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 1926 Model TT Restoration: Engine/Trans Rebuild 
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usrifle wrote:
Arisaka wrote:
delliottg wrote:
I don't know if it's kosher for a restoration, but you might want to pick up some Ospho for the rusty bits that are hard to get to. Hit it as best you can with a wire brush, clean it up to remove grease, oil, and big chunks and brush some Ospho over it. The phosphoric acid provides a chemical bond to the rust and acts as a primer. Once it turns black, you're ready to paint.

Good Tip! This is far from a factory perfect restoration. This is a get it back on the road and haul stuff with it like god and Henry Ford intended restoration.

Well I’m also going to mount a replica 1917 browning in the bed, which Henry probably never thought of. But he should have.


Oh Hell yeah! That Old Truck with a Belt fed in the bed? :bow:

Hmmmm.....someone on here has a Semi-Auto version, i think video of the Truck driving and Slinging Lead is in order here. :thumbsup2:

If anybody here has a semi auto 1917 Browning, I would sure like to get some dimensions, drawings, photos or whatever. Have had no luck on the web finding anything with dimensions

And hell yeah, you are very welcome to sling lead from the bed of my old truck!!


Sun Feb 24, 2019 10:22 pm
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I ran across this random posting on CL for model T parts. I'm just gonna drop it here for you as a possible local source. Dunno what all they have available, but you never know.

https://seattle.craigslist.org/kit/bar/ ... 61734.html


Mon Feb 25, 2019 9:30 am
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RockHopper wrote:
I ran across this random posting on CL for model T parts. I'm just gonna drop it here for you as a possible local source. Dunno what all they have available, but you never know.

https://seattle.craigslist.org/kit/bar/ ... 61734.html

Thank you sir!


Mon Feb 25, 2019 5:22 pm
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Some discussion and solution regarding pulling a stubborn wheel :
http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/50 ... 1430731837


Wed Feb 27, 2019 4:34 pm
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Before I get into the bearing grief I ran into today, a question popped up in the What pissed you off today thread. I was bitching about a wheel puller tool I needed. Got lots of ideas and,questions

Q1: how big is the hub and what is the thread pitch?: The front hub is 2 1/8 x 24 tpi. The back is 2.5 x 24. Well it looks the same as the front thread pitch anyway. So, these are fairly big threaded pieces

Q2: how does hub puller work? Here is a pic of the front and rear pullers

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The process is to loosen the clamping bolt, thread on the puller, and then tighten the clamping bolt. At that point you can start cranking on the back bolt to bear down on the spindle. Usually you have to crank it down, smack the back of it with a small sledge, crank some more, bfh it again. Repeat until something gives, hopefully the wheel hub and not the tool.

A trick for sticky ones is to back off the spindle nut a turn or two and drive in circles with the wheel on the inside of the turn. Another approach is to jack up the opposite side when using the puller. Both these approaches put an outward load on the wheel to pull it off the spindle. Anyway, that’s what I have read.

Back in my world, it turns out that the 1926-27 Ts have a different design, with inner roller bearings, and threaded outer roller bearings. You have to screw off the outer bearings to remove the wheel. This explains why I was not able to just pull the wheel off. Once I unscrewed the outer bearing, the wheel flopped right off. The rears do need a puller, but I was able to borrow one form a Model T guy who has rebuilt my starter, generator and carb. Nice guy. Model T guys are like gun guys, always willing to help you out!

I addressed the drivers front wheel first because it was dangerously sloppy. The outer roller bearing was bad, and the inner was worse. Total junk. The passenger side was in much better shape. Interestingly, the pax side spindle is LH thread and the drivers side spindle is RH thread. So, different part numbers. All are Timken roller bearings. Here are some pics

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And the totally clapped out bearings in close up

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I will probably have to order replacement bearings and wait for them to arrive, but I will check around local using the timken part numbers.

Next up today was the fan bearing. It had too much wiggle and too much in/out play.

It’s easy to get off, and simple to replace the worn bearings. Trying to get ahead of the parts availability issue, I had two new bearings ready to press in

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But it was not to be. Here is the fan pulley in various stages of disassembly

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Here is the front bearing. A split bearing which was a surprise. Looks to be a make-do fix

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Here is the rear bearing - Wait! There is no rear bearing!!

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Apparently somebody has removed the rear bearing, and cast in a Babbitt replacement. If you look close you can see the joint between the Babbitt and the aluminum hub.

The only reason I can imagine for doing this, is to repair a hub which was so damaged a bearing wouldn’t fit snugly. Although this repair worked, it did not have the thrust bearing part, or the “brim” of the top-hat shaped bearing. So, several red brass shims were added to take up the slop. I will need a new hub. Finally, the felt seal that’s supposed to keep grease in the hub was almost disintegrated. It’s the black squiggly thing in the pic below

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So the box score for today is Model T ahead 2-0. Here is what I have now:

A pile of parts

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And a model T with no front shoes

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Last edited by Arisaka on Thu Apr 25, 2019 6:25 pm, edited 2 times in total.



