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 Truck buying tips, especially in Washington 
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Sharing what I did when I moved.

I purchased a 8.5x20 ft continental trailer from Bulldog Trailers. Paid $5700 plus tax and license.
After 5 trips out here, I was finished, so I sold the trailer locally for $4900.

It was nice to load it up without a time clock ticking on renting a uhaul.

Had I rented a Uhaul it would have been $700 x 5 trips. ($3500)

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Wed Sep 18, 2019 3:52 am
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sportsdad60 wrote:
Sharing what I did when I moved.

I purchased a 8.5x20 ft continental trailer from Bulldog Trailers. Paid $5700 plus tax and license.
After 5 trips out here, I was finished, so I sold the trailer locally for $4900.

It was nice to load it up without a time clock ticking on renting a uhaul.

Had I rented a Uhaul it would have been $700 x 5 trips. ($3500)


Exactly, and a component of my plan too. Owning a valuable asset is smarter generally than renting something. Can probably buy a trailer here, use it for the move, and sell it on the back end for a wash.

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Wed Sep 18, 2019 8:11 am
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10-15 for a good diesel? Not going to happen.
You can pick up 15k diesel trucks all day long, and drop another few k into it to be mostly dependable, but you are still chasing someone else's beat truck that they're unloading.
I've been doing diesel work since I was a kid in the late seventies and still doing it.

Stick to a gas rig, you'll get more for the dollar and cheaper to maintain.
What you are willing to pay puts you in a market of a well used diesel that'll just cost you more to make and keep running.


Wed Sep 18, 2019 8:48 am
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Sinus211 wrote:
mmalleck wrote:
Sinus211 wrote:


mmalleck wrote:
A little above your budget, but cash talks :)
https://www.motorsnorthwest.com/vehicle ... d-31560854


That's a pretty truck but you couldn't pay me to buy a Ford 6.0. Google "Ford 6.0 head fix"


CarFax shows head gasket was already replaced. Also Ford certified vehicle.

At the dealership with factory parts? (Aka the same ones that failed in the first place) It needs the bulletproof kit before I’d trust it.

She pretty though!


There's 3 ways to do 6.0 head gaskets. Wrong way, right way and either insurance or warranty way.
What I've seen, wrong way sometimes is better than the warranty or insurance way.

For the record, I have worked on a ton of 6.0's. had 40 of them in my fleet at one time. I equate the 6.0 to an old Chev 350 in ease and simplicity of working on. They can be a headache at times, but for cost to power ratio they are phenomenal.
Do a couple of updates, know what you are doing and do it right, they're easily 400k mile engine's. I have a few a there.
Now Chevs? Those 6.6's were my replacements to get older 6.0's out of the fleet. You'd have to threaten with murdering my family before I'd own a Chev diesel, and even then I'd have to think about it. Between the engine and cheap assed interior and seats, Chev has gone downhill hard.


Wed Sep 18, 2019 8:58 am
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Dude just rent a truck as usrifle showed you it's not as much as you think it is. Then buy a gas full size or Tacoma after you get settled. You're going to spend more than the cost of a Rental to get a diesel over a gas, and it seems like you wouldnt need a diesel except to move

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Wed Sep 18, 2019 9:03 am
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I think the bottom line is he just wants a Truck so the Rental cost thing is just some justification to buy one. :wink05:

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Wed Sep 18, 2019 10:03 am
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Sinus211 wrote:
Pvanderzee wrote:
There's a lot of happy 3/4-ton and 1-ton gasser truck owners out there, myself being one of them, with a 2006 F250 with a 5.4L gas V8. Fuel economy is worse, but maintenance is lighter. I've also only put about 16k miles on the thing in the last three years. With a gasser, that isn't an issue. But diesels like to be ran, and ran hard every once in a while, particularly ones with EGRs, DPFs, etc. A low-mileage used gasser from the era you specified will do the job you are asking about, and it will be considerably cheaper than a diesel.

How’s your cam phaser on that 5.4? She ticking yet?


Not yet, and I've heard mixed thoughts on those. Some say it's the fault of bad timing chain guides, some say it's people using the wrong oil, some say it's the fault of the phaser itself. Who knows. I had an F150 for a couple years before getting a 3/4-ton. 2007, same motor, no tick there either, put about 20k on it. So I've only got about 40k altogether into that kind of V8. There's still time. Most of the time I'm either in a '98 4cyl ranger with manual everything, or a 2016 Fusion 2.0 turbo. The big truck is only here to pull my twin-axle cargo trailer around.


As others have said, LC, you're going to have trouble finding a quality diesel for $15k unless you go old. Like, late 80's or early 90's old. Coworker just sold his 2000 Chevy 2500 Duramax with about 220k on it for like $12k.

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Wed Sep 18, 2019 6:26 pm
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Sinus211 wrote:
If you see a vehicle being sold by a dealership check the sales tax rates in their area before heading out. 2% isn't much when buying consumables but can add $200-$300 to the price of a $10k-$15k vehicle.

