WaGuns.org

Its been listed for 14 days. Get it checked out, offer $20k, go from there and get yourself a sweet rig. Dont forget that licensing with that light rail tax will be even more than usual as well.


There is a few recalls on these models, so Id check to see if it falls in these parameters and its been fixed if so.

https://www.cars.com/recalls/chevrolet- ... 2500-2011/

cmica wrote:NOPE!!

Why not?

TechnoWeenie wrote:With just the basic info....and without knowing more....

I'd say 8-10K tops... Other than that, I'd walk...

That's just flat out asinine.

L_O_G wrote:Its been listed for 14 days. Get it checked out, offer $20k, go from there and get yourself a sweet rig. Dont forget that licensing with that light rail tax will be even more than usual as well.


There is a few recalls on these models, so Id check to see if it falls in these parameters and its been fixed if so.

https://www.cars.com/recalls/chevrolet- ... 2500-2011/

I'm definitely going to run a carfax. They list recalls and whether or not the recall work has been performed. Thanks for the link!

TechnoWeenie wrote:With just the basic info....and without knowing more....

I'd say 8-10K tops... Other than that, I'd walk...

Nope

sinus211 wrote:

golddigger14s wrote:Ask to take it to your mechanic for an inspection.

I absolutely will. Anything over $20k is worth spending a couple hundred on a mechanic's inspection. One of those situations where a couple hundred can save you a couple thousand or more.

My mechanic doesn't charge for "about to buy inspections". No matter how many cars you bring in to get checked.

L_O_G wrote:

TechnoWeenie wrote:With just the basic info....and without knowing more....

I'd say 8-10K tops... Other than that, I'd walk...

Exactly.

I buy vehicles ASSUMING that I will experience a major mechanical failure, Ie engine/trans.... and have the $$$ in reserve to fix said issues should they pop up.

I then ask myself, if I pay x$ +y$ for an engine, is it worth it? IOTW, buy well below actual value...

Let's say the guy is asking 20 grand, and a new engine would cost 4 grand..... would the truck be worth 24k with a new engine?

So, I buy well below that, say $15k, so I have a buffer for mechanical issues, and can sell later for a profit. On every car but 1 I've bought low, drove it for a year or two, and sold it for more than I bought it for....

Yeah, you gotta wait for the right person/deal, but it's doable...and can't always get what you want, but....

No way Sir! Do not buy someone else's problems. You think you are saving money, you're not. You think highway miles, I call BS. That truck could have been running 18 hrs a day being passed around from driver to driver. Someone commented that truck could have been pulling a heavy trailer the whole time. The money you think you save, will be spent down the road in repairs. Remember no warranty.
I would look for another truck. Good luck.

TechnoWeenie wrote:

L_O_G wrote:

TechnoWeenie wrote:With just the basic info....and without knowing more....

I'd say 8-10K tops... Other than that, I'd walk...

Exactly.

I buy vehicles ASSUMING that I will experience a major mechanical failure, Ie engine/trans.... and have the $$$ in reserve to fix said issues should they pop up.

I then ask myself, if I pay x$ +y$ for an engine, is it worth it? IOTW, buy well below actual value...

Let's say the guy is asking 20 grand, and a new engine would cost 4 grand..... would the truck be worth 24k with a new engine?

So, I buy well below that, say $15k, so I have a buffer for mechanical issues, and can sell later for a profit. On every car but 1 I've bought low, drove it for a year or two, and sold it for more than I bought it for....

Yeah, you gotta wait for the right person/deal, but it's doable...and can't always get what you want, but....

That might work with a Yugo, but not with a vehicle in demand. And if you can't get what you want, why bother at all?

SFCRMSA wrote:No way Sir! Do not buy someone else's problems. You think you are saving money, you're not. You think highway miles, I call BS. That truck could have been running 18 hrs a day being passed around from driver to driver. Someone commented that truck could have been pulling a heavy trailer the whole time. The money you think you save, will be spent down the road in repairs. Remember no warranty.
I would look for another truck. Good luck.

