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 Polymer80 "Glock" Builds 
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JCrabtree wrote:
They shipped me a brand new magwell in black... I took the screw out of the new kit but other than that it's just sitting on my table. If you want it, it's yours for free. I'm fairly certain that it's the same screws as all the other magwells and Zev sells a magwell screw replacement kit for like $6.


:bow:

Thank you. PM sent.

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Sat Apr 14, 2018 10:26 pm
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Thanks to Madpick for posting this thread, I learned a lot.

Thanks, too, to JCrab, for additional info, much appreciated as well :bow:

Thanks, gents!

:cheers2:


Sun Apr 15, 2018 1:36 am
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TINCANBANDIT wrote:
MadPick wrote:
I'm suddenly feeling a little ill . . . .

Image


......and the reason why I have never considered going this route....

Realize that his end product is a custom build. Windowed and RMR cut slide, threaded barrel, aftermarket trigger, extended lower parts and RMR sight.
To do that starting with a factory glock would be the price of the factory glock plus $800 for the upgraded parts...

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Talons wrote:
it's too plastic, even for me.
it's like old, overworked, plastic everywhere old pornwhore amounts of plastic.


Sun Apr 15, 2018 8:39 am
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All right, I measured the trigger pull on mine: 4 lb 14 oz.

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Sun Apr 15, 2018 9:53 am
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I made it to the range today with the Polymer80 build, and put maybe 100 rounds through it.

The good:

- Nothing blew apart, and no parts came off. :bigsmile:
- It's accurate. I held it on a rest with the intent of seeing where it was shooting and adjusting the RMR . . . but the first two shots went right into the bullseye, so no adjustment was needed!
- It's comfortable for me to shoot. The grip feels good. I was a little worried that the aggressive grip texture was going to be too much for my pencil-pushing hands, but it wasn't.

The not-as-good:

- I had a number of cases where it didn't go into battery without a push on the slide. I *think* this is an issue of the barrel fit into the slide. I put some oil on the barrel and kept shooting, and I think it was getting better the more I shot it. I need to research this, and probably keep shooting to break it in.
- A couple of times the RMR started going a little wonky. I thought it might have been because I had the brightness set to auto-adjust and it starting freaking out when I had some smoke come up from the barrel into the sight area. But . . . I'm not sure, more "field research" (aka going to the range) is needed.

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Sun Apr 22, 2018 9:32 pm
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MadPick wrote:
- I had a number of cases where it didn't go into battery without a push on the slide. I *think* this is an issue of the barrel fit into the slide. I put some oil on the barrel and kept shooting, and I think it was getting better the more I shot it. I need to research this, and probably keep shooting to break it in.


On polymer 80 builds, it is not uncommon to have a failure to go into battery within the first 500 rounds or so. This is caused by slightly uneven drillings for either your front or rear rails. If the rails holes aren’t drilled perfectly then you end up putting slight resistance on the slide causing this.

The good news is that the problem fixes itself naturally by shooting it or working the slide by hand repeatedly. Some people will also put some abrasive compound in the slide (like the anti-seize that Glock sends with factory guns or a fine valve lapping compound) to speed up the process. After it’s broken in you shouldn’t have any more issues.


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Sun Apr 22, 2018 9:45 pm
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What I've learned here is to just buy a glock


Mon Apr 23, 2018 6:23 am
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Arisaka wrote:
What I've learned here is to just buy a glock


No argument there, if you just want a gun that works. I’ve enjoyed this as a project, though, no regrets so far.

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Mon Apr 23, 2018 8:00 am
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MadPick wrote:
- A couple of times the RMR started going a little wonky. I thought it might have been because I had the brightness set to auto-adjust and it starting freaking out when I had some smoke come up from the barrel into the sight area. But . . . I'm not sure, more "field research" (aka going to the range) is needed.


Wonky as in changing brightness, or wandering zero? If it's changing brightness, two things are proven to help:
1 - use an RMR sealing plate. Some of these have a dimple in the center to press the battery up against the RMR.
2 - put a small dab of automotive RTV sealant under the battery, basically gluing it to the sealing plate. This prevents battery movement and intermittent connection with the battery contacts. The newest version of the RMR has improved contacts for this reason, but I still use RTV anyway.

JCrabtree wrote:
Some people will also put some abrasive compound in the slide (like the anti-seize that Glock sends with factory guns or a fine valve lapping compound) to speed up the process. After it’s broken in you shouldn’t have any more issues.

Woah. Don't put any abrasive compound in the slide; this isn't a 1911 with lots of frame-slide contact. Also, the copper anti-seize Glock lubes their slides with is not an abrasive, it's a lubricant. That's very very different.


