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 The WeenieWagun... 
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dan360 wrote:
TechnoWeenie wrote:
dan360 wrote:
I've seen the tube thing done before. One caveat is unless you drill little holes in it, like a magazine, or are really, really, good at record keeping, it's hard to always remember how much of what you have until you're down to a can or two left. Not always a bad thing, but building an RV like this opposed to just rockin' a class C, and knowing a little about your personality, I'd think you'd like to have a good handle on your stockpile of inventory just at a glance.

I've seen this method utilized a lot in backcountry RVs and "expeditionary" rigs. Works well, can be morphed into whatever you'd like based on construction style and space utilization.

Also don't underestimate the non-slip tool box drawer liners for holding rather heavy things in place. I've driven thousands upon thousands of miles pulling large TTs and driving class A/B/C motorhomes with things like KitchenAid mixers held in only by their own gravity, some non-slip liner, and those cheap little metal hooks you can buy @ a craft store.


I like that design.

I'd have to see if someone makes it inexpensively.. PVC just requires glue and a hand saw... Wood requires a little more.


Wood is free everywhere. Homeless Despot type stores throw pieces away daily that would work well.


It's the sawing and screwing and stiff that's the issue.

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That's quite the nut sack you have there!


Sun Nov 25, 2018 2:40 am
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Last edited by dan360 on Sat Jan 19, 2019 1:40 pm, edited 1 time in total.



Sun Nov 25, 2018 3:12 am
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TechnoWeenie wrote:
I have a single burner propane......stove(?)

I made a 'stove' by taking the side burner off of a large BBQ, and building a countertop for it.

Guaranteed the plumbing is as good as or better than those stoves they put in RVs. I inspected both. Both are built the same, and operate the same. It is just as safe, and doesn't require open windows, any more than the stove they built for an RV. People freak too much about that kind of stuff. If you would cook with a natural gas stove or a propane stove, in the same space, you can cook with this. It's the exact same thing, Just doesn't have some factory stamp on it for the purpose.

You get a bigger burner and flame. Takes half an hour, to get a pot of water boiling on an RV stove. Takes about ten minutes or less on the 'stove' I built. A typical RV unit has either three or four burners. Just two of those burners would be burning more propane than this one burner. And running just one, less efficient burner on the RV, for three times as long, to get that pan of water boiling, uses more propane, and creates more CO2

Take the entire metal 'shelf' as a unit, and build the countertop to suit. With the metal unit for the 'stove' sitting a little proud of the countertop.

Mine, in fact was safer than an RV unit. The biggest danger with these things is leaks. With this, the tank is secured under the countertop. I turn the tank itself off, when done cooking, and let the burner burn itself out. No chance of a leak anywhere, as long as the tank itself is safe. With an RV unit, if you don't build it in like I did, you'd have to go outside to turn off the tank, every time. (And turn it on, next time.)

If you are scared of that, then you have no business having any propane anything whatever in an RV, Because the tank is the safest part of all of it. As long as you are using soapy water to make sure you get good connections... Then do the same to all connections every time you change it, (Every connection is right out in the open.), to be sure you didn't knock any loose... Yer gudtogo.

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Sun Nov 25, 2018 7:56 am
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Another thing to think about would be keeping an eye on Craigslist for a camper someone is getting rid of. I have seen several over the years for free. It would have everything you need.


Sun Nov 25, 2018 8:24 am
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TechnoWeenie wrote:
. $800 in GC2s should get me 450Ah+ @24v



If weight is not an issue for you then rather than fart around with a bunch of GC-2's just put in a couple of L-16's for 12V or 4 for 24 v. L16's will outlast 2-3 GC-2's and may, if you shop around, cost about the same as all the GC-2's you suggested.

As for Solar, while it may be only 30% effective it works from an hour or two after sunrise to about the same before sunset. Use an MPPT solar controller, connect panels in series for the higher voltage an MPPT uses, and let the solar work all day. Even if the output is low, the fact it is working all day with varying loads makes up for a lot of inefficiency.

