, but it is mostly futile. Generally you have to pull the hogshead apart to fix this screwup. And you have to remember to count how many rags you stuffed in there, because leaving one in there is also a major screwup. I managed to assemble the brake without mishap. Here you can see the spring, washer and nut threaded on

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The rags come put, and band clamp comes off. The wrench is used to tighten up the nut

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The nut is tightened to adjust the brake band so it contacts the drum just before the pedal bottoms out. Then the oil screen and access plate go on

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The foot throttle conversion goes on next

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Finally the floorboards go in

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Tomorrow I will continue the brake installation by removing the stock brake drums from the rear wheels, and replacing them with the new brake discs.


Mon Apr 29, 2019 12:55 pm
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Tackled the rear wheels yesterday. Here is the left rear wheel straight off the truck, with the factory brake drum

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The bolts holding the drums on are peeled over, as is correct.

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Attacked them with an angle grinder to cut off the peened ends

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I sprayed all the nuts with PB Blaster two days ago and let it soak in, as the nuts were pretty rusty. It seemed to work, as the nuts came off fairly easily.

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Drove out the old bolts with a punch

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Finally the drum came off with a little prying

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Cleaned up the hubs. They were covered in quite a bit of 93 year old dirt and grease. Those grooves in the hickory spokes are from the Rocky Mountain brake bands. This rubbing of the RM brake bands on the spokes is very common.

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After cleaning up the hubs, it was time to bolt on the new brake discs, using new hardware

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Today I will tighten down these nuts and peen the ends over.

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Next up is reinstalling the emergency brakes and attaching the caliper brackets to the radius rod mounts


Thu May 02, 2019 8:10 am
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Took a few days off from wrenching to get some yard work done. Went back at it today. Started with reinstalling the emergency brake shoes

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Then the outer seal. Had to cut down the felt as it was too thick and caused interference between the wheel hub and the outer cup of the seal

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The outer cup was not a tight fit so I center punched dimples in it to snug it up

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Peened over the wheel hub bolts

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Ready now for the caliper bracket

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The old radius rod bolts come out, one way or another.

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Longer grade 8 bolts go in along with a spacer to properly position the caliper bracket

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Then the caliper goes on. At first fit, the caliper wasn’t centered on the disc

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Found a grade 8 washer that was 0.75 inch thick, which was what I needed to move the bracket and caliper out the necessary amount. Had to open up the washer ID some, to get the bolt through

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Put it all back together and rechecked the caliper. It was centered now

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Torqued the caliper bracket mounting bolts down to the spec of 180 ft-lbs

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On goes the wheel, castle nut and hubcap. One side done

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Other side next, followed by the master cylinder and brake lines


Sun May 05, 2019 4:58 pm
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I've changed my mind about retiring in the future. Seems like too damn much work.

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Leave it cleaner than you found it.


Sun May 05, 2019 7:45 pm
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MadPick wrote:
I've changed my mind about retiring in the future. Seems like too damn much work.

Yeah, but the commute is good and my boss is cute.


Sun May 05, 2019 7:47 pm
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Started in on the right side brake caliper and immediately ran into a problem. The wheel hub fits to the axle with a taper fit. If either the hub or axle are worn, the wheel will slide too far down the axle taper and rub up against the outer axle seal. Even with the bare minimum of felt thickness. I had interference. In fact, with no felt at all the wheel hub still rubbed against the seal. Below are the seal, and the inside of the wheel hub

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The best fix for this is to replace the worn component. But new TT axles and hubs are nonexistent. And used ones are usually pretty badly worn. These trucks hauled heavy loads and were not treated gently. The other fix is to install an axle shim. These are available commercially for cars, but not for the trucks, which have a much larger axle. So I needed to make a shim. First step was to make a paper template. Took some notebook paper and wrapped it around the axle. It you squeeze it a bit you can impress marks on the paper that show you where to trim it

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Here is the trimmed template

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Then transfer it to shim stock.

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Wasn’t sure how thick a shim I needed, so I cut one from 0.005” and one from 0.008” stock.

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Then found a tapered punch to roll the shims around

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Did a test fit on the axle and the fit was good enough for Model T work!

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To check interference, I stuck some balls of clay on the outer seal cup and then mounted the wheel. Torqued down the axle nut to compress the clay balls. Pulled the wheel back off and found that the 0.005” shim gave me a clearance of 0.03” between the hub and the seal. Still pretty tight. Pulled the wheel off and swapped in the 0.008” shim. That was the ticket!

Now for the caliper bracket. Found that the caliper mounting bolts were too long, and hit the brake disc. Had to knock a quarter inch or so off each one. Most of you know this trick, but it’s a good idea to run a nut on before you cut the bolt. That way, when you take the nut off it chases the threads which makes it easier to start a nut on the shortened bolt. Dad taught me this many a moon ago. Well, probably 55 years ago to be more precise.

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Needed to add some washers here and there to center the caliper on the brake disc, but finally got it. Removed the caliper, so I could then remove the wheel (for the Umpteenth time), so I could then access the bracket mounting bolts and torque them down to 180 ft-lbs. Then the wheel and caliper go back on. And here it is

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Master cylinder installation is next


Mon May 06, 2019 1:42 pm
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I just had a thought, looking through you brake swap photos. How are your wheels? I've never driven wooden spoke, but i've head from old timers they can be a little uncomfortable at speed. Now i'm wondering what the stopping torque could do to them? Again, the only t's i've driven were steel wheels, and relatively slow.


Tue May 07, 2019 9:49 pm
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shaggy wrote:
I just had a thought, looking through you brake swap photos. How are your wheels? I've never driven wooden spoke, but i've head from old timers they can be a little uncomfortable at speed. Now i'm wondering what the stopping torque could do to them? Again, the only t's i've driven were steel wheels, and relatively slow.

The wheels are all sound, but there is no way to “true” them like with a metal spoked wheel. So they are not perfectly round. Which means that above 30 mph the ride gets rough. The upside is that my top speed is 30 mph, unless I’m going downhill in neutral, or off a cliff


Wed May 08, 2019 8:26 am
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