Mon Apr 23, 2018 7:51 pm
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Yondering wrote:
MadPick wrote:
- A couple of times the RMR started going a little wonky. I thought it might have been because I had the brightness set to auto-adjust and it starting freaking out when I had some smoke come up from the barrel into the sight area. But . . . I'm not sure, more "field research" (aka going to the range) is needed.


Wonky as in changing brightness, or wandering zero? If it's changing brightness, two things are proven to help:
1 - use an RMR sealing plate. Some of these have a dimple in the center to press the battery up against the RMR.
2 - put a small dab of automotive RTV sealant under the battery, basically gluing it to the sealing plate. This prevents battery movement and intermittent connection with the battery contacts. The newest version of the RMR has improved contacts for this reason, but I still use RTV anyway.


Wonky as in changing brightness. Thanks for the tips.

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Mon Apr 23, 2018 7:54 pm
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And . . . an RMR RM63 sealing plate has been ordered. thumbsup

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Mon Apr 23, 2018 8:02 pm
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Yondering wrote:
JCrabtree wrote:
Some people will also put some abrasive compound in the slide (like the anti-seize that Glock sends with factory guns or a fine valve lapping compound) to speed up the process. After it’s broken in you shouldn’t have any more issues.

Woah. Don't put any abrasive compound in the slide; this isn't a 1911 with lots of frame-slide contact. Also, the copper anti-seize Glock lubes their slides with is not an abrasive, it's a lubricant. That's very very different.


I didn’t recommend either of those things. I was simply informing him what many people do.

By function and composition, copper Anti-seize contains a mild abrasive. The function of the copper in an Anti-seize is twofold.

1. It prevents galling during break in
2. Copper is used as a sacrificial anode

Anti-seize isn’t recommended for use on sliding surfaces nor are they recommended for use with dynamic loads. So why does Glock install a lubricant that isn’t designed for the application? Because it is a mild abrasive.

If it was simply for storage purposes then the owners manual would not tell you to leave it installed until it is gone naturally.



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Mon Apr 23, 2018 8:28 pm
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What is the abrasive in copper anti seize? It isn't the copper.

And yes, it is specifically designed for sliding surfaces, that's what bolt threads are. Where are you getting your info about this?


Tue Apr 24, 2018 10:36 pm
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Yondering wrote:
What is the abrasive in copper anti seize? It isn't the copper.

And yes, it is specifically designed for sliding surfaces, that's what bolt threads are. Where are you getting your info about this?


I’m getting my information from physics...

A softer material can scratch or damage a harder material. For example, automotive brakes. The brake pad is much softer than the brake rotor however over time the rotor shows wear as well. When you put a soft material against a hard material and apply friction along with movement, this results in surface changes to both materials though the softer material has a relatively greater rate of wear. Additionally, the surface of metal contains a thin oxide film which contains cracks and pores. This oxide film is much less hard than the metal itself so a softer metal can help get rid of this oxide film.

If you want a scientific paper, you can refer to “Wear resistance of gold alloys for coinage” by J.C. Chasten in 1974 (this is actually a summary of a test from 1798). He took coins of different materials and rubbed them against each other and found that both materials wore, while the softest material wore first.

Or maybe a more recent source? Like Loctite themselves? Loctite Nordbak says “Over time, even a softer solid material in flow will eventually abrade and wear the hardest alloys.” (Loctite Nordbak Wear Resistance Coatings).


Regarding the sliding surfaces part, I misspoke. I meant to say that anti-seize is not designed for use on repeatedly sliding surfaces with dynamic loads.


For more information on friction, you can look into Tribology. Specifically, I would recommend “The Tribology Handbook” by Michael J Neale.




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Wed Apr 25, 2018 1:45 am
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I took my Polymer80 out again last weekend, after installing the RMR sealing plate. I still had the same problems. I tried tightening down the screws more and I thought it helped a little, but it didn't solve it and I didn't dare to tight them further.

Over the weekend I emailed Trijicon and asked for advice. When I woke up at 6:30 a.m. on Monday morning, I had a response in my inbox. thumbsup

Trijicon wrote:
Thank you for your patronage of Trijicon® products, and we apologize for any inconvenience. I will first suggest you change the battery (I favor a SONY brand CR2032) checking the contacts. The negative contact under the battery cannot be flattened, and may need to be gently lifted. The positive contact on the side may also need to have some additional bend put into it by carefully prying it inboard. Reinstall the screws torqued to approximately 11 inch-pounds. If the issue persists, please submit the optic to our Service & Returns Dept for inspection/warranty service. Use the following link to obtain return authorization, requesting shipping label http://www.trijicon.com/na_en/support/r ... zation.php.


Well, I don't want to hunt down batteries of a particular brand so I went with the suggestions to gently bend both of the contacts, and reinstalled to the recommended torque.

We'll see....

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Wed May 09, 2018 6:34 pm
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