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MoreCowbell432
Location: Seattle Eastside Joined: Wed Oct 6, 2021 Posts: 24
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Was working on an AR upper and it fell off my work bench and hit my garage floor. Dinged the edge of the block the pivot pin passes through and crushed it enough that I can get the pivot pin 2/3 of the way through but then hit heavy resistance. I was able to drive it through with a spare pin and punch but I don’t want to be hammering my upper off and on lowers whenever I need to clean it. I tried driving the pin through a couple times in each direction but it is still malformed enough that isn’t a great solution. Anybody dealt with that before? My brother said a reamer would probably be needed to fix it.
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Tue Dec 07, 2021 3:41 pm |
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survivor
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Location: Kent Joined: Wed Mar 13, 2013 Posts: 1660
Real Name: Andy
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It’s a 1/4” hole so you can try a 1/4” drill bit. A reamer would work also.
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Tue Dec 07, 2021 3:46 pm |
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lunacite
Site Supporter
Location: Snohomish County Joined: Tue Feb 21, 2012 Posts: 1146
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You could try and drill it out a little, it shouldn't take much. There's also replacement takedown pins you could get that make pulling the rear pin out easier with a ring or paracord pull on it.
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Tue Dec 07, 2021 3:52 pm |
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usrifle
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Location: RENTON Joined: Fri Mar 25, 2011 Posts: 20771
Real Name: John
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survivor wrote: It’s a 1/4” hole so you can try a 1/4” drill bit. A reamer would work also. Use a reamer, not a drill bit.
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Tue Dec 07, 2021 4:31 pm |
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Rottenryan
Site Supporter
Location: Tumwater Joined: Thu Mar 22, 2018 Posts: 647
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usrifle wrote: survivor wrote: It’s a 1/4” hole so you can try a 1/4” drill bit. A reamer would work also. Use a reamer, not a drill bit. And I little drop of A9 for lube.
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Tue Dec 07, 2021 4:48 pm |
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Ace
Location: KC area Missouri Joined: Sat Sep 10, 2016 Posts: 1573
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If you can take a picture of the affected area. Even a reamer might be too much. Tolerance for the hole should be .250-.251 you go too much then if becomes a wobbling, useless monster. you might get away with a littler emery cloth or fine grit sandpaper in just the affected area.
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Tue Dec 07, 2021 5:19 pm |
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MoreCowbell432
Location: Seattle Eastside Joined: Wed Oct 6, 2021 Posts: 24
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Ace wrote: If you can take a picture of the affected area. Even a reamer might be too much. Tolerance for the hole should be .250-.251 you go too much then if becomes a wobbling, useless monster. you might get away with a littler emery cloth or fine grit sandpaper in just the affected area. Thanks for all the feedback everyone. Attached are the photos. It is a Gibbz side charging upper so not thrilled I let it pop off my workbench. I think it is beyond a little sanding. I tried a file just a small amount on the dinged end with little improvement. To get the pin through I have to drive it with a hammer and pin punch. I did that about two times from each side to see if that pushed it back into shape using a spare pin I had. I mean helped a small amount but not much. Seems a bit crushed on the damaged end. Based on the pics would a 1/4" reamer be the way to go in this situation? Do I need a drill press or would I be able to do it with a hand drill? I did contact Gibbz so maybe they will let me send it in to them to fix.
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Tue Dec 07, 2021 11:19 pm |
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oldkim
Site Supporter
Location: Maple Valley, WA Joined: Thu Mar 17, 2011 Posts: 9271
Real Name: Young
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Well, personally…
Put the pin in and let it be. It doesn’t impair function. You can still take down (shotgun) the AR and clean and do all the things. It’s structurally sound. It’s definitely cosmetic.
I wouldn’t spend money on repair but that’s me. You dropped it. Life goes on. But if you have the money and it bothers you that it got a ding. Then spend away.
Me - buy more mags and ammo with money not spent on repairing cosmetic issue???