I use a "Suitcase" unit consisting of two 80W panels that I can orient for most efficient azimuth and tilt. Can place panels in the sun even if I choose to camp in the shade with my trailer. Controller is mounted in an electrical compartment (along with distribution buses, Inverter, and 120V Converter/Charger. A piece of surplus 10/4 SO cord with conductors "paired" so I effectively have only two makes the connection from solar panels to controller with negligible voltage drop (less than .5%). This setup can replace 35 amp hours charge in 6 hours or so on a fall day. The MPPT controller doesn't waste any output by just shutting off power when the battery voltage reaches the voltage set for a particular charge mode as PWM's do. I get a steady 8-10 amp charge rate with full sun and 5-6 amp when partially overcast.

For battery monitoring and Solar charge controller I use both a Victron 712 and a Victron 75/15 Smart MPPT . Both "network" and feed necessary information back and forth like voltages, currents, battery temperature, etc. This information in turn is available to me on my smart phone via bluetooth. No need to run lots of wires to monitors, etc. I can set charge profiles, warning levels, set a relay to start my generator at a given SoC and shut same off when fully charged if desired.

On wire size, low voltage systems benefit greatly from larger wire sizes. Remember that transmission of DC current is far less efficient than transmitting AC. Bigger wires and even bigger when running any distance. I am using a #4 Awg wire from converter to battery bank connection, to carry a max of 60 amp, and it's less than 20' in total length Voltages at each end of wire when at full current read exactly the same.

Ideally your battery charger would be a multi-stage. First stage would be "boost" and charge voltage would be 14.4-14.6 volts. When battery is 80-90% charged it would then switch to the Absorbsion phase and voltage would drop to around 13.6. When battery is fully charged the charger would then switch to float voltage which is usually around 13.2. These voltages can vary by charger manufacturer and battery manufacturer's spec so it's best to match the charger to the battery type as close as possible. A good charger today will also have a 4th stage. After the battery has sat for a given period of time the charger will switch to a de-sulfation/equalization stage and boost output voltage to as much as 16 volts for a short period of time. This helps keep the hard sulfates formed when batteries are left in a discharged (or even semi discharged while in use) state from building up. Basically a controlled over-charge state is created to reverse sulfation. Also, large Deep Cycle Flooded Lead Acid batteries have a tendency to have their electrolyte stratify with the heavier sulfuric acid settling to the bottom. Equalization occurs during this last cycle.

Last item. A battery charger for a bank of deep cycle batteries should not only have the 4 stage feature, but it should also be rated for a minimum of 25% of the total amp hour capacity of the battery bank it's charging. Anything smaller won't prevent sulfation or provide equalization.

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Sun Nov 25, 2018 10:00 am
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TechnoWeenie wrote:
dan360 wrote:
TechnoWeenie wrote:
dan360 wrote:
I've seen the tube thing done before. One caveat is unless you drill little holes in it, like a magazine, or are really, really, good at record keeping, it's hard to always remember how much of what you have until you're down to a can or two left. Not always a bad thing, but building an RV like this opposed to just rockin' a class C, and knowing a little about your personality, I'd think you'd like to have a good handle on your stockpile of inventory just at a glance.

I've seen this method utilized a lot in backcountry RVs and "expeditionary" rigs. Works well, can be morphed into whatever you'd like based on construction style and space utilization.

Also don't underestimate the non-slip tool box drawer liners for holding rather heavy things in place. I've driven thousands upon thousands of miles pulling large TTs and driving class A/B/C motorhomes with things like KitchenAid mixers held in only by their own gravity, some non-slip liner, and those cheap little metal hooks you can buy @ a craft store.


I like that design.

I'd have to see if someone makes it inexpensively.. PVC just requires glue and a hand saw... Wood requires a little more.


