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 1926 Model TT Restoration: Engine/Trans Rebuild 
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I really find it a odd coincidence that chevy T400 clutch frictions fit in model t's...

Any thought on counter-weighting the crank? There are even a number of "bolt on" counterweights dating back to "in the day"


Thu Aug 20, 2020 11:17 pm
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shaggy wrote:
I really find it a odd coincidence that chevy T400 clutch frictions fit in model t's...

Any thought on counter-weighting the crank? There are even a number of "bolt on" counterweights dating back to "in the day"

Shaggy, you are full of good questions and comments!

Some say the bolt-on counterweights are good. Others say they lead to crankshaft failure. Everybody agrees model t cranks are undersized and weak. They fail both with and without counterweights. But, adding more weight to an already weak design seems like a gamble. If you really want to reduce engine vibration, the best way to go is to buy a Scat crank, which is stronger, made with counterweights, and balanced. But they cost as much as the entire car. For me, engine vibration is part of the model t experience.

BTW, the bolt-on counterweights you refer to are still being made. If one of those lets loose, it’s gonna be tits.

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Fri Aug 21, 2020 7:53 am
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Came across this pix this morning and had to share.
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Mon Sep 07, 2020 6:01 am
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I won’t be racing him.


Mon Sep 07, 2020 9:18 am
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When we last left the Model T, it had a cracked block and needed a new engine. Here is a reminder:

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First job was to pull the engine. To do that, the manifolds, starter and generator were removed. Then the steering column had to come out.

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Next is the torque tube and driveshaft. The driveshaft is the skinny solid rod. It rotates inside the torque tube. They attach to the rear of the auxiliary transmission and the differential

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Then the head is put back on loosely and a lifting loop screwed into one of the spark plug holes. With an overhead crane and a bit of jostling and tipping, out it came

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Next up the old engine gets torn down and we will see what can be saved.


Mon Feb 07, 2022 3:22 pm
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I must have missed the part about the cracked block before! Any luck finding a good one?

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Mon Feb 07, 2022 3:56 pm
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usrifle wrote:
I must have missed the part about the cracked block before! Any luck finding a good one?

Yep. Located a good used block. More to come on that soon


Mon Feb 07, 2022 4:11 pm
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Every bit as good to watch as a ricer turbo or BBC build!! Only BETTER!

I'm riveted!! :bigsmile: :thumbsup2: :wagwoot:

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Mon Feb 07, 2022 5:35 pm
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:wagwoot:

Right on!

Been missing this thread. Sorry I can't be there to help out

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Mon Feb 07, 2022 6:31 pm
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Arisaka wrote:
I won’t be racing him.



:ROFLMAO:


Glad to see new updates! :thumbsup2:


Mon Feb 07, 2022 8:23 pm
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Got a good look at the engine today. Here it is before teardown

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First thing was to pull the head back off.

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I will be replacing this head with a high compression head, which increases compression ratio from 4:1 up to 6:1. Back in the 20s, gas was of such poor quality that compression had to be reduced. Ford actually derated compression from 4.5:1 to 4:1 about 3 years into production because of the gas problem. With today's gas, 6:1 or even 8:1 compression ratios are possible. This gives a big increase in power, well above the 20 hp Model T's left the factory with.


Here is a look I had at the pistons before the engine was pulled

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I was able to take a closer look at the pistons with the engine out, and they were rattling around in their bores. The rings were not compressed. Which explains the crappy compression I got before teardown. A new model T engine will generate about 50 psi compression. I was measuring around 12-15 psi. Part of that loss was due to the piston rings not sealing and part was due to leaky valves. The result was I was getting probably 10-12 hp out of my old engine.


Here is an old block that my buddy had laying around. Interesting that a spider crawled up the tailpipe, through the open exhaust valve, and fell into the combustion chamber forevermore.

