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 1926 Model TT Restoration: Update 38 - Tuning 
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Arisaka wrote:
MadPick wrote:
Wow. Great documentation.

Regarding the master battery disconnect, do you jus turn it off every time you turn the car off?

That would suck, having to reprogram all of your radio stations every time you drive.

Radio, climate control, heated seats, cruise control, power windows and nav are all unaffected.

:thumbsup2: That's my kind of vehicle!

There is nothing as satisfying in working on an old classic than completing a full rewiring job and doing it right.
Catching up on this most excellent project.

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Wed May 08, 2019 8:41 am
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I have figured out the downside to this thread.

It's going to make most other DIY posts look like small timers! :cussing:

Arisaka wrote:
MadPick wrote:
I've changed my mind about retiring in the future. Seems like too damn much work.

Yeah, but the commute is good and my boss is cute.


Retirement suits me, although I have two bosses. The 5 year old is by far the most demanding.
After the house project is finished, we're going to spend buku time fishing, hunting, and hopefully some DIY that is still worthy to post in here after this epic example of mad skills.

Arisaka, I particularly like the parts that you manufactured yourself. Fantastic sir. :bow:

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"I like causing trouble, but only if I'm aware of it. To think I created a problem by accident was disappointing." Traut
"If you wanna be close to the big town you’re gonna have to eat shit sammiches a lot." Dan360
"The greatest challenge that I faced was peeling back the layers of my own bias"
"There are violent crazy murderous people in our society! We need to give up all of our means of self-protection IMMEDIATELY!"


Wed May 08, 2019 9:07 am
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PMB wrote:
I have figured out the downside to this thread.

It's going to make most other DIY posts look like small timers! :cussing:

Arisaka wrote:
MadPick wrote:
I've changed my mind about retiring in the future. Seems like too damn much work.

Yeah, but the commute is good and my boss is cute.


Retirement suits me, although I have two bosses. The 5 year old is by far the most demanding.
After the house project is finished, we're going to spend buku time fishing, hunting, and hopefully some DIY that is still worthy to post in here after this epic example of mad skills.

Arisaka, I particularly like the parts that you manufactured yourself. Fantastic sir. :bow:

Thank you sir! Just came in for lunch. Battling with the master cylinder installation and bleeding today.


Wed May 08, 2019 11:57 am
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This hydraulic brake kit is taking a lot of time to install. It needs countless little modifications here and there to fit correctly. Today I installed the brake pads in the calipers and fine tuned the caliper centering. It was harder than it sounds, and required many removals of the rear wheels

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Then I set about to adjust the emergency brakes. They are actuated by pulling back this lever on the drivers side of the cab

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Here is the underside of that lever

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This linkage activates the passenger side brake rod

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Here is the front end of the brake rod, where the adjustment takes place.

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With the rear axle off the floor, I found that the original adjustment was way off, and the brakes were not engaging. I threaded the adjustment down as far as it would go, but still no engagement. Ended up pulling both rods out and cutting additional threads on both to get more adjustment

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Took about an additional inch of threads before the emergency brakes would lock up tight, but not drag when released. Here is the other end of one of the rods, where it attaches to the arm that cams out the emergency brake shoes. Job done

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Then it was time for the master cylinder and remote reservoir. This is the bracket for the master cylinder

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It bolts on to the rear of the transmission with two 3/8 x 24 bolts. However, the model T is actually 3/8 x 24ish. Had to run a tap in one of the holes to fix that issue, which was a pain due to limited access. The other mounting hole was broke, and a nut and washer was used instead. The washer was trimmed for necessary clearance.

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I’m betting my dad did this. He was a master of making things work with few resources. The factory fix for this problem is to replace the upper hogshead, which is a big job. Dad found another way and it worked. So I reinstalled Dad’s fix

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Master cylinder goes in next. Here is the master cylinder

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Here it is installed in its bracket

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View from underneath

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Looking at the installation, it was clear that I had a clearance problem between the top of the master cylinder and the underside of the floorboards. I had to raise up the floorboards up a bit to clear the top of master cylinder. Just shimmed them up 0.1” with some scrap metal

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Last job for today was to mount the remote reservoir. Picked a location on the firewall that was convenient, and attached it with some self tapping bolts

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Next job is to run all the brake lines


Thu May 09, 2019 4:15 pm
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Still slogging away at the hydraulic brakes in between pulling weeds and mowing the lawn. Today I ran all the the hydraulic lines. First up is the non-pressurized 3/8” line from the remote reservoir to the master cylinder. Here is the line connecting to the reservoir on the firewall

