Pretty much. Tire had to flex to work well off road.

As the saying goes, you'll ask 10 different people and get 11 different answers.

All your Kale chips and Clif bars.

That kind of explains why I read about dudes letting air out when they are using Toyo Open Country MT on F-150's.

When I bought my Revos for my 4runner, they ordered E load rated tires instead of the C rated ones --- offered to let me have the higher rated ones at the lower price - I said NO WAY.... I didn't need the extra rating and I wasn't gonna put up with the harsher ride. I haven't seen anyone mention it yet, but you do know that the higher load ratings come with a higher pressure leading to harsher ride (when not loaded) and poor off road traction.... I've also heard that the higher load tires don't like to be under inflated due to too much sidewall flex that tends to heat the tires and degrade the plys.

https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech ... ?techid=55

Be honest about what kind of loads you are gonna haul, and get the proper rating. Knowing that you can haul 3x more than you ever will doesn't do you any good as you are bouncing down a fire road. It also puts alot more strain on the suspension since there is no give in the sidewalls.

I run my tires ~30 psi --- its amazing how bad it rides at 35 psi - feel every crack and rock.... I can't imagine what it would be like at 40-60 psi.

No, I didn't know any of that. Thanks for telling me.

Too low a pressure on radials and the heat of higher speeds will and can often separate the cap ply. Then you get weird carcass failures.

I'm wanting to get some AT tires that are good and don't cost a mortgage payment. I don't remember what I had on the Chevy before I bought the General Grabber AT tires but, the Generals could be heard easier and I didn't care. Why not just get those? Because I'm doing my diligence while I'm not having to drive for a few more days and consider that I've never had a 4x4 drive truck or a truck of this size. I'm figuring there's more to consider. I don't want big huge MT tires but, I wouldn't mind mind some 6ply MT tires for the fall or winter seasons driving in snow if I have the opportunity to hunt in snow covered areas.

My truck has a GVWR of 7700 pounds and that stock tires are 114T. I don't know if 116S is truly an upgrade or a necessity when buying AT tires. I also don't want to buy too much tire and surely stay far away from something less than stock.

You fit the tire load rating to the vehicle weight you are putting them on.

My HD E tires would ride like shit on a 4,000 pound truck.
And the light C rated tires would wear out in a few months putting them on my 7500+ pound diesel 2500HD, if they didn't just fall apart.

Edit: Also check your front clearance before going bigger.
I went up 2-3 sizes in my Silverado, any more need a lift kit.
Had to pull the fender plastic in with cable ties and raise the front torsion bar suspension up 2 full turns.
Clearance off the front bumper is about 1/4" when turning.

Don't fret the ratings too much --- stick close to what the manufacturer says on the door jam - don't go more than one letter up from it. In reality, you will flatten your springs long before you exceed the load capacity of the tires. My thoughts are go with an aggressive AT or a milder MT - they will have better wet traction over its life plus better snow/ice traction. Tire wear is all dependent on your driving style - hard cornering, braking, burnouts... If you get more than 35k out of truck tires while STILL having decent traction - you've won. Most of the reviews base traction assessments on new tires --- its the last half of the life thats the most important... Traction is always good with new tires.

I wasnt recommending a Load E tire just stating that the BFGs failed twice on my diesel Dodge while I always kept them between 70-80 psi as recommended on the sidewall.

They were never ran underinflated for comfort.

So you pick a tire that's rates for just a bit more than you weigh is your load?

Don't overload your brain.
Engineers, along with tons of testing have given us pretty much the perfect balance on most things we buy.
They've already done the testing. Most of the time if "we" try to improve on something that's been studied and verified by those in the know, "we" come out on the short end, complaining on how this or that didn't work the way "we" wanted it to.

i.e. My brother bought a Toyota Tacoma 4x4. Had a canopy on it. He sold it two years later. Why? Because he told me in two years, he used the bed twice! The rest of the time it was empty.
He realized he didn't "need" a truck.
(OK, this story came up a little short for example... )

IMO, don't overbuy something that you: don't need, won't use, isn't right for your intended purpose.

My brain is way overloaded. Yesterday I couldn't remember my address for a couple hours. I had to look it up. Not even kidding.

So basically just get some 114T or thicker, not 120 or 123, AT or MT and call it good. That's what I'm understanding.

Yep - the tire LCC ratings already have a safety margin built into the rating - you don't need to double up the margin 'just to be safe'.... The 7700# GVWR is the MAX weight of the truck when fully loaded - you won't be at that weight very often - and when you are, it will handle like a pig no matter what tire you have on there.
D and E ratings are meant for 3/4 and 1 tons.