Here's the deal.. My dads wheelchair lift in his van is not working in one of the operations. I've chased wire, checked relays, micro-switches, etc with no luck. I just want to bypass the rest of the stuff and put in new switches.
The motor that runs the operation works with a 12v supply and needs to be able to turn in both directions. He'll also need to be able to operate this motor while on the lift as well as outside the van, which means two different switches. I believe a momentary dpdt switch is what I need, I'm just not sure how to wire up two of them.
Anyone good with this kind of thing that could give me some insight on what I need and how to do it?
Thanks guys!

If you know how to wire one, you know how to wire two.

Just duplicate exactly, the same wires, to switch number two.

Neither switch will affect the other switch, as long as both switches aren't used at once.

google 2 pole reversing switch..

Whoooooo, was able to load the image. Hope this helps.

Just reread the original post. Yes, 2 can be pararelled. But please expect smoke if both are activated at the same time.

TW to the rescue.............



this might help
https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=ho ... ORM%3DVDRE

Sorry for the crappy drawing. Is this what you're talking about?

Make sure that what you use is a reversing relay rated for the motor amperage , unless you have a helluva heavy duty switch. A relay would be wired similar to the switch diagram, but have two additional 12vdc inputs, one for forward, one reverse, which could come from a low amp source via a center position off, momentary SPDT switch.

Edit oops, didn't realize you were trying to eliminate the relay. Make sure your switches are rated for the motor current.

A DPDT switch is not needed. I would not use a switch myself.
You can trigger a pair of relays from a momentary (on-off-on) switch anywhere you want one. You can make the momentary switch negative or positive trigger, which ever suits your setup better.




Using two Bosch relays or that style. They can be bought new or scrounged out of many kinds of cars at the wrecking yard. Many mopars use them or knock off brand relays with the SAME terminal config/labeling.


85 and 85 are you trigger leads. When both those terminals have + and - he relay will open. It doesnt matter which (85 or 86) gets which as long as one has a ground and one has a positive. 30 goes to your motor.

The chart lists as "alarm lock". You will use these two as your triggers from your monetary switch.

I've used this relay:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CG ... UTF8&psc=1

for several winch and other heavy duty DC motor applications.

It can also be used with this or a similar remote, in combination with swiches if you want.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MQ ... UTF8&psc=1

Using a handheld remote might be handy and eliminates some switches and wiring.

If you want to go on a little road trip I'd help you out, but I'm up in the Renton area.

The "motor" I'm talking about is actually a linear actuator. Looks like this..



The specs on these seem to be in the 12v, 2.5-3A current draw. Trying to keep this simple. Would a couple of switches like this work like in my drawing above?



Silver Contact Momentary Car Heavy Duty 20A 125V DPDT 6 Terminal ON/OFF/ON Rocker Toggle Switch

https://www.amazon.com/SupportTM-Moment ... 964&sr=8-2

I take my WC Vans to Kersey Lift in Sumner, they're quick and cheap.
Micro switches are a bitch on them, and timing them even worse. Spend an hour getting the deploy and stow to work, then it doesn't raise to the threshold, get it to ride to the threshold and stow or deploy doesn't work. Hate them.
If you're just going to make it a quick deal, I'd be using momentary switches.

Those are momentary switches I linked.
My parents have always used Kersey's in sumner. But they're an hour and a half away from them and have failed to fix problems the last few times there, saying parts were unavailable and trying to get them to upgrade. I fixed those problems when they couldn't.

I have 4 vans, all lifts are different models and manufacturers, nothing interchangeable and wiring/switches all different.
If we can do a simple adjustment or repair we do it, anything more than that and we sub it out to save shop space, and we both hate monkeying with the fuckers.

Those switches would perform the function you require and appear to be more than adequate to handle the current of the actuator. One possible glitch I can forsee is that unless the actuator has built in limit switches, you are relying on manually stopping the travel at the right spot. Any overtravel in either direction will mechanically bind things, and eventually lead to problems. Might not be an issue. Give it a try.

Thanks for all the replies.
The actuator self limits, hits a clutch or something. The manual says to let go of the switch when fully extended and you hear a "ratcheting" sound. Sounds like the clutch on a cordless drill now that I think about it.

That's great! You should be good to go. Do yourself a favor and use crimp on or solder on terminals on the wires going to the switch terminals, rather than just hooking the wire around the screw. I normally crimp the lugs, then melt solder into them. Less chance of wire breaking or screws coming loose on the switches. Solder and tape all your connections for good electrical integrity and corrosion resistance. Good luck!