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 38 special S & W revolver 
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Location: Burien Wash
Joined: Thu Aug 13, 2015
Posts: 27
Real Name: Tom
Hello,
I have a S & W .38 special revolver I bought used. Serial number D20926 10-5 .38 special. I use CCI small pistol primers for hand loads. I find it takes 2 to 3 times of the trigger to fire the cartridge. I have used this same primer in other revolvers and have no issues. The other revolvers are not used. Is there any springs or other parts that need to be replaced? If so, would a gunsmith be able to get the parts fairly easily and perform the job?
Thanks
Aelred


Mon Nov 19, 2018 2:08 pm
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Location: Kent
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I believe there is a hammer tension screw located on the grip frame.
A person can use this to lighten the spring tension on the hammer which will also lighten the trigger pull.
BUT if the hammer tension screw is backed off too much there will not be enough force to pop a primer.
So , have you tried tightening that tension screw ?


Mon Nov 19, 2018 2:25 pm
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Location: Lynden
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There should be a mainspring tension screw on the back-strap- probably under the grip. This can be adjusted in for more hammer force- at the cost of a higher trigger pull..
Many hand loaders use Federal pistol primers as they are known to be the 'softest' to allow lighter triggers.

Edit- Survivor beat me to it by a few seconds ;)


Mon Nov 19, 2018 2:29 pm
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Location: Burien Wash
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Real Name: Tom
survivor wrote:
I believe there is a hammer tension screw located on the grip frame.
A person can use this to lighten the spring tension on the hammer which will also lighten the trigger pull.
BUT if the hammer tension screw is backed off too much there will not be enough force to pop a primer.
So , have you tried tightening that tension screw ?

I didn't know about the hammer tension screw, I'll look at the revolver when I get home and see if there is anything like you suggested.
Thanks


Mon Nov 19, 2018 3:35 pm
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aelred wrote:
survivor wrote:
I believe there is a hammer tension screw located on the grip frame.
A person can use this to lighten the spring tension on the hammer which will also lighten the trigger pull.
BUT if the hammer tension screw is backed off too much there will not be enough force to pop a primer.
So , have you tried tightening that tension screw ?

I didn't know about the hammer tension screw, I'll look at the revolver when I get home and see if there is anything like you suggested.
Thanks


it is on the lower front part of the grip frame, be sure to use the proper hollow ground screw driver

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Mon Nov 19, 2018 6:33 pm
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Location: Burien Wash
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Real Name: Tom
Bxc53 wrote:
There should be a mainspring tension screw on the back-strap- probably under the grip. This can be adjusted in for more hammer force- at the cost of a higher trigger pull..
Many hand loaders use Federal pistol primers as they are known to be the 'softest' to allow lighter triggers.

Edit- Survivor beat me to it by a few seconds ;)

I found the mainspring tension screw. I applied some Kano oil to loosen the screw, but had no luck. I didn't want to risk damaging the screw head. I'll take it to gunsmith to fix. It will be worth the cost. I'll bring some dummy rounds with primers, to see if he is wiling to test the hammer force. I didn't know about the Federal pistol primers. I'll just use the CCI ones. I'll try a couple pack of the Federal ones, see how they work. Appreciate the tips.
Thanks


Tue Nov 20, 2018 12:19 pm
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Its a strain screw to aid in installing the hammer spring, not an adjustment screw.
Supposed to be in all the way all the time. Usually secured in modern times with blue Locktite.
Either the firing pin is worn out, the screw backed out, was shortened (filed), or you need a new hammer spring.

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Tue Nov 20, 2018 12:26 pm
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As mentioned above, if the strain screw is all the way in, it's doing all it can. The problem lies elsewhere.

I have a tuned 686 that would light strike in double action (single action was 100%), gunsmith fix involved a new hammer nose (that little striker on the front of your hammer --- it's not a firing pin). Power Custom makes lengthened hammer noses for S&Ws.

It's usually not grit inside the frame (with rimfires, yes) but a good gunsmith will be able to figure it out.

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Tue Nov 20, 2018 3:25 pm
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Location: Burien Wash
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Real Name: Tom
hkcavalier wrote:
As mentioned above, if the strain screw is all the way in, it's doing all it can. The problem lies elsewhere.

I have a tuned 686 that would light strike in double action (single action was 100%), gunsmith fix involved a new hammer nose (that little striker on the front of your hammer --- it's not a firing pin). Power Custom makes lengthened hammer noses for S&Ws.

It's usually not grit inside the frame (with rimfires, yes) but a good gunsmith will be able to figure it out.

Thanks, for the info. Like was mentioned earlier, that screw was pretty solid. I checked the Power Custom and Wolf Spring sites and the parts are fairly inexpensive. I'll take it to a gunsmith. With the info I have from this thread. See what he says.


Wed Nov 21, 2018 3:48 pm
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