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It is currently Thu Apr 18, 2024 3:21 am
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1926 Model TT Restoration: Engine/Trans Rebuild
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MadPick
Site Admin
Location: Renton, WA Joined: Sun Mar 13, 2011 Posts: 52030
Real Name: Steve
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Dude, that is going to be SO COOL when you take that first drive down the road!
WaGuns members lining the street . . . ?
_________________SteveBenefactor Life Member, National Rifle AssociationLife Member, Second Amendment FoundationPatriot & Life Member, Gun Owners of AmericaLife Member, Citizens Committee for the Right to Keep and Bear ArmsLegal Action Supporter, Firearms Policy CoalitionMember, NAGR/NFGRPlease support the organizations that support all of us.Leave it cleaner than you found it.
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Wed Apr 17, 2019 7:26 pm |
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Arisaka
Site Supporter
Location: Tacoma Joined: Sat May 4, 2013 Posts: 6214
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MadPick wrote: Dude, that is going to be SO COOL when you take that first drive down the road!
WaGuns members lining the street . . . ? Well, they will if Jacy brings the expensive bourbon!
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Wed Apr 17, 2019 7:40 pm |
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Traut
Site Supporter
Location: Downtown Newcastle Joined: Sat Mar 5, 2016 Posts: 3447
Real Name: Traut
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MadPick wrote: Dude, that is going to be SO COOL when you take that first drive down the road!
WaGuns members lining the street . . . ? 21 gun salute, minimum.
_________________ I always thought growing old would take a lot longer.....
So, when does that "Old enough to know better" shit kick in??? I've learned that pleasing everyone is impossible, but pissing everyone off is a piece of cake.
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Wed Apr 17, 2019 8:20 pm |
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shaggy
Site Supporter
Location: Snohomish Co Joined: Thu Sep 13, 2018 Posts: 1811
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I think i already mentioned it, but make sure you torque the rear brakes down to whatever godaweful spec they say to. The tapered-key setup only works if there is proper pressure pushing the drum into the taper. It was the biggest failure of early v-8 rears in the day. I've talked to old timers that "kept an axle key in the glovebox", and ive seen my share of old axles that are scared up, including the '37 that is under the roadster i'm building now.
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Thu Apr 18, 2019 9:48 pm |
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Arisaka
Site Supporter
Location: Tacoma Joined: Sat May 4, 2013 Posts: 6214
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shaggy wrote: I think i already mentioned it, but make sure you torque the rear brakes down to whatever godaweful spec they say to. The tapered-key setup only works if there is proper pressure pushing the drum into the taper. It was the biggest failure of early v-8 rears in the day. I've talked to old timers that "kept an axle key in the glovebox", and ive seen my share of old axles that are scared up, including the '37 that is under the roadster i'm building now. I got a big tool shaggy, and I will yank on it mightily! Thank you for the good advice you always have, sir! Clearly you have been under a car or two in your day!
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Thu Apr 18, 2019 9:58 pm |
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gscott
Site Supporter
Location: Thurston Joined: Tue Oct 28, 2014 Posts: 672
Real Name: yup
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Seat belts weren't standard equipment until 1964. Not the 50s. So screw that! We don't need no gubmint telling us how to live! And your car only goes 45 mph. Hydraulic brakes on a Ford? WTF? Desoto invented them, about 1931. But Ford didn't use them for years, you don't need that new fangled crap! Rod actuated brakes is all you need!
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Thu Apr 18, 2019 11:07 pm |
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Arisaka
Site Supporter
Location: Tacoma Joined: Sat May 4, 2013 Posts: 6214
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gscott wrote: Seat belts weren't standard equipment until 1964. Not the 50s. So screw that! We don't need no gubmint telling us how to live! And your car only goes 45 mph. Hydraulic brakes on a Ford? WTF? Desoto invented them, about 1931. But Ford didn't use them for years, you don't need that new fangled crap! Rod actuated brakes is all you need! Well on the brakes I will have to disagree. Having some model t drive time under my belt, and having disassembled them, I feel much better with juice brakes. And sadly, my truck can’t make 45 mph even in ford high and warford overdrive. I have had it up to 35 flat out going downhill though. Felt like it was going to shake my teeth out!
