Ok guys, I need some help figuring this out:

I have a savage model 10 in .308 with a 20" threaded barrel. It is wearing a Huskemaw blue diamond 4-16 with a custom turret cut for my handloads (168grn Barnes TSX @ 2650FPS). I recently got a AAC 762SDN6. Before I got the can I was able to shoot 2.5-3" groups at 500 yards with this rifle and just a thread protector. I mounted an AAC blackout .30 cal muzzle brake to use with my can. I finally shot the sumbitch today and it shoots extremely high compared to before I mounted the brake.

I was shooting at 100 yards with zero wind off of a bag. My scope was set at 100 yards and I was at least two feet high. I backed the turret all the way until I ran out of adjustment and I was still 6" high. The turret is cut for a 100 yard zero and the scope is in talley medium rings. This is crazy and I am super bummed. With the can mounted it shoots the same height off and about 1.5" left. I am not sure what to do.

Any suggestions?

POI shift is pretty common with a suppressor installed. Get your DOPE on shooting with the can and tape it to the side of the stock. When you screw on the can, twist your turrets.

http://blog.silencershop.com/poi-shift/


*EDIT- Wtf was I thinking? Just give me your suppressor. Problem solved

That's what I was trying to do. The issue is that the shift in POI was so significant I ran out of adjustment in my scope... I.E: It was shooting extremely high. With the turret backed all the way to the stop it is still shooting 6" high at 100 yards.

Be honest, you just want to twist his turrets

Are you using an angled scope rail. Ie. 10 moa or 20 moa?

You got me

So if I understand your post correctly:

- The gun shoots fine with a bare barrel.
- When you add a muzzle brake, it shoots REALLY high.
- When you add a suppressor on top of the muzzle brake, the POI shifts slightly.

Did I get that right?

The slight POI shift when you add the suppressor doesn't surprise me. That sounds normal.

The huge POI shift when you add the muzzle brake DOES sound like a problem, though. Did you look at the brake? Is the bullet hitting it, maybe glancing off the bottom of the hole?

So you're saying that the POI shift happened when you added the brake but not the can. When you added the can it change a little bit more (more to the left, not so much elevation) but not as significant as simply adding the brake.

Either the brake or the threading is bad. Was the threading done at the factory?

A simple test would be to put the brake on 180 from where it is now and shoot it again with the can. If you are way low then it's got to be the brake, if it's similar to what you had before it's the threading.

You could mess with mounts and the scope but that's putting a bandaid on it.

Crap, reading is fundamental. Good catch guys, I thought it was an issue with the can.

What stock do you have on your savage?

I've seen some great shooting savage rifles with really flimsy tupperware stocks, put a bipod on and apply pressure and the barrel is already making contact with the stock.

A suppressor is going to shift your point of impact compared to not using one. Add additional weight to the end of the barrel (suppressor) with a less ridgid stock and your going to see additional shift with suppressor (although 2 ft difference is way extreme, 2"-3" or so is usually the norm with suppressors)

Also, what MOA scope base are you using with your rifle?
Have you zero'd it without the suppressor at 100yds previously with its current configuration?

I've had rifles with so much MOA built into the scope base/rail that the Scopes internal adjustments (top to bottom) didn't have enough moa built in to zero at 100yds but could dial up and hit targets well past 1000.

Might not have to do with your rifle or could be something to look into.

This post should answer this as well as previous questions.

I believe that the issue is with the threads. The scope is mounted to the receiver via talley medium height rings. The issue did not manifest until I mounted the brake. The POI shift with the can mounted is minor compared to the shift with the naked brake.
I think that the guy that cut my threads messed up. This week I plan on rotating the brake 180 degrees and shooting again to see what happens. Worst case scenario is that I cut 1" off of my barrel and rethread it.... hopefully my loads still work....
I could also buy that spiral fluted crazy nice barrel I've been drooling over....

Either way it doesn't look like I will be hunting with a can this year. I was looking forward to it but alas...

Where did you get the barrel threaded? Sounds like that's the culprit.


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I'd think really hard about putting the suppressor on there again, until you get this figured out.

The suppressor will align properly with the muzzle brake, right? But if the bullet isn't running straight through the brake, then it won't be running straight through the suppressor, either. You don't want to get a baffle strike.

I checked the brake and the suppressor and there were no indications of baffle strikes or bullet contact with anything. I believe that the thread dimensions are off. The brake went on with some difficulty as it was extremely tight. Prior to putting the brake on I had a simple aluminum thread protector screwed on (It went on just fine). But I think that with the amount of effort it took to install the brake it is simply too tight and is screwing with the harmonics of the barrel. For now I am going to remove the brake and just shoot it without the can.

FYI: My scope is a huskemaw blue diamond 4-16x sitting in talley medium height rings. I might try some low height rings and see if I can get it to zero. I intentionally had Huskemaw cut my turret for a 100 yard zero instead of 200 because I use this rifle to hunt white tail occasionally and I encounter a lot of shots at 100 yards or less. I'll be traveling to TN for a deer hunting trip soon and it is legal to hunt with suppressors there. I'm sort of bummed I won't be doing that this year.

I am also concerned that the suppressor/brake might alter my ballistics enough that the custom turret for my load will no longer be accurate/effective.

I havent had any of the AAC 51T devices be hard to screw on. So that right there worries me that you said it took for to put it on.

Before you take it off see if you have a rod of some sort (cleaning rod would work) that you can put in the barrel. Try to measure and see if the device is centered or if it is skewed to one side. If it is off to one side you know either the threads are not centered properly on the rifle OR the device threads are skewed.

Once you do take it off inspect the threads closely for any damage. If you happen to have a 5/8-24 bolt somewhere in the house, try screwing the device onto that. If you have a hard ware store you could do it there too. Will give you an idea if the device threads are messed up or not. The threads might look fine but if they werent done straight it could cause issues too.

As for the POI shift....yup its normal but not the extreme you are seeing! With my 762SDN-6 I get a pretty consistent 2-3" shift up and an inch or two left (or right dont remember). The SDN can is the worst POI shift wise I have though.