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 Can this be welded? The rest of the story with pictures! 
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Maybe instead of welding, a riveted long steel handle with a wood handle the whole length across the top and extending where the old handle was? Essentially, two flat 15" (or whatever) pieces of steel sandwiching the blade, create a new long handle thereby eliminating the weak point where it broke.

I cannot say if welding will work, but my suspicions are that it won't and it won't be cost effective anyway. Perhaps there's a warranty if you can find the company? A good company will carry a lifetime warranty on their blades.

Or it's not a total loss. Fashion a handle across the top of the blade and make a pizza cutter or other tool.

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Sun Oct 22, 2017 6:13 pm
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leadcounsel wrote:
Maybe instead of welding, a riveted long steel handle with a wood handle the whole length across the top and extending where the old handle was? Essentially, two flat 15" (or whatever) pieces of steel sandwiching the blade, create a new long handle thereby eliminating the weak point where it broke.

I cannot say if welding will work, but my suspicions are that it won't and it won't be cost effective anyway. Perhaps there's a warranty if you can find the company? A good company will carry a lifetime warranty on their blades.

Or it's not a total loss. Fashion a handle across the top of the blade and make a pizza cutter or other tool.

Image


Something like this is what I'm leaning toward. Especially since Rita asked if something like that could be done.

I'm going to bring it into work tomorrow and see if one of our machinists can grind it square and drill 2-3 holes along the top for me to mount some scales on.

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Sun Oct 22, 2017 8:39 pm
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delliottg wrote:
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I wish we could get a better look at the broken ends.

My gut says there has been a crack there for a while already.

Also, it could be silver soldered, or brazed. Then it might break again where it broke before, or it might not. It would also LOOK like it had been soldered or brazed.

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Sun Oct 22, 2017 8:48 pm
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Here is what can be done. Keep the blade portion cool, like submerged in water. Anneal the spine, at least near the break, but better to do the whole thing. Tig weld together. Cool slowly. Refinish to remove heat discoloration. Don't beat with mallet. Any guesses what the material is?

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Sun Oct 22, 2017 9:18 pm
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ironworker78 wrote:
Here is what can be done. Keep the blade portion cool, like submerged in water. Anneal the spine, at least near the break, but better to do the whole thing. Tig weld together. Cool slowly. Refinish to remove heat discoloration. Don't beat with mallet. Any guesses what the material is?


I would listen to this guy delliottg.
He can fix it. :thumbsup2:

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Sun Oct 22, 2017 9:43 pm
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ironworker78 wrote:
Here is what can be done. Keep the blade portion cool, like submerged in water. Anneal the spine, at least near the break, but better to do the whole thing. Tig weld together. Cool slowly. Refinish to remove heat discoloration. Don't beat with mallet. Any guesses what the material is?


Part of the kanji on the blade apparently says "high carbon stainless". Does that help?

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Mon Oct 23, 2017 4:48 am
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High carbon stainless sounds like 400 series stainless


Mon Oct 23, 2017 7:40 am
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I've asked a friend who can read Japanese to translate it for me.

Regarding the potential of it being an old crack, I don't think so, there's no indication along the entire break that there was any flaw there.

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Mon Oct 23, 2017 7:47 am
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delliottg wrote:
I've asked a friend who can read Japanese to translate it for me.

Regarding the potential of it being an old crack, I don't think so, there's no indication along the entire break that there was any flaw there.

Ok.

You understood my intention, so I think it's safe to assume your assessment is a good one. :bigsmile: :thumbsup2:

I was going to suggest that it was a high carbon stainless and maybe the handle and spine were left too brittle for hammering on. You guys beat me to it. (No pun intended.)

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Mon Oct 23, 2017 9:13 am
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My friend translated it to read: "Kitchen use cleaver -High Carbon Stainless Steel", so no manufacturer's name, very utilitarian.

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Mon Oct 23, 2017 9:56 am
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In my opinion, a cleaver is an impact tool. As such, the material should be able to take repeated impacts. I believe this cleaver was made too brittle for that task, and should have bent before breaking. I would say now is a good time for an upgrade.

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Mon Oct 23, 2017 4:35 pm
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Two strips of wood across bolted the top and out the broken side for the grip.
Done

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Mon Oct 23, 2017 4:48 pm
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Dang. Ow.

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Sat Jan 27, 2018 9:54 am
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Most Japanese cleavers are for vegetables only. I realize you were trying to cut through a veg, but apparently got a tough one.

Chinese cleavers tend to have ones made for veggies, and ones for meat/bones.

To get back on her good side, take her to the place below....make an afternoon of it, grab lunch or dinner, get educated.

The place isn't cheap, but you're paying for the education on purchase, and caring for the knives. You can always buy something inexpensive, and go online for the more spendy stuff:

http://www.epicedge.com/


Sat Jan 27, 2018 12:10 pm
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dave what did you happen to do with this??

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Sat Jan 27, 2018 12:20 pm
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