WaGuns.org

Posted: **Sun Jul 30, 2017 4:30 pm**

cmica wrote:
PMB wrote:
jukk0u wrote:so...what went into making that chair?

That chair was made probably close to 20 years ago. I made two of them out of 3/4" ACX plywood. Both are still tight.

nice i've got to see this. that caught my eye fast rather than the light
your side job should be book writter, you come up with some witty titles and this could be the start of it DIY book.

You either sat in one of those chairs or I did when I was welding that pooper-scooper. I think.
I'll snap a coupla more pics for you bud.

Posted: **Sun Jul 30, 2017 4:39 pm**

Cost savings of using an LED light for years to come,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, $5

Cost of heavy welding amperage draw while welding LED light mount,,,,,,,,,,,, $7.50

Actual savings,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, -$2.50 in the hole!

The satisfaction of being a cheap bastard,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,$Priceless!

Posted: **Sun Jul 30, 2017 4:39 pm**

Shoulda made the light pole free standing, so you could practice your dance routine for them YouTube videos on slow shop nights.

Like, when you piss off the wife, and get banished from the house.

Posted: **Sun Jul 30, 2017 4:45 pm**

Old Growth wrote:Cost savings of using an LED light for years to come,,,,,, $5
Cost of heavy welding amperage draw while welding LED light mount,,,,,,,, $7.50
Actual savings,,,,,,,,, -$2.50 in the hole!
The satisfaction of being a cheap bastard,,,,,,,, $Priceless!

hah
This had nothing to do with saving money though. LED are instant on while fluorescent struggle occasionally in the winter. No more flicker, etc. I don't know if the manufacturers have worked out the LED bugs yet... We'll find out in the next few years.
Have you ever worked on a lathe or mill with a flickering light above you?
That is a brain frying experience. I dislike changing those long tubes...
But I will agree that I am a bastard. :cheers2:

RENCORP wrote:Shoulda made the light pole free standing, so you could practice your dance routine for them YouTube videos on slow shop nights.
Like, when you piss off the wife, and get banished from the house.

Never happens here Rene. I am a Stepford Husband,

Posted: **Sun Jul 30, 2017 4:51 pm**

Posted: **Sun Jul 30, 2017 6:56 pm**

MadPick wrote:I'm gonna create a D-I-Why? forum.

Title of the first thread will be: Becuz-I-Kin!

Posted: **Tue Aug 01, 2017 8:19 am**

I received an email question about why the lag bolt broke if I pre-drilled the holes for all 4.

I drill a hole for a lag bolt that is always smaller than the shank.
Lag bolts are famous for their lack of consistent sizing and for the inherent weakness in their thread design. They're not meant to be structural in nature despite their constant use for things like that. They are wood screws, not a grade 2 bolt.
Wood screws rely on 2 things for their holding strength- the geometry of the thread and the gription of the wood fibers squeezing down on it.
The geometry of the thread factor is just like a machine nut and bolt... The nut doesn't "grip" the shank of the bolt, but rather blocks the path for the bolt to slip out.
The gription of the wood is what holds a nail in place. In soft woods we don't pre-drill a hole for a nail (not in construction usually, anyway.) You do have to predrill for a nail when the wood is hard, but the hole is -always- smaller than the shank of the nail if it is expected to hold at all.
So lag screws are a chimera of sorts. It's important to me that the hole be at the Goldilocks spot, and I probably erred towards the little bear in this case.
Too small.

Too big.

I want to see the shank of the lag screw behind the shank of the drill bit, but not too much of it.

Just about right.

Posted: **Tue Aug 01, 2017 8:23 am**

PMB wrote:I received an email question about why the lag bolt broke if I pre-drilled the holes for all 4.

I drill a hole for a lag bolt that is always smaller than the shank.
Lag bolts are famous for their lack of consistent sizing and for the inherent weakness in their thread design. They're not meant to be structural in nature despite their constant use for things like that. They are wood screws, not a grade 2 bolt.
Wood screws rely on 2 things for their holding strength- the geometry of the thread and the gription of the wood fibers squeezing down on it.
The geometry of the thread factor is just like a machine nut and bolt... The nut doesn't "grip" the shank of the bolt, but rather blocks the path for the bolt to slip out.
The gription of the wood is what holds a nail in place. In soft woods we don't pre-drill a hole for a nail (not in construction usually, anyway.) You do have to predrill for a nail when the wood is hard, but the hole is -always- smaller than the shank of the nail if it is expected to hold at all.
So lag screws are a chimera of sorts. It's important to me that the hole be at the Goldilocks spot, and I probably erred towards the little bear in this case.
Too small.

Too big.

I want to see the shank of the lag screw behind the shank of the drill bit, but not too much of it.

Just about right.

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Tightwad makes light do double duty

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