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Here is the other end of that line connecting to the master cylinder

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From the rear of the master cylinder, a short pressurized line runs rearwards. Here is that line

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The end with the two prongs screws into the master cylinder. Those prongs are a pressure switch that actuates my brake lights. A much better switch than the mechanical switch that was there before. Here is the old brake light switch, which was a hit or miss proposition

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Back to the hydraulics, here is the hose threaded into the master cylinder

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The other end of the hose is a T-fitting that sends fluid to both brake calipers

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It is clamped onto the torque tube, which is a non-moving housing over the drive shaft

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From there, 1/8” steel brake lines are hand bent and run between the T-fitting and the calipers

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Next up is bleeding the system


Mon May 13, 2019 3:55 pm
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Wow, excellent work!

Nice clean install

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Mon May 13, 2019 6:24 pm
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I'm a big fan! Big fan! :thumbsup2:

I love "original", but even more than original I like "mightily improved."
Tough to argue against a good brake system improvement.

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"If you wanna be close to the big town you’re gonna have to eat shit sammiches a lot." Dan360
"The greatest challenge that I faced was peeling back the layers of my own bias"
"There are violent crazy murderous people in our society! We need to give up all of our means of self-protection IMMEDIATELY!"


Mon May 13, 2019 8:17 pm
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Thank you guys! The last major part arrived today. A new radiator, and it is pretty! Figure I’m about a week or two from cranking her up!


Mon May 13, 2019 8:43 pm
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How do you figure that will work clamped to the torque tube? Doesn't the torque tube move in conjunction with the differential? You could get away with flex lines but I see steel lines.


Wed May 15, 2019 7:41 pm
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Nope, torque tube doesn’t move. On a model T, the torque tube is a steel tube that surrounds the drive shaft. The drive shaft spins. The torque tube is stationary. More of a driveshaft housing. But it’s called a torque tube


Wed May 15, 2019 7:51 pm
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Big day today. Finished up the hydraulic brake installation by pressure bleeding the lines. It has a good pedal feel up on blocks. We will see how the brakes work when the truck is rolling

My new radiator came and I installed it today. This is the last major task, at least that I know of.

There are lots of little parts that bolt on the radiator. Here they are

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In addition to the radiator, there is the radiator support rod, the shell, the crank assembly and the apron. My apron was pretty well gone. Here is the old apron and it’s two mounting tabs

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My hood support rod was broken off at the end that threads onto the radiator

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The shell was decent and just took a little body work and paint. Crank was good, because you can’t really hurt those things.

The radiator was new, and well protected by foam packing

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I did have to run a tap in the NPT threads at the inlet to get the petcock to thread in

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First step in mounting the radiator is installing the mounting studs in the frame

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Then comes the apron and crank

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As I installed the old apron it became clear that the mounting tabs were too rusted out to hold, so I made a trip to my buddy’s house for another apron and also a replacement radiator support rod. Here is the new apron all bolted on

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After the apron you install another spring over the mounting stud, followed by the inner thimble. The inner thimbles are on top in the pic below, and the outer thimbles and nuts beneath

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The radiator mount then slides over the inner thimbles. Then comes the shell. Then the outer thimble and nut.

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Next up is the radiator support rod. It threads into the radiator and then into the firewall, giving the radiator fore and aft support

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Then the hood goes on, and the radiator cap

Here are some views of the radiator installation

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I still have some wiring to complete, radiator hoses to install, general nutting and bolting, topping off fluids and checking for leaks. But I’m just about ready to turn the key and stomp on the starter switch.


Fri May 17, 2019 1:20 pm
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That looks incredible

Knowing how much work you've put into it makes it even more impressive

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Fri May 17, 2019 2:09 pm
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RocketScott wrote:
That looks incredible

Knowing how much work you've put into it makes it even more impressive

I have you on my list for a ride around town Scott! Thank you for all your help on this old truck!

Any WaGunners want a ride, let me know!


Fri May 17, 2019 5:29 pm
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Arisaka wrote:
Any WaGunners want a ride, let me know!


:meme:

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Leave it cleaner than you found it.


Fri May 17, 2019 7:13 pm
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MadPick wrote:
Arisaka wrote:
Any WaGunners want a ride, let me know!


:meme:

Steve is In!


Fri May 17, 2019 7:32 pm
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