Never buy a vehicle from a small private lot. They are generally bad news.

If buying private take the damn thing to a mechanic before you make an offer on it. A couple hundred bucks paid for a good inspection could save you thousands on costly repairs that you don't know the vehicle needs. It also gives you info to bargain with the seller and get them to lower their asking price. Seriously, don't cheap out on this part.

Don't expect anything fancy. $10k-$15k is a very low budget for a quality diesel truck. Not to mention the turn of the century trucks are some of the most sought after. The Ford 7.3, the Dodge 5.9 12 or 24 valve, the Chevy LBZ motor with the Allison transmission. These are all going to be very high priced or very high mileage due to their reputations for reliability.

Remember that even though diesel engines tend to go for a lot of miles, other parts on the truck itself wear out a lot faster. A diesel engine with 200k miles may still have a long life ahead of it, but when is the last time the tranny was rebuilt? Have they done suspension/running gear maintenance? (shocks/bearings/u joints) Have they been good about changing fluids? (brakes/steering/differentials/transmission)

Don't buy a truck that has been chipped. Generally that means they drove it like an asshole or spent a lot of time towing with it.

Where has the truck lived? Has it been west coast all of its life? Or is it an east coast/middle America rust bucket?

How many owners? Less is better. 1 owner is best. A 1 owner truck was generally loved and treated right. Too many owners means too many assholes have sat behind the wheel.

Don't buy a lifted truck if you don't need it. Lifts and larger wheels/tires put extra stress on the running gear and wear it out faster. In fact, if you don't need 4wd look at 2wd diesels. They tow just as well and will be significantly cheaper than a 4wd.

This is just the stuff that came to mind immediately, there's more that'll come to me later.

You sure you want to buy a diesel with only a $10k-$15k budget? That's awfully light for a diesel truck. Have you looked at maintenance costs on diesels and trucks in general? They are significantly more expensive to maintain than cars.

IMO up your budget or rent a moving truck then purchase a vehicle in your destination state. Preferably a state without sales tax. That's my $1.05 on the subject.


Sounds like my pickup, but its not for sale and its not a Diesel. Instead, it has an 8.1L gas engine and a 6 speed manual transmission. Great advice above.

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Wed Sep 18, 2019 6:57 pm
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No way in hell would I buy a truck (gas or diesel) and then start making working loads over a few passes and two/three states right off the bat. I dont trust anything "used" until its earned my trust.

I dont think the greatest way to learn towing a trailer is with a full/heavy load over three states either.


Wed Sep 18, 2019 9:50 pm
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I've owned mainly fords and have a lot of friends that are diesel mechanics (and owning a machine shop means I end up making or repairing parts for them) and this is my two cents on ford trucks and what i've found.

If its gas-

1998-2002 5.4 tritons are the way to go, as they came with the 4r100 transmission (same one behind the 7.3 diesels) and are direct gear on cam motors (no cam phasers or problems that come with them), just make sure the spark plugs are factory and CORRECTLY torqued because they are notorious for spitting aftermarket/budget plugs or stripping out if they are over torqued. The 4.6's in the f-150's are the same motor with a shorter block but the transmissions are pretty weak and start failing after 150k-ish. I have a expedition with the 5.4 as my daily and get 14.2mpg (expect 7-9mpg if you tow), so get used to stopping at every gas station you see.

2003/4-2008 4.6/5.4 tritons are the ones with the cam phaser issues. Ford claimed to have fixed it in 2005 and "warrantied" the older ones but there are ALOT of older rigs that never got fixed and at higher miles, they all start developing problems. You rarely find these motors with over 200,000 that aren't ticking like a 1920's type writer.

2009-current 4.6/5.0/5.4/6.2 have no serious issues and the transmissions are solid. Maintenance is the single most important thing for them, as they will die extremely quickly if abused. If they ever suck dirt, they are notorious for eating valves and having top end failures. Making sure it wasn't a company/mining/logging truck is the very first thing to do and if it is, don't touch it. My brother owns a 4.6 with 210,00 and has only done plugs, a transmission service and regular oil changes since it rolled off the lot in 2008.

Ecoboost motors- one of the best motors ford has made but it's all aluminum, so head gasket repairs are extremely expensive and often require cylinder head replacement due to a lack of tolerance for milling/resurfacing. The turbos are known to last about 150,000 miles and cost a couple grand to get replaced, so if it's a higher mile rig, factor that in (I know a guy that has 220,000 and has done nothing but plugs and oil changes, so they certainly can go longer but 150,000 seems to be when turbo's start to die). We personally have a truck with this motor (146,000 miles) and it has been one of the best rigs we've owned but the potential for getting an abused one would make me proceed with extreme caution in the used market.

If it's diesel-

7.3 IDI (1994.5 and earlier) have serious cavitation and cylinder wall pin holing problems. SCA was created to deal with this problem and it does exactly that but there are ALOT of these rigs with damaged blocks. When they break through, the only way to repair it is to pull the whole motor, tear it all the way down and re-sleeve the block.