Unless you buy under 50k miles you're generally inheriting someone else's problems. I don't mind basic repairs (brakes, suspension, basic electrical) but I'd like to avoid engine/transmission rebuilding on a truck I just bought. The 6.6 duramax/allison 6spd combo seems to be pretty stout and usually goes near 300k miles before needing major attention. Especially if they're highway miles. Still on the fence. There are other gasser options I'm considering:

https://seattle.craigslist.org/skc/ctd/6233403967.html
https://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/ctd/ ... 68103.html

sinus211 wrote:

SFCRMSA wrote:No way Sir! Do not buy someone else's problems. You think you are saving money, you're not. You think highway miles, I call BS. That truck could have been running 18 hrs a day being passed around from driver to driver. Someone commented that truck could have been pulling a heavy trailer the whole time. The money you think you save, will be spent down the road in repairs. Remember no warranty.
I would look for another truck. Good luck.

Unless you buy under 50k miles you're generally inheriting someone else's problems. I don't mind basic repairs (brakes, suspension, basic electrical) but I'd like to avoid engine/transmission rebuilding on a truck I just bought. The 6.6 duramax/allison 6spd combo seems to be pretty stout and usually goes near 300k miles before needing major attention. Especially if they're highway miles. Still on the fence. There are other gasser options I'm considering:

https://seattle.craigslist.org/skc/ctd/6233403967.html
https://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/ctd/ ... 68103.html

Googling the VIN should provide some history, Ie auction information, that the car info sites won't have...

Get it inspected.
Run a carfax.
I'd ask what he used it for/why he's selling.
By the looks of the interior, it doesn't look like a truck that's been "driven 18 hrs a day person after person". I've seen trucks like that before. They look like shit after 2 months.

If everything looks good then I'd say go for it.

My old man has a tow company with quite a few big ol' diesel trucks. Chevys, Rams and Ford.

Do maintenance on them and they'll run 500k+

I would if price was a tad lower.

Out of the three trucks you have listed, Id go with the Chevy, then the Toyota, then the Nissan

TechnoWeenie wrote:

sinus211 wrote:

SFCRMSA wrote:No way Sir! Do not buy someone else's problems. You think you are saving money, you're not. You think highway miles, I call BS. That truck could have been running 18 hrs a day being passed around from driver to driver. Someone commented that truck could have been pulling a heavy trailer the whole time. The money you think you save, will be spent down the road in repairs. Remember no warranty.
I would look for another truck. Good luck.

Unless you buy under 50k miles you're generally inheriting someone else's problems. I don't mind basic repairs (brakes, suspension, basic electrical) but I'd like to avoid engine/transmission rebuilding on a truck I just bought. The 6.6 duramax/allison 6spd combo seems to be pretty stout and usually goes near 300k miles before needing major attention. Especially if they're highway miles. Still on the fence. There are other gasser options I'm considering:

https://seattle.craigslist.org/skc/ctd/6233403967.html
https://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/ctd/ ... 68103.html

Googling the VIN should provide some history, Ie auction information, that the car info sites won't have...

This is a good idea in addition to the CarFax.


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RusoArmo wrote:Get it inspected.
Run a carfax.
I'd ask what he used it for/why he's selling.
By the looks of the interior, it doesn't look like a truck that's been "driven 18 hrs a day person after person". I've seen trucks like that before. They look like shit after 2 months.

If everything looks good then I'd say go for it.

My old man has a tow company with quite a few big ol' diesel trucks. Chevys, Rams and Ford.

Do maintenance on them and they'll run 500k+

I know what you mean. The interior looks good from the 1 pic but who knows how it might look in person. Carfax/inspection will be mandatory items. I'm guessing he towed with it considering 30k+ miles per year. Probably going to start an email conversation with him today and go check it out this weekend if there aren't any red flags.

Pablo wrote:I would if price was a tad lower.

Negotiation will happen. After checking the KBB again the private resale on the truck is $20,507. It'll have to be under that number to be a consideration.

L_O_G wrote:Out of the three trucks you have listed, Id go with the Chevy, then the Toyota, then the Nissan

I've driven a Chevy non diesel and loved the interior, but the 5.3 was lacking power and the 1500 suspension/steering was too soft for me. Hopefully those issues will disappear with a 2500HD diesel. Haven't driven any Tundras yet but they are very nice looking trucks. From what I read though, they have just as many issues as any other truck and the price/mileage is a bit of a turn off. Surprisingly the Titans are nice trucks. I was very impressed with the power, space, and overall feel of the truck. Titan is also selling cheaper than the other options at much lower mileage.

Decisions, decisions.