Hello everyone!

I got most of the things I need for reloading.
Now main question is where to start? )

I think good starting point is a reloading manual like Hornady X or Lyman 50th or Lee.
I have quick starting reloading guide that came with dies, but seems that its good for reference when you know what you are doing and not to learn how to do it.

I have pretty good understanding of the reloading process.

Now complicated part. Projectiles and Powders.

Plated, Jacketed, Hollow point and etc.
Different weight of the bullets.
Different brands of powder, type, burning rates etc etc etc...

I want to learn about reloading to understand what I'm doing and to make it safe for me and others.

I have Glock 21 with 45auto and 10mm auto barrels.

I got 40s&w dies (can do 10mm too) to load propper 10mm for woods.
My main idea is to load cheap plinking ammo (cheaper than store one) that's why i choose progressive press over single stage.

I'm mainly shooting 40s&w through my 10mm barrel its cheapest option from available to me calibers.
Not sure if I will reload 45acp as my intent to use it for carrying and for this ill probably will stick with factory ammo.

Will appreciate any suggestions, tips & tricks, etc etc etc.

P.S. would like to thank WaGuns crowd for being awesome and helpful to new users )

Step one is always to buy a reloading manual and read the how-to section a couple of times. See if you can visit a person who already does a lot of reloading so they can walk you through the process. I would try to find someone who is willing to sell you a single stage so you can get started on that instead of on a progressive - there can be a lot going on and you need to be able to know why, when and how things screw up so you can catch them as they happen - they can be rare but we are working with explosives here.

Welcome to the hobby! I like to think that I shoot so I can reload...

1. Check 2-3 resources for a particular load (ie. cartridge, bullet, and powder combination) and always begin with the min/start load. I load at 0.2gr increments when looking for a accuracy node
2. Sizing, seating, and priming are all "feel" so you need to learn this
3. Get/use a chronograph

You can run a progressive like a single stage press, just do one cartridge from start to finish. Even easier is if you progressive is manually indexed. Also, choose dies that have a separate crimping die. Seating/crimping dies can be a challenge for beginners.


Online Resources:
http://www.hodgdonreloading.com/
https://www.vihtavuori.com/reloading-data/
https://load-data.nosler.com/

This is where you start in risk management. Learn the most frequently occurring errors, and how to prevent them, then do that, every time.
Everything else is managing the variables to achieve the results that YOU want.
Unfortunately, someone else's "perfect recipe" may not optimally fit your needs.
SAFELY experiment with the variables until satisfied.

Thank you all guys for your input!
Great tips!
I got Lee delux dies with factory crimping die.
I will use all 5 stations on my hornady lnl ap.

1. Resize and deprime
-prime
2. Neck flaring
3. Powder drop (hornagy powder measure came with press)
4. Bullet sitting
5. Crimping

Installed dies yesterday and played with it for a bit.
Hate hornady 1/8 turn bushings. Nice to fast swap dies when everyting is adjusted. But its pain in the ass to adjust it as its turning back and forth 1/8 of a turn while you turn dies. And there is no way to hold it with wrench or something (

one thing to consider on LnL AP is the use of a powder through expander to bell the case mouth on the powder charge station. that way you can free up a station for a powder cop die. goes a long ways towards preventing squib or double/over charges.

The absolute best way to start is with an NRA Metallic Cartridge Reloading class. I just did a search at nrainstructors.org within 25 miles of Monroe but didn't find anything.
Next best is to find someone nearby willing to help you with the mechanics.

Beyond that, there is a very good book called the ABCs of Reloading. The Lee book is one that contains recipes for a gazillion different calibers, bullets, and powders; it is a must buy. People like the Lyman book, but it is very spotty in its coverage. The Hornady book is good, but only if you load Hornady bullets. Most powder manufacturers are starting to show their loads online.

I want to set it up this way but seems that it cant be done on lee deluxe dies and hornady powder dispenser (

i'm pretty sure it's possible on the LnL AP. Try the Hornady Powder Through Expanders combined with the quick change powder die and also the PTX powder measure stop (which allows adjustment of the case neck flare). Then you can skip the separate die for case neck flaring and use a powder check die instead.
https://www.hornady.com/reloading/presses/lock-n-load-accessories/case-activated-powder-drop-powder-accessories#!/

On the powder check die there's a couple options:
Hornady Powder Cop
RCBS Lockout Die

Personally using the Lockout Die but I'm sure the Powder Cop also works well. Here's my setup for 38 Special:
1. Resize and deprime
-prime
2. Powder drop (hornady powder measure with powder through expander/quick change powder die/PTX powder measure stop)
3. RCBS lockout die
4. Redding micrometer bullet seater
5. Redding Profile Crimp Die

BTW I second Bo's feedback above. As reloaders we have no real way to directly measure chamber pressure. Instead we look for pressure signs and also have the use of a chronograph. The various reloading manuals publish reloading recipes describing powder charges and muzzle velocities with acceptable chamber pressures. So if you learn to chronograph your loads you can make sure your reloads are within acceptable chamber pressures as long as they are close to the published velocities.

The start of reloading . . . an exciting and terrifying time.