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Back to my engine, here you can see one of the cracks in the block, traveling from a valve seat to a cylinder

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Now it was time to unbolt the auxiliary Warford transmission from the Ford transmission. Here is what the Warford looks like when installed in the truck.

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These auxiliary transmissions were an aftermarket add-on, and provided both an under-drive and over-drive. And they are all cast iron and steel. Small, but weigh about 80 lbs.

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With that done, the next job is to remove the upper transmission cover, called the hogshead.

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Here is one of the transmission bands. The Model T has three bands, Reverse, Low and Brake. The wide drum is the brake drum, the middle is Low and the other end is reverse. Before 1926, all the drums were the same size. Ford increased the brake drum width in 1926 to provide better braking and to prevent the drum from cracking due to heat from braking. The reverse drum spins in the opposite direction than the other drums. When you push on the reverse pedal, the reverse band clamps around the reverse drum and you go backwards. When you press down on the low pedal, the band grabs the low drum and you move forward in low gear. Halfway up on the low pedal is neutral, which is like a typical standard transmission clutch pedal pushed all the way down. If you let up the Model T low pedal, the band releases the drum and you are now in high gear. High gear is direct drive in a Model T.

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Then the oil pan comes off. The oil pan covers the bottom of both the engine and transmission. The transmission and engine share the same lubrication - 30 wt. oil. No tranny fluid in a Model T. These pans are held on with about a hundred bolts with castle nuts and cotter pins. Another weird thing about Model T oil pans is that the weight of the engine/transmission assembly causes the pan to bend over time. Happens so often that there is a special jig to re-straighten them.

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Time to remove the valves, springs and cross pins. Here are the exhaust and intake valves

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The valve stems are held in place by a cross pin, not keepers as are the design today. Here is an upside down pic showing the cross pins

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Here are the valves removed

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With the valves out, the next job is to pull the ford transmission

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It takes a special wrench to access the 4 bolts holding the transmission to the engine

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Here are pics of the trans coming off

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Here is the magneto. It generates electricity to run the engine. I won't be reusing a magneto. I will run off the battery and generator.

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Here is the engine block with the transmission removed

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Next we will get into the bottom end


Tue Feb 08, 2022 10:47 am
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Wow....Great Pics and writeup! :bow: I'll be watching this thread closely, you have skills brother. :thumbsup2:

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Tue Feb 08, 2022 11:28 am
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Very interesting explanation about the transmission bands. thumbsup

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Tue Feb 08, 2022 12:56 pm
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Probably a good time to see if you have or can get an EE (1926/27 crank) since they are stronger. What are your thoughts on the bolt on counterweights? They seem to be a really polarizing upgrade in the model t world


Tue Feb 08, 2022 4:34 pm
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shaggy wrote:
Probably a good time to see if you have or can get an EE (1926/27 crank) since they are stronger. What are your thoughts on the bolt on counterweights? They seem to be a really polarizing upgrade in the model t world

The EE-marked cranes were carbon steel. The AA-marked cranks were alloy steel. Some people believe the EE cranks, made in 1926, have better fatigue resistance. Some people say they aren’t any better. Everybody agrees that your best bet is to find a crank that will clean up at no more than .020/.020. In other words, no more than 0.020 inch ground off the bearing and rod journal diameters. And magnaflux it first!

Model T cranks are notoriously under-designed. Anything you do to weaken it, or overload it, is a bad idea. Crank weights are another topic of discussion. Some say they balance the crank and reduce vibrations and fatigue. Others say it’s just more rotating mass that a weak crank does not need. Everybody says the best route is to buy a new Scat crank, which is pre-balanced. But those run about $2k.

I will see what shape my old crank is in, and if I need a replacement. Based on the general condition of the engine, I expect the crank journals to be worn out. If that is the case, I will look for a crank that will clean up at .020/.020. I won’t be using weights. Not saying they are bad, but I’m concerned about that mass spinning around with a crank that has already been ground.


Tue Feb 08, 2022 5:30 pm
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