Wed Feb 27, 2019 4:49 pm
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pre-48 fords use a similar puller on the rear, only it hooks to a lip on the drum. Been there, done that a few times. Make sure you torque the rear wheels on at whatever the torque spec is(on later rears it is something like 200ft lbs!!!). Otherwise you can shear the key under acceleration. The taper is supposed to help lock it in place. I've heard of oldtimers talking about carrying a spare axle key in their glove box and replacing it regularly because they were doing it wrong.

Still the hardest in my opinion is getting the spring shackle out of the front axle. I had a '32 ford axle that sounded like a .22 going off each time it moved them in a hydralic press, and it did it like 6 or 7 times before it was loose


Wed Feb 27, 2019 7:32 pm
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Went up to visit the Model T guru in Burien and got some parts I needed, including fan hub and bearings, and a set of wheel bearings.

Here are the fan parts

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Here is a closer look at the old hub and new hub. Actually the new hub is still 90 years old

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And here is the fan installed

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Picked up a set of bearings for a great price. These are $250 a set new! Got ‘em for $40. Second pic is what was in my truck

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Tomorrow I pack those new bearings and get my front wheels back on.

Last thing I did today was mount my rebuilt generator and carb.

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This weekend is wiring and ignition


Last edited by Arisaka on Sat Mar 02, 2019 8:10 am, edited 1 time in total.



Thu Feb 28, 2019 5:23 pm
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For proper wiring, I use brillman a lot, they have some pretty good vintage stuff, but then again you can probably get a full harness for pretty cheap


Thu Feb 28, 2019 6:50 pm
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What was wrong with the old front wheel bearings? Did you clean them up and inspect them? They dont look that bad.


Thu Feb 28, 2019 8:12 pm
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Old Growth wrote:
What was wrong with the old front wheel bearings? Did you clean them up and inspect them? They dont look that bad.

The inner bearing just came apart when I was inspecting it. I think it was held together by hardened grease. The outer (smaller) bearing was very sloppy, with the inner race almost coming out.

The bearings I got today are in much better condition. I’m going to swap out the original bearings. I will keep as spares any that survive cleaning.


Thu Feb 28, 2019 8:29 pm
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Fascinating thread. Thks for sharing and the explanations behind photos!

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Fri Mar 01, 2019 7:46 am
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Today’s goal was to get the front wheels back on and inspect the front suspension.

Job 1 was to clean about 3 pounds of caked on grease from inside the hubs. Here is a look at one of the front wheels before and after

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Then I cleaned up the spindles. The old bearings were not great. This one ended up in the garbage can

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Needed new seals of course. One of the old seals has aluminum foil wrapped around it, either to help it seal, or as a shim to get the seal to fit tightly in the hub.

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I think it was the latter, because that hub was a bit over sized. I had to take a center punch and dimple out the skirt on the new seal to get it to fit tightly in the hub.

Cleaned and packed the inner and outer roller bearings for each side. Installed the inner followed by the seal. Looked like this

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Then onto the spindle it goes. Then thread on the outer roller bearing and snug it down well. Back it off a half turn or so. Then follow that with the washer, castle nut and cotter pin. Finally, the hubcap screws on.

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And one side done!

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I noticed that the wheel had too much wobble when held at the 12 and 6 o’clock position and rocked. I tracked the slop down to where the spindle is attached to the front axle. I could get a .036 feeler gage in there. Not optimum.

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My model T mentor, Bill, told me how to fix that. Remove the lower castle nut and then tighten down on the long bolt that attaches the spindle. Like this

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Then replace the lower castle nut and cotter pin. That did the trick! Both sides nice and tight now

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Last job was to address the crankshaft pulley. The fan belt connects this pulley to the fan, thereby rotating the fan. Problem is, this crankshaft pulley has insufficient crown to keep the belt on. This has been a problem forever, as you can see from the non-factory belt guides my dad installed

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So I pulled those belt guides off, and then drove out the cross pin holding the pulley onto the crankshaft.

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Due to the front end design I couldn’t get a 3 jaw puller on the pulley. But, with some prying and swearing it came off. My screwdriver is bigger than yours and I’m not afraid to use it.

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Here are the parts. You have probably figured this out, but the famous model T hand crank engages the pulley cross pin to rotate the crank and start the engine

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Last item on today’s list was to lube the front end. There are oil cups above the front end joints, that hold a reservoir of oil that then gravity feeds to the joint. Here is an oil cup

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Sometimes all there is, is a hole

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So I filled everything up, waited for the oil to drain into the joints, and refilled twice more. Truck was thirsty after all this time.

Tomorrow is wiring and a new crankshaft pulley. My son is coming over to help!!


Fri Mar 01, 2019 5:26 pm
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Nicely done

Thanks for posting all the detailed photos and write up

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Fri Mar 01, 2019 6:06 pm
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Come over and help any time, Scott! I am in your area.


Fri Mar 01, 2019 6:09 pm
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For sure, I'd love to come over and see it

Maybe tomorrow if you're going to be around, I have to go work on a boat in Seattle today

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Sat Mar 02, 2019 8:12 am
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