From what you have shown in the picture, your question concerns the OUTER fit of the safety lock, and not the internal part.
As it has been said...does the safety function correctly? To test this, first CLEAR THE PISTOL. Is it safe? Yes? Good.
Now, CLEAR IT AGAIN. (Yes, sounds repetitive...but do it anyway.)
Engage the safety lock. Does it move smoothly? Does it engage positively--as it was mentioned above, you want that definite "click" of the safety engaging.
If it engages correctly, now--MAKING DARNED SURE THE PISTOL IS CLEAR---engage that safety lock, point the pistol in a safe direction and try to fire it. I mean, REALLY pull that trigger. You know about measuring torque, right? Inch pounds, v. foot pounds? Well, you want to apply about 50 ASS-pounds of torque to that trigger.
The hammer should NOT move. Not even a bit.
The safety should NOT move. Not even a hair.
You should feel NO mush or slop in the trigger at all.
If ANY of those conditions exist in ANY degree, STOP. Do NOT load the pistol. Take it to a competent gunsmith (I think one's posting in this thread...hint, hint...
)
If the steps above check out good, then go to the next step. This is to disengage the safety, with the pistol pointed in a safe direction. The hammer should NOT move and DARNED sure shouldn't drop. The safety should disengage smoothly and positively. Now, pull your trigger. The hammer should drop with a clean trigger break.
I'm totally out of gunsmithing now, except for myself...but I've built 1911's a few times. The fitment of the safety lock to the slide is something else, and takes some simple contouring and refinishing. For that less-than-a-hairline flawless fit, take it to a good gunsmith (I wonder who????
) and they can do it right.