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Fri Apr 19, 2019 7:56 am |
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Arisaka
Site Supporter
Location: Tacoma Joined: Sat May 4, 2013 Posts: 6214
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Well, the roller bearings aren’t going to come out without splitting the differential case, and I don’t want to do that. I will just drive the truck until the bearings won’t take any more. Unfortunately, this means I also can’t replace the inner axle seal, but I’m going to have to live with that too. All that’s left is to get a new outer seal kit, which I ordered today. It consists of a half-inch thick felt ring sandwiched between a washer and the cup that fits around the axle housing. It slides over the axle stub and the cup is tapped on to the housing. It’s purpose is to keep grease out of the emergency brake assembly. Here is the old outer seal coming off The new seal will look like this Turned my attention to the emergency brakes and backing plate. They were covered in so much grease I couldn’t tell what I had. The e-brake shoes are connected to the actuating lever by a linkage. The shoes can be removed by disconnecting that linkage. The other end of the shoes are spring loaded to clamp around a post. Very similar to more modern brake shoe designs. You just “fold up” the shoes to collapse the spring and lift the shoes off to expose the backing plate. I dropped both sets of shoes into a container of gas to soak overnight, and went to work cleaning up the backing plate. The shoes got a good wire brushing in gas, and a plastic brush to the lining material. Here they are cleaned up One of the four shoes was a factory part, per the Ford script mark you can barely make out here That’s all I can do until the seals and hydraulic brake kit arrives. The brake kit uses all new bolts, so no use in reassembling the emergency brakes now. My model t buddy came down today to take a look at the roller bearings, and also gave the truck a once over. He showed me several add-ons my truck had that were not factory. But they were all good things to have. He also suggested I move the ignition coil from its current position by the manifold to keep it cooler. Finally he showed me that the front wishbone is worn out. The wishbone keeps the front axle from racking and is critical to good handling. One end bolts to each side of the front axle and the other is held by a cup at the transmission hogshead. Here is a pic of one. The cars and trucks used the same wishbone The ball on the end of the wishbone is the wear point. It goes from circular to oval as it wears, and introduces a lot of front axle slop. Here is my wishbone still installed in the truck Here is where the problem is My buddy has both the wishbone and the cup assembly. My next job is to remove my wishbone and cup assembly, and head up to my buddy’s place for a replacement in better shape. I’m sure all will go smoothly, and nary a problem will crop up.
Last edited by Arisaka on Wed May 08, 2019 9:52 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Fri Apr 19, 2019 11:21 am |
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shaggy
Site Supporter
Location: Snohomish Co Joined: Thu Sep 13, 2018 Posts: 1811
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Arisaka wrote: I got a big tool shaggy, and I will yank on it mightily!
Thank you for the good advice you always have, sir! Clearly you have been under a car or two in your day! I'm actually a relatively young guy at 34, but i've been heavy into this stuff for a long time. As for the brakes, i'm not that up on model t mechanicals, but i could imagine on a heavy rig like that they may not be worth a crap, but i know the '32 brakes a friend of mine had under his roadster stopped pretty good, but ofcourse that is a totally different critter. I also saw him regularly crawl under it with a wrench to adjust them until he got them all dialed in togather.
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Fri Apr 19, 2019 5:23 pm |
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Arisaka
Site Supporter
Location: Tacoma Joined: Sat May 4, 2013 Posts: 6214
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Was looking at Craigslist for something entirely unrelated, and stumbled across this Thought it would look cool in the bed of the Model TT truck, so I spring for the $75 and bought it. Here are some more views The previous owner just started to mess with it. He installed some zerks and greased it. I will be taking it completely apart. It operates, but I need to figure out how to mount the pawl, which is laying loose now. No apparent mounting holes for it. Might add a spring to the pawl. It looks to be gravity actuated right now. Also need to build some sort of cradle or mount for it. Need to elevate it some so the crank handle will clear the ground. Then some angle iron under the bed of the Model TT to anchor it. What I am going for is the look of some sort of recovery winch. This winch will probably never do any real work, but I’m hoping it will end up looking as if it could. Thinking of mounting it behind the cab, but am open to all suggestions on how and where to mount it. Give me some ideas! More to come on this bad boy!