7.3 powerstroke (1994.5-1997) These are the most sought after of all the powerstrokes. They had all forged internals, low turbo pressures, mechanical lift pumps and 5 speed manual transmission option. They are old school meaning limited comforts but are easy to work on (for a diesel), you can get to everything and can run forever. There are ALOT of 300,000+ mile rigs and at this point and its hard to tell if they are 300,000 or 400,000 or 500,000 mile rigs because the odometers on these rigs only went to 399,999 and will roll back to 300,000 (they are digital and ford never put in the 4-9 first diget pixels and just programmed them to roll back to 300,000), so be super careful when looking at them and gauging how many miles it actually has if the first odometer digit is a "3". If abused or neglected they will cost you a fortune. I bought one (1996 f250 extended cab long bed) a year and a half ago from the original owner with 136,000 miles and it shortly began dying- injectors ($5,000), injector cups and head gaskets ($5,000), lift pump ($300), water pump/radiator/lines ($1,200), transmission seals ($700), so I sold it before I had more issues. Mileage means less than maintenance for these rigs, so don't be scared of the odometer but make sure it doesn't have issues (a $200-500 independent inspection at a good diesel shop is recommended for any oil burner and is alot less painful then finding out it needs serious repairs after you get it home).

7.3 powerstroke (1999-2003) Same as above but they have the super duty body, the 4r100 transmissions, electronic lift pump and are intercooled. The odometers are true to 999,999 but it's not uncommon for people to do dash swaps with lower mile clusters they found at a junk yard (the 1994.5-1997 are extremely hard/impossible to dash swap), so if something seems off or that it's too rough for its milage, a car fax can help show mileage discrepancies if you're serious about buying it. We've owned two and they were great rigs, just make sure all the rubber parts, hoses, lines and o-rings are in good shape, otherwise you'll run into all the problems I had with the 1996 (above).

6.0 powerstroke (2003-2007) They are the notorious motor everyone dreads. They are actually not as bad as everyone says, if you delete it and stud it. If you don't build them and just remove the egr cooler, straight pipe it (as in turbo straight to the down pipe), stud the heads and run a coolant filtration system, they can last as long as the 7.3's. This is where computer programming comes into play, so you'll need a good programmer to sim the emission sensors that are deleted and can suffer from electronic issues if they are abused or if they see salt water.

6.4 powerstroke (2008-2010) These are complete nightmares when they cross the 200,000 mile mark. If not deleted by 100,000 miles, they are notorious for cracking pistons after 150,000. The motor makes more power then the transmission can handle, so if you tow a lot, you can easily roast a stock transmission. The cab has to be lifted off the chassis to properly do injectors, up pipes, HPOP's, egr cooler repairs and head gaskets, so if it needs any kind of serious work, it's going to get expensive quickly. If it's completely deleted with a built transmission, I would consider one but there are way better options out there. A family member has one as their work truck and in 120,000 miles it has eaten the original top-end, then lost the whole motor and now is on motor two and lost two transmissions, so I wouldn't say it's a "great" rig.

6.7 powerstroke (2011-now) there are a bunch of generations with this motor but since they are expensive rigs and not really in your budget, i won't get too deep. They actually fixed the previous motors problems but created new ones that simply are a result of the emissions systems they used. If you just delete it, they run clean and have little problems. They fixed the body clearance issues and you can do most repairs with the cabs on, so they are fairly manageable to maintain and we should see these rigs become the 7.3's of the next decade as the older rigs die off. They do have the same transmission issue of the 6.4's where they make more power then the transmission can handle, so if you're going to tow with it, just get a built transmission when the original one lets go.



As for looking for a rig, look in eastern oregon. There are a lot of older rigs with low miles down there and they don't want the extreme amounts of money for them, plus the rigs are rust free. I bought my expedition at Sisters Car Connection in sisters oregon and they focus on selling rigs for older people that are not computer savey, not comfortable with craigslist, don't text and want a clean way to sell their car. They can give you the title and you can register it when you get home, so you don't get double taxed. You can also ask the owner (there is literally only two people there) to e-mail you when a rig you're looking for comes in and get first looks and not have to play the race to the craigslist rust buckets. We all hate car dealers but they are a good resource if your looking for a clean 1 or 2 owner truck and the dealerships owner was actually easy to work with (but still, go through everything and get it checked out. They treated me well but they're still a car dealership, so your experience may vary).

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Sat Sep 21, 2019 2:46 am
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Excellent information and advice everyone. You've given me a lot to consider and think about.

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Sat Sep 21, 2019 9:29 am
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This thread is also pertinent to my interests in a diesel. Can anyone recommend a local shop that can do a decent job of diesel inspections before I buy?


Sun Sep 22, 2019 3:11 pm
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In Auburn Id go see John at Auburn Car Repair and OffRooad. Great folks, great reputation.

http://auburncarrepair.com/


Sun Sep 22, 2019 3:54 pm
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