And these are some of the same people coming up in the caravans to the border. I have to say as a human, if I was in their shoes dealing with the shit that was going on there, I can't blame them for leaving.

Pullers look like this. They screw onto the hub and then you run down the center bolt until it hits the spindle. Then you crank down on the bolt until the wheel pops off. At least in theory

Dude!

Make your own!

The only thing the wife said no to was a strip club...

I have a 76 Chevy SWB, High horsepower, tubbed monster and a 1955 Ford F1 truck that my wife loves.

I have a 69 Camaro that I am picking up in about three weeks. Just got to make room...LOL

Don’t have the equipment to cut such fine threads in such a big ID. Need a lathe I guess

Or a piece of pipe. That looks like a fine pipe thread.

Fine pipe Thread??????

Your point?

Pipe thread is tapered, needs to be straight thread

I can make something that will work

Pretty sure 'pipe thread' is only one TPI and yes its tapered.

Unless you're talking a diffrent kinda pipe....

Then I'd think that was threaded tubing.

....that uses normal Nut/Bolt thread pitches and TPI's.








Sorry....Mechanic/halfass Machinist's have a thing for correct terminology.

No animus intended...

Sorry, bunch of these comments and questions are Captain Obvious-worthy. Just trying to cover the bases.
Couple of questions regarding this $100 tool that should cost about $5.
What is the purpose of the clamp mechanism if the puller is threaded to attach to the hub?
Do you have a thread gage to get that correct TPI?

Handy thread gage (or gauge):

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The clamp mechanism seems to me to be for slipping on, then turning the locking bolt to lock it on with pressure, not threading. Obviously this shouldn't be done on a threaded part if you care about the threads.



There looks to be two separate types of puller in that picture... The one on the left might be a slip-on with clamp, and the one on the right is a thread on. Maybe the clamp on puller has a soft interior to grip the threads? Or the threads are taped to prevent being malformed?

Lastly, what is the diameter of the wheel? I have made 2, 3 and 4 jaw pullers from a long piece of all-thread and scrap metal. It beats the heck out of paying $100 for such a 1 use tool!

Two knees behind the spokes of the steering wheel with upward pressure along with two arms.

Use a good hammer and an aluminum drift to smack the column where the retaining nut lived.

Two man job.....one pushing/pulling up on the wheel with arms and legs....the other with the aluminum drift/hammer.

It'd be best to have a thinner replacement retaining nut on the threaded part of the column, not tight (of course), just protecting the threads.

Run the stock original nut to Tacoma Screw and get the replacement, either turn it down on a lathe or cut the width with a bench grinder.



One whack should be all it takes...




PMB a puller on the OD of the center of the wheel would likely break the delicate Plastic/Bakelite

I agree... I only recall pulling an old steering wheel one time. If memory still serves, it was on a 1948 CJ2A. (Might have been something else... sorry. Memory is dusty.)
I used about a 12" piece of 5/8" all thread, ground one tip tapered down to a flat point, flat point about 1/4" across. I used two standard nuts locked together at the top as my wrench spot. Jam nuts.

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Jam nuts:

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Using an allthread nut:

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I welded 3 Unistrut washers to the nut:

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After smoothing out the inner edges of the 3 Unistrut washers, I tied nylon strapping through the holes and around the spokes in the wheel.

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It is not ideal, as it is a little difficult to keep the tension even on the three... I did it with my son pushing up on the wheel from below as I tried to keep somewhat even tension with one hand and turn the jam-nutted all thread with the taper tip onto the arbor.
It worked, for what it's worth.
I remember the tool more than I do the vehicle because I have made several like it for other jobs that weren't worth waiting until the stores were open or making the trek into town to buy a puller. I've also used this design with pieces of thin steel cable instead of nylon strapping, and have welded up puller jaws instead of the flexible strapping/cable for the odd job.

If you want to do it up nice and adjustable so the three (or four) legs apply even tension, use eyebolts at the allthread nut. Bit more work, but even pull without struggling all over the place.

I pulled the steering wheels in my CUCVs (1983 chevy C/K series, basically) by hand... lots of back and forth wobbling.

By the 4th time I was smart and used a puller. Hahahah

Are we sure he was talking about the steering wheel? Seems to me those older cars had a single but holding the wheel on the axle spindle. I assumed that’s what he was talking about.