Coating 80% lower after completion?

[lamrith]

What can be done or are the legalities of having a 80% lower cera/dura/anodized by someone else after it has been machined into 100% complete lower?

[B.Random]

Hurry up and do it before i594 gets voted in by the idiots and there's no problem as long as your coating guy isn't a felon :)

[mash man]

you are good to go. i had mine done, you are not giving/selling it would be no diff. if you were to go shooting with someone and they shoot it

[MadPick]

Hurry up and do it before i594 gets voted in by the idiots and there's no problem as long as your coating guy isn't a felon :)

This.

[lamrith]

So no special concerns given is is a now complete lower with no SN and no way to log it?

Sorry, just trying to cover my ass as don't want to get myself OR someone I ask to coat the lower in hot water. Not worth losing gun rights just to have something coated black after milling versus before...

[mash man]

So no special concerns given is is a now complete lower with no SN and no way to log it?

Sorry, just trying to cover my ass as don't want to get myself OR someone I ask to coat the lower in hot water. Not worth losing gun rights just to have something coated black after milling versus before...

check to make sure it will fit on an upper first... trust me

[MadPick]

^ yeah. Maybe a couple of uppers.

[twolane]

I've heard an interesting theory before... Coat your 80 first. Then mill. Leave the pockets raw. The thought is it's easier to prove you made the lower if it's "unfinished" vs a more pro looking job of coating after milling.

[WaJim]

Sharpie????? they come in all colors now.

Seriously though Ive machined an 80% and left it in the raw...kind of looks cool I think.

twolane.....My Machining in no way would be mistaken for anything done by a factory. When you swap the mill guides they're not exact so the trigger well has different layers and my Drill n Mill doesn't like to take a full plunge cut and move the ways. I have to go about 40 thousandths at a time.

My point is do the work ...make sure it works then Cerakote or apply whatever finish.

I'd call Brad at Brads Guns and Ammo. He deals in 80%'s he could answer your question about transfer/shipping a done lower with no ser.# Hes local...Lake Tapps....http://www.bradsguns.com/category-s/1818.htm

[lamrith]

Brad has a few lowers left since you mention it.

I didn't think to ask him about the logistics of coating. /facepalm

Last edited by lamrith on Fri Oct 10, 2014 4:25 am, edited 1 time in total.

[powder]

I"m into my cerakote process about 1k. That's a lot if you're only doing a couple lowers, but i plan to do a lot more than that in the coming years so i spent some money.

[lamrith]

Didn't make it before 594, so guess I need a real shop setup for firearms to do it now. So anyone know of a place down in pierce county that does anodizing/Coating after an 80% has been milled out? I would rather have it coated in and out to protect the interior post milling.
I have had one place tell me they can't touch them at all after they are machined out to 100%, and they are a firearms coating place?

Not sure that I want Cera, just a basic durable flat black finish like any std lower you buy off the shelf. I have watched Duracoat stuff on the net and the finish quality did not seem there with DIY applications.

[Unicorn]

You could try Madpick?
Southridge Arms in Orting.
DIY with the Duracote or the air cured Ceratcote.
Aluminahyde II from Brownells, or the epoxy based paint from VHT for suspensions.

If you feel like playing with some acid you can anodize at home. It won't be a hard type 3 though, just the basic softer kind. Type 1? Then finish with RIT dye before sealing it with cold water. If you do a search you can find a few ways to do it...
http://www.bryanpryor.com/anodizing/
http://astro.neutral.org/anodise.shtml
http://www.ehow.com/how_6825455_diy-ano ... minum.html

[MadPick]

You could try Madpick?

You could . . . but the closest I come to this stuff is using a cold blue pen.

[lamrith]

You could try Madpick?
Southridge Arms in Orting.
DIY with the Duracote or the air cured Ceratcote.
Aluminahyde II from Brownells, or the epoxy based paint from VHT for suspensions.

If you feel like playing with some acid you can anodize at home. It won't be a hard type 3 though, just the basic softer kind. Type 1? Then finish with RIT dye before sealing it with cold water. If you do a search you can find a few ways to do it...
http://www.bryanpryor.com/anodizing/
http://astro.neutral.org/anodise.shtml
http://www.ehow.com/how_6825455_diy-ano ... minum.html

I had planned to use Southridge but he said no. He said that since it is a 80% that has been milled to 100% if he coats he is now part of Mfg? That did not make any sense to me as he is not doing any of the conversion to 100%, just coating, no different than TA or Madpick coating an already complete firearm?

Thanks for the other ideas, I will keep looking around. the DIY Dura I saw was very uneven coverage, but I will keep looking.