But my perspective is that firearms are tools. Sometime pretty but used… and abused by use. FYI - I have broken more guns than most own. (Fortunately for me most have been under warranty so got them fixed pretty cheap/free).
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Wed Dec 08, 2021 7:41 am |
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TINCANBANDIT
Site Supporter
Location: Mohave Valley Arizona Joined: Fri May 20, 2011 Posts: 13371
Real Name: Casey
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This appears to be the front pin? If so, put it together and leave the front pin in place, just remove the rear pin for cleaning.
Any attempt to open up the hole will probably be futile, the hole is now oblong and fits tight on one side, removing that material will make it loose on all sides
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Wed Dec 08, 2021 8:06 am |
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Caveman Jim
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Location: In my Cave near the Cloquallum Joined: Thu Sep 26, 2013 Posts: 7807
Real Name: Jim Sr.
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TINCANBANDIT wrote: This appears to be the front pin? If so, put it together and leave the front pin in place, just remove the rear pin for cleaning.
Any attempt to open up the hole will probably be futile, the hole is now oblong and fits tight on one side, removing that material will make it loose on all sides On another note if that is your designated gun cleaning/building/maintenance area put down a rubber mat. It will help your back and save these type of stories for the other guys. Good Luck
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Wed Dec 08, 2021 8:16 am |
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ViniVidivici
Location: Puyallup Joined: Tue Sep 18, 2018 Posts: 3076
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If that were my gun, I'd rather MOVE material, than REmove with drill bit or reamer.
I'd either use a tapered punch to widen the hole back out, or (more likely) just pound the pivot pin back in and leave it.
While I sometimes remove upper from lower for a thorough cleaning, not being able to do so would'nt be a deal breaker, for me.
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Wed Dec 08, 2021 8:17 am |
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catbird
Site Supporter
Location: C@L Joined: Thu Jan 16, 2014 Posts: 338
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As someone who's paid to drill holes in aluminum, I would only drill or ream as a last resort. You'll probably end up with a sloppy oversized mess. I like Vin's idea of using a taper punch to recircularize the hole. Be gentle though, the alloys used in AR receivers are not very ductile and will crack if bent too much. Instead of reaming, I would use a fine tooth round file to return the hole to round. File a little and test fit often until you get a satisfactory fit. You'll need to file smooth the dents and gouges on the outside where it hit the floor to remove stress rises which could form cracks.
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Wed Dec 08, 2021 9:22 am |
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Ace
Location: KC area Missouri Joined: Sat Sep 10, 2016 Posts: 1573
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Doesn't look too deformed. You might get away with cleaning it up a little with fine sand paper or a stone. Just remove the jagged edges and nothing else then touch it up with a sharpie.
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Wed Dec 08, 2021 4:23 pm |
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Old Growth
Site Supporter
Location: Nisqually Valley Joined: Wed Oct 5, 2016 Posts: 4834
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Smallest chainsaw file you can buy.
DONT drill it. DONT ream it.
The drill and the ream will take material off the smashed side AND the side 180 degrees from it as the drill/ream tries to center itself into the "newly tightened" opening. The resulting hole will be sloppy and offcenter/misaligned. Take the chainsaw file and barely draw it across the smashed side/edge until the pin just passes thru snugly.
Check it between EVERY file stroke.
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Wed Dec 08, 2021 8:35 pm |
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foothills
Site Supporter
Location: Hoodsport/Shelton Joined: Sat Mar 19, 2011 Posts: 3372
Real Name: Don
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Old Growth wrote: Smallest chainsaw file you can buy.
DONT drill it. DONT ream it.
The drill and the ream will take material off the smashed side AND the side 180 degrees from it as the drill/ream tries to center itself into the "newly tightened" opening. The resulting hole will be sloppy and offcenter/misaligned. Take the chainsaw file and barely draw it across the smashed side/edge until the pin just passes thru snugly.
Check it between EVERY file stroke. This is exactly my thoughts...shouldn't take more than a few light strokes to clean it up. Gotta love how loggers think...
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Thu Dec 09, 2021 7:34 am |
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