The only tool I used for assembling a lower is pliers with electrical tape on the tips. Well that and the wrench for the buffer tube.
Before you start tapping in that bolt catch retaining pin put some electrical tape on the side of the lower where you're hammering to protect the Finish.
I tap the pin gently with the taped up tips on the pliers to get it started then just squeeze them in.
Shazam, that werks too. I use a roll pin starter punch nowadays.
_________________ "You are either with us...as Americans. Or, You are against us. There is no IN BETWEEN." ???
"We cannot negotiate with those who say, 'What's mine is mine, and what's yours is negotiable.'" JFK
"Those who would give up essential Liberty, to purchase a little temporary Safety, deserve neither Liberty nor Safety”
-Ben Franklin
MadPick wrote:
I don't think you beat your children enough.
Wed Nov 21, 2018 12:17 am
old11bravo
Site Supporter
Location: Everett Joined: Mon Apr 22, 2013 Posts: 3421
Real Name: Ron
I never used to worry about staking the castle nut that secures the buffer tube to the lower receiver until I had an AR pistol tube that backed out on me without me noticing. Had there been a buttstock installed I would've noticed the discrepancy. The pistol tube backed out and the AR pistol failed after the buffer retaining pin and spring popped out and became lodged in the FCG.
So I looked for and found an easy way to stake all of the castle nuts on my AR builds without marring the finish on the end plate or castle nut.
I have two tools that I use. First is a pneumatic center punch. Starrett makes some top of the line models but you can get a Pittsburgh brand pneumatic punch from Harbor Freight tools for pretty cheap. These punches come with sharp pointy tips that help you avoid slippage when choosing and beginning your staking location. The pneumatic function of the punch is actuated by simply pressing down on the tool and allows for better precision than striking with a mallet or hammer.
The second tool I use is this spring loaded nail set/counter punch. I use this after I get an indent started with the pneumatic punch. This tool is spring loaded and carries a little more weight so that I can push a little more material into the notch that I am staking. The tool I use for this is in the link below.
When I'm done staking my castle nut I use a Birchwood Casey Super Black Touch Up pen to cover up any exposed metal that resulted from the staking process.
Bolt catch installation For those of you with access to a drill press. Clamp your receiver into a vice. And press the pin into the receiver. Do not turn on the spindle/drill ! Your only using the machine as a press. . . .
I used my vice as a "press" when I built my first one. Did this on both the bolt catch pin and trigger guard pin.
Sun Dec 30, 2018 12:50 pm
OldsRocket442
Site Supporter
Location: Puyallup, WA Joined: Sun Feb 23, 2014 Posts: 224
Real Name: Richard
For trigger installation a short piece of a 16 (iirc) nail makes a great slave pin. Just cut the nail a little narrower than the trigger itself, install the disconnector, holding it in place with the slave pin. Then put the trigger in the lower and push the slave pin through with the trigger pin. Tapering the ends of the slave pin helps guide it through the other side of the lower.
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 21 guests
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot post attachments in this forum