You've got a lot of good advice above. Here's my two cents:

- We have some LNL info in this thread: Hornady LNL AP Lessons, Tips & Tricks.
- You mentioned that you hate the Hornady bushings. I absolutely love them. Yes, sometimes you unscrew the bushing when you're trying to adjust the die, but just make sure the lockring is loose enough and it will be fine. If you add the O-rings to the bushings (see the thread I linked above), it will make the bushings tighter in the press.
- On the subject of lockrings, the O-ring lockrings that came with your Lee dies will work. At some point, consider upgrading to Hornady lockrings, which work a heck of a lot better for everything except the crimp die.
- Yes, you can use the powder-through expander with the Lee dies, because the dies aren't affected; you just add the necessary Hornady parts. You would then remove the Lee expander die, since you won't need it anymore. And yes, this will free up a station for a powder cop/lockout die, which is a good thing. However, I've found the powder-through expander to be a pain in the ass to get right, so I've stopped using mine and I've eliminated the lockout die. That said, I've reloaded a lot of rounds and I'm *very* careful to keep my shit straight, so I feel good about doing that. It may or may not be the right answer for you.
- As already mentioned, just because you have a progressive press doesn't mean that you need to run it full-bore. Run one cartridge at a time through the entire rotation until you are very comfortable, and then do two, and then three, etc. Don't rush it. Keep track of everything that is happening.
- As you crank the press, if something FEELS wrong to you, then something probably IS wrong. Trust your instincts. For example, if you're sizing a case and it feels too easy, stop and look at the case. There's a decent chance that it has a split in it. If you set a bullet on the case and the case it's properly flared, don't just smash the bullet in there -- stop and look at the case, and there's a good chance that it will be split. Trust what you feel.
- If you're cranking out rounds and something goes wrong (die pops out, case doesn't prime, case doesn't go into sizing die, WHATEVER), then just STOP. Assess where you are. Assess what to do. The absolute most important thing is that you do NOT crank the handle, decide something was wrong, and give it another crank to "fix" it. If you do this, you just double-charged a case and there is a decent chance that YOU will soon have a split.

Also, I know this is a topic of conversation in many places, but are you really comfortable shooting .40 out of your 10mm barrel? I know it 'works,' but it means that the cartridge isn't sitting in the chamber properly, and it's only being held in place by the extractor. Rather than shooting .40, I would consider just going to 10mm, and loading lighter loads. Once you buy the brass, the cost to reload 10mm is basically the same as the cost to reload .40.

And of course . . . post up your experiences, problems, etc. and let us follow along!

One thing I would like to add to the rest of the fine advice above:
Start with higher volume powders to avoid double-charging. Work with faster (lower volume) powders as you gain more experience and confidence with your reloading set-up.

You have a LnL honestly I think it is about the perfect progressive press for a new reloader. As mentioned above start ONE operation at a time.
That is the golden ticket on a LnL for a new reloader, you can put one station in at a time, but not lose your adjustment and have to redo it every time you do another batch.
So get the die set one at a time and then reload a few hundred rounds one station at a time, just like you woudl on a single stage. Then when you have really good feel for it you can add stations in one at a time gettign used to how the added functions change the pres stroke and feel..

PLEASE NOTE. As you add stations in it will alter settings on the others, namely the size/deprime die will flex the shellplate and throw the seating die adjustment off. When you start adding dies, just keep an eye on it and tweak as needed.

Many many thanks to all of you guys! I’m so pleased to get so many replies with your suggestions.

I think money is well spent on equipment.
To charge thru expanding die i need hornady part that I ordered already thank you for the lonk GeekWithGuns.

MadPick many thanks for the link on tips and tricks.

I decided to go different way and returned my Lee dies that i purchased initially.

Next week I’ll swing by in Cabrlas to pick up my bow from repair and I’ll grab hornady dies and hornady powder cop. Also will buy wet tumbler and some bullets. Will set everything up and let you guys know how its going.

I have powder at home that I use for shotshells. Its Hodgdon Clays. Saw some loading data for this powder.
What powder would you suggest?

I recently bought my handgun. Shooting 40sw as its cheapest option available. Is it safe? Seems like. Everyone who I spoke about it says that its fine to shoot 40sw thru 10mm barrel. I needed to mod my extractor cause it wasn’t grabbing 40sw or 10mm shell as its designed to grab 45auto. So far had no FTF or FTE with 40sw or 10mm or 45acp. ( may be couple rounds of each over 500 rounds.) I keep an eye on conditions of the chamber in my 10mm barrel so far so good.

Most likely once I start reloading ill just start shooting 45acp and carry it with factory loaded 45acp.

And shoot 10mm for practice to be ready for woods.
Will see how it will go.

Any suggestions on powders? Bullets that will go fine thru glock barrels? Cheap stuff if possible. Ill be ready to spend more money of fancy supplies once master the skill. Thank you all again.

Hornady dies are nice and usually what I use . . . but that Lee factory crimp die is a winner. I would order one, since you'll have an extra station once you're using the powder-through expander.

Hornady will have sitting crimping die (taper). I think it will be possible to “unscrew” crimping function all the way out to just sit it.

Everyone online says that lee factory crimp is a must have. Most likely will incorporate it in my setup. So far hard to say ans i never ever touched reloading stuff except for shotgun shells on my mec 600.