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Sun Apr 21, 2019 6:39 pm |
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RENCORP
Site Supporter
Location: East of Japan, not by much. Joined: Fri Jun 3, 2011 Posts: 12990
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Thanks to your project, I spotted a familiar shape in a box of junk at a garage sale on the weekend - an original Ford truck worm gear axle jack in perfect operating condition ! No jack handle, but for a couple of bucks, I scored a cool paperweight for the shop work bench. I'll post some pics soon.
_________________ Give a man a fish, and he will eat for a day. Give a man a fishing pole, and he will drink too much beer, get tangled in fish line, hook himself in the nose casting, fall overboard, and either drown, or, go home hungry and wet. Give a man a case of dynamite, and he will feed the whole town for a year!
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Mon Apr 22, 2019 8:42 am |
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Arisaka
Site Supporter
Location: Tacoma Joined: Sat May 4, 2013 Posts: 6214
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RENCORP wrote: Thanks to your project, I spotted a familiar shape in a box of junk at a garage sale on the weekend - an original Ford truck worm gear axle jack in perfect operating condition ! No jack handle, but for a couple of bucks, I scored a cool paperweight for the shop work bench. I'll post some pics soon. If you paid anything less than $50 you did well!
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Tue Apr 23, 2019 8:28 pm |
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Arisaka
Site Supporter
Location: Tacoma Joined: Sat May 4, 2013 Posts: 6214
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The front wishbone (radius rod) keeps the front axle from racking. Here it is The legs of the wishbone bolt to each side of the front axle. The other (ball) end of the wishbone fits in a cup riveted to the oil pan. Mine was worn out and needing replacing. The part that wears is the ball on the end of the wishbone, and the cup it rests in. In my case, the ball diameter varied by 0.040 inch depending on which axis measured. The cap that holds the ball was also very worn. The cap should contact the ball tightly. Here is mine, and you can see the sloppy fit. Picked up a new wishbone at my buddy’s place. Here is the old one in back, and the new wishbone in front Removal consists of two 15/16 nuts in the front, and two 9/16 nuts at the cap. My cap was too hammered to reuse, and the mount riveted to the pan was also worn. This pic is a little dark, but you can see the mount Wear in this mount is common problem, and aftermarket caps were made to take up the slop. Here is the original cap (top) and an adjustable cap. The adjustable cap has a spring loaded pad that you snug down with a large set screw The new wishbone gets loosely bolted to the front axle, and the ball-end is jacked up to set it in the mount Then the adjustable cap is bolted on Model T’s live on axle grease and cotter pins. The wishbone took 5 cotter pins. One each at the front axle nuts, two at the cap nuts, and one to secure the cap adjusting screw One more job done. Hopefully this will make the old girl handle better. I remember she used to wiggle all over the road at any speed over 20 mph. Next up is Part 2 of the hand winch. Still to come is installation of hydraulic brakes and radiator.
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Wed Apr 24, 2019 3:41 pm |
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Arisaka
Site Supporter
Location: Tacoma Joined: Sat May 4, 2013 Posts: 6214
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Thu Apr 25, 2019 3:56 pm |
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Arisaka
Site Supporter
Location: Tacoma Joined: Sat May 4, 2013 Posts: 6214
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Slow vehicles are often equipped with flashing yellow lights. Since my truck cannot exceed 30 mph except in free fall, I thought I would figure out some lights that would fit in with my military theme. Picked up four flashing yellow led lights from amazon. They run on AA batteries and have magnets on the back. But when I tested the magnets they weren’t that strong. A rough ride (and that’s what a Model TT provides in spades) can cause them to slide down and fall off. So some kind of bracket was required to keep them in place. And, something that also looked like a fog light with a lens guard would be in keeping with the military theme. Looking around the shop, I found a wire stand that held up my No on 1639 yard sign Chopped it up into 5 inch lengths and threaded each end to 8-32 Then bent each rod 90 degrees Into the vise to hold it, then bend the legs inward to vertical, and then downward Ended up with this Squirted some paint on them Now it was time for the mounting plates. Scrounged some steel from some used 4 x 6 stirrup brackets. The rear mounts were cleaned up, bent to 90 degrees and painted Then the brackets were added Here is what the rear lights look like on the truck The front mounts were pretty simple, and were made from the same scrap as the rear mounts Here they are mounted to the front bumper Next up is the hydraulic brakes. That’s going to be a big job.
Last edited by Arisaka on Fri Apr 26, 2019 5:57 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Fri Apr 26, 2019 4:33 pm |
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