Wood is free everywhere. Homeless Despot type stores throw pieces away daily that would work well.


It's the sawing and screwing and stiff that's the issue.


I can help with that part


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Sun Nov 25, 2018 11:36 am
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I got some 15 and 30 gallon drums that I'm setting up as grey water tanks for 5$ ea. Figure some aluminum blocks and metal tie straps to keep it in place.... along with a couple plumbing fittings.... Should be less than $100 for everything..Paint them to limit UV exposure to make them last longer and less susceptible to cracking... Then I'll have a pot to piss in! lol.

Next, is electrical...

I made up my mind to go with a 24V battery bank so I could both charge and jump the auxiliary battery system to the starting system.

But deciding which route to go for charging has me walking myself in circles, because I have 12V devices, and you can't just tap off a set of batteries unless you want an imbalance...

I thought about a set of 12V chargers to charge each set of 2 6V batteries.... that would solve the balance issues.... But that brings up other issues.

I need/want to be able to charge from solar/wind, truck alternator, and 120V....

Now, there are RV systems for 12V and 24V that do exactly that, but they're stupid expensive and are not high output.

I can't hook the front alternator/batteries to a charge controller because the charge controllers available are relatively low amperage... and the DC to DC chargers I've found are likewise low amperage and expensive.

Other issues with pulling 12V off of a 24V bank, is, if there isn't a charge voltage ie it's at night so no solar, I could deplete one 12V side and end up with 18v (as an example)b instead of 24, which would damage the LED lights I plan to use (rather, the dimmers)...


I could go with a 24->12V converter, which solves most problems (virtually all) but getting one with the current capability I need is near impossible..and they draw power even when nothing is turned on/being used, which creates a parasitic load....

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DGM33 wrote:
That's quite the nut sack you have there!


Sat Jan 12, 2019 5:45 pm
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I can help you with the woodwork if you choose to go that route. I have all the tools, and that thing will be a snap to build


Sat Jan 12, 2019 7:58 pm
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Arisaka wrote:
I can help you with the woodwork if you choose to go that route. I have all the tools, and that thing will be a snap to build


A couple people have offered, and I thank you all... I may take you up on that offer but it's a ways down the road.

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DGM33 wrote:
That's quite the nut sack you have there!


Sat Jan 12, 2019 8:20 pm
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Last edited by dan360 on Sat Jan 19, 2019 11:50 am, edited 1 time in total.



Sat Jan 12, 2019 11:10 pm
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dan360 wrote:
Get in touch with Outback Power Systems up in Arlington. Your truck and situation is PR gold for them, especially since prepping and minimalist RV living/boondocking is coming back into vogue again.

http://www.outbackpower.com

http://www.outbackpower.com/applications/mobile

Well that's a pretty amazing idea right there! Your platform and urban minimalist RV living would be a perfect match for products like these. Why not?

You have the wiring experience. If you took the time to document the process well it could be great exposure for them and free product for you. Damn good idea Dan!

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Sat Jan 12, 2019 11:17 pm
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https://www.businessinsider.com.au/bill ... rms-2019-1

maybe a toilet for you.

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Mon Jan 14, 2019 5:35 am
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I've never dealt with a 24v system, most of the boats I work on use a bank of 12v house batteries (sometimes 2 6v in series, sometimes 12v in parallel) and a separate 12v starting battery. Usually the alternator charges the house batteries and the starting battery charges off of those. The alternator/regulator is set up for the chemistry of the house batteries. It's typical to have AGM house batteries and a standard lead/acid motorcycle battery for the starter. Even though it's a diesel it's small compared to automotive diesels and a small MC battery is enough to kick it over

If you don't have too many 12v devices maybe a single 12 battery with a charge controller will be enough? It sounds like you need to make you're main bank 12v with the option to send power to the 24v system in an emergency(?) If that's the case then some disconnects and combiners might work

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Mon Jan 14, 2019